Takayuki Kijima, the designer of the atelier-made hat brand <KIJIMA TAKAYUKI>, has been making hats for over 30 years. He pursues designs that will be loved for many years, even as they change with the times, rather than just following trends, while his sincere approach to the production process of his creations has remained unchanged. In this interview, his third in approximately three years, we visited the brand's atelier for the first time and spoke with him about his thoughts on craftsmanship, the hat-making process, the new items in the 2020 Autumn/Winter collection, and his future prospects.

I. Third interview in approximately three years

--This is your third interview with ISETAN MEN'S net. First of all, could you tell us again what got you involved in hat making?

I've been interested in fashion since I was little. I've always actively incorporated items and styles that caught my eye, but I never really stuck to one thing. You could say I was easily influenced by trends (laughs). When it comes to clothes, you have to narrow it down to just one thing. I knew that wasn't for me. I thought the real appeal of fashion was being able to change into various styles like street style, punk style, club style, and so on. So I thought that hats might allow for a lot of expression. But once I jumped into the world of hats, it wasn't easy... That's when I became engrossed in it, or rather, I got hooked on making hats.


—I understand you studied at the atelier of Akio Hirata, a modist who is an indispensable figure when discussing Japanese hats.

Mr. Akio Hirata studied haute couture hat making in France, and working there was a huge benefit for me. For example, when shaping felt, we use a kettle, which has the advantage of allowing us to apply steam more precisely than the steamers used in hat manufacturing. Mr. Hirata's workshop also used the same kettle from a hardware store in Kappabashi. Learning haute couture techniques means that you can create shapes that suit the customer's preferences, so the variety of things you can make expands.

II. How one hat is made

--At the atelier, you showed us the typical steps involved in making a felt hat.

1. Mold making

First, a design drawing is created. If a wooden mold is applicable, it is used. If a wooden mold is not applicable, a mold is made using a special 100% paper sheet that can be stretched both vertically and horizontally. For haute couture, the mold is finely adjusted to fit the individual's head shape. Once the mold is made, it is coated and hardened with a special white resin.

2. Inserting the felt into the mold

Steam is applied to the felt, which has already been shaped into a hat, and then it is molded to fit the shape. The hat is then shaped by hand, adjusting the pressure to avoid damaging the fabric. At Kijima Takayuki, a kettle with a narrow spout is used as a boiler.

3. Attaching the ribbon to the inside

If the material is leather, a leather loop is made to fit the inner circumference of the hat. Then, the loop is sewn to the inside of the hat. By dropping the needle into the edge, a 2-3mm gap is created. This ensures that the hat fits snugly on the head when worn. Depending on the design, grosgrain ribbon may be used.

4. Attaching the ribbon to the outside

The ribbon is wrapped around the outer edge. Kijima Takayuki has opted for a fuller finish to suit current fashion trends. The knot actually features upward-facing pleats, a unique detail that sets it apart from others.

III. Styling suggestions for Fall/Winter 2020 products

—Visiting your atelier for the first time, I was once again struck by the importance of handcrafted work and the passion put into each step of the process. These 25 pieces from the meticulously crafted Fall/Winter 2020 collection will be available at Men's Creators and the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store. Of the five pieces we have carefully selected from this collection, what kind of styling would you recommend incorporating them into your fashion?

Based on the information you provide, our men's creators team will select items that closely match your image and propose a coordinated outfit.

1. Leather patchwork hat

This hat is inspired by the kind of hats you might find in a vintage clothing store, but I don't want you to wear it in a typical way. I recommend a more unconventional pairing, such as wearing it with a suit. Leather shoes would be a bit too much, so sneakers would be a better choice for footwear.

― Styling by ISETAN MEN'S CREATORS ―

2. Sheep suede cap

It features a long, wide, downward-curving brim. It's what you might call "dorky-cool," and we hope you'll enjoy its deliberately unrefined form. Made with high-quality sheep suede, it can also be dressed up. It's an item that's easy to match with any style.

― Styling by ISETAN MEN'S CREATORS ―

3. Rabbit fur felt hat

A bucket hat with a short brim is a classic style. It evokes the image of 1960s British ska or rocksteady. Even when paired with styles from that era, it can still look modern.

