Millennial lasts proposed by major domestic and international manufacturers: their shapes and shoes | ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020


This article showcases shoes from various manufacturers designed for millennials, offering a more comfortable fit, along with their shoe lasts.

Each form reflects the unique skills and individuality of the creator.


1. SCOTCHGRAIN



<Scotch Grain> "13800" ¥39,600 □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

An elegant square toe.

The "GA-1" last features a narrower D width fitting compared to the traditional single E, and a smaller heel cup. The last is thinner in the instep, ball joint (the area where the big toe and little toe meet), and the upper part of the foot on the leg side, as well as the outer side, to provide a better hold. Scotch Grain, which has long made shoes based on the feet of Japanese people, has created a shape that responds to the changes in the feet of the millennial generation in recent years. In addition, the slightly elongated square toe creates an elegant impression.


2. madras



<Madras> "M728G" 33,000 yen □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

Shoes that blend craftsmanship and technology.

The "IS-101" last features an inward-curving design in the front half of the shoe last (from the toe area to the instep). This design aims to provide a secure fit by keeping the instep low to accommodate modern foot shapes, while maintaining ample width for a comfortable and well-fitting feel inside the shoe. The company's signature hand-finished uppers are also a major draw. Furthermore, the shoe incorporates Gore-Tex for enhanced comfort.


3. Otsuka



<Otsuka> "HS-2323" 39,600 yen □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

The new "HS-100" last was created targeting men aged 35 to 45. Compared to the company's conventional shoe lasts, the waist (around the arch of the foot) is more narrowly tapered, and the heel cup (heel area) has a tighter fit. The area from the ball joint (the raised part at the base of the big toe and little toe) to the toe is finished in a round toe shape that reduces pressure, and care has been taken to prevent the ball joint area from becoming too thick. The silhouette has an authentic feel, aimed at the millennial generation.


4. Otsuka+ M-5



<Otsuka Plus M5> "M5-502" ¥69,300 □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

A fusion of high-quality craftsmanship and modern wooden form.

The gently shaped round toe is refreshing. It combines the craftsmanship of the long-established Otsuka Shoe Company's high-end line "M-5" with the "Otsuka Plus" line, which pursues walking comfort and other features. The "B-741" is a classic last with a so-called inward-curving shape and a shorter toe. By firmly narrowing the shape of the inside of the last, it creates an elegant shape and a sense of support in the arch of the foot, achieving a high level of fit. As the first Otsuka Made that many people can easily choose, the last is a representation of over 140 years of accumulated foot shape data expressed with modern technology.


5. SHETLAND FOX



<Shetland Fox> "100F" ¥42,900 □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

Enhanced fit while providing a soft, comfortable feel.

Regal Corporation presents a high-quality shoe brand. The new "S16" last overturns the brand's traditional concept of a rigid fit, focusing on a modern and soft fit. It features a narrowed arch support and a comfortable fit around the heel. To address concerns about stiff leather and the feeling of the little toe rubbing against the shoe, the upper is made of soft, domestically produced kip leather, resulting in a soft feel against the foot.


6. REGAL



<Regal> "203S" ¥25,300 □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

The nuanced silhouette creates a perfect fit.

This brand originates from "Ise Katsu Shoe Factory," founded in 1870 by Katsuzo Nishimura, and has been a leading force in Japanese shoemaking for many years. The "C405" last is a "French classic" shape with a tight fit around the waist (arch area). The thickness of the toe area of the last is increased, while the heel area is made smaller to reduce heel slippage when the shoe is made. Furthermore, the inner last line is gently curved, creating an overall voluminous silhouette.


7. UNION IMPERIAL



Union Imperial "U1961" ¥42,900 □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

Making shoe lasts that focus on the tilt of the foot axis.

The "S76-1" last is a rearward-flexing shoe last (a last designed to conform to the shape of the foot), with the rear of the last further twisted inward to match the natural shape of the foot. Data shows that the average Japanese foot is tilted at an 8-degree angle. When a bent foot is placed in a shoe with a straight last that is not designed to take this tilt into account, the foot rotates inside the shoe, ultimately causing pressure on the little toe. Therefore, the last has been improved to suit the millennial generation, with a smaller heel cup and a lowered outer ankle. Rubber sole