― Styling by ISETAN MEN'S CREATORS ―

4. Pilot cap with fur trim

While it's based on the classic pilot cap design, it's been given a shallower fit, similar to a jet cap, making it suitable for everyday wear in the city. Therefore, I think it would be interesting to use it as a contrasting element in skater fashion.

― Styling by ISETAN MEN'S CREATORS ―

5. Splatter-painted mountain hat

The rabbit fur felt is treated with a special solvent to make it stiff, allowing you to mold it into your desired shape. Its oversized design makes it flattering for everyone. The space-age splatter paint adds a stylish accent.

― Styling by ISETAN MEN'S CREATORS ―

IV. The reason why it continues to be loved for many years, even as it changes with the times.

-- I think Kijima Takayuki is now one of Japan's leading hat brands. I'm also impressed by their sense of balance in incorporating trends at any given time.

I believe that hats should be designs that truly come alive within a styling. That's why I change the silhouette and details to match the current trends. The same goes for the colors and materials I use.


—Where do you get your inspiration from?

This has been the case since the company was founded, but Kijima Takayuki hats are washable. The reason for this is that, for example, when wearing vintage clothing, it looks odd if the hat is stiff and new. So I wanted something that was soft and worn, and I even tried washing one myself, but it shrunk, which was disappointing. That's why I created something that retains its shape even after washing. I try to imagine what many people think about when they're dressing stylishly, and reflect that in the design and materials.

—Stylish people probably don't mind, but I think there are many people who feel self-conscious about wearing hats.

Many people probably think that our products won't suit them. That's something we constantly consider, and we strive to create designs that will appeal to a wide range of people and that will suit them.

—For example, there are many brands that specialize in just one item, such as brands that only make caps or brands that are strong in knit hats. <Kijima Takayuki> has a considerably large number of styles each season, and the variations are also diverse.


This is more of a personal "desire" of mine; I want to cover every type of headwear, every kind of hat. Bucket hats are in fashion right now, but if I were a craftsman who could only make caps, I don't think I could stand it. I want to challenge myself in every shape. That's the mindset I bring to my crafting.

--What kind of style do you personally like, Ms. Kijima?

When I first became interested in fashion, designer brands were at their peak. However, I disliked being confined to a specific style, so I preferred vintage clothing that allowed me to express myself. Even with branded items, I would deliberately try wearing them in a way that was different from the brand's image. This refusal to conform to a set style is still relevant to my current creative work.

IV. Future Prospects and YouTube Channel Introduction

--I'm also looking forward to the new initiative called Answer It.

In addition to our regular inline collection and our high-end line that showcases craftsmanship, we're launching a new project called Answer It. This project involves taking vintage items brought in by customers and updating them in a modern way.

One of the reasons for starting this project is that high-quality felt is becoming increasingly scarce each year, and another is to make effective use of hats that are lying around unused. We resize and remodel hats that are a little dirty or uncomfortable to wear, and upcycle them. Many old hats are made from good materials. Each one is unique, and it can be said to be Kijima Takayuki's own sustainable approach. In the future, we hope to collaborate with vintage clothing stores and brands to make use of waste materials as well.

--Finally, could you tell us about your outlook for the future of Kijima Takayuki?

Designing for "comfort and ease of use"

I feel that hats evolve at a slower pace than clothing. I sympathize with the attitude of craftsmen who have continued to uphold traditional manufacturing methods for 50 years, but whether a hat from 50 years ago suits today's style is another matter. I think it's important to create hats that are in line with the times and current styles. However, I always think that the reason I can create hats with designs that are in line with the times is because of the foundation I learned at Mr. Akio Hirata's atelier. Of course, the core and basic aspects of craftsmanship are important, but I want to continue to cherish designing hats that are comfortable to wear and easy to use.


The official Kijima Takayuki YouTube channel will be releasing a variety of content, starting with an aftercare video that will be available soon.



Related Articles: • 2015 Interview ▶ What Kijima Takayuki, the designer who has pursued hat making to its very core, has learned about the future of design after a quarter-century career.
・2017 Interview ▶ Valuing handcrafted work and maximizing the quality of materials – The next stage that hat brand <Kijima Takayuki> aims for



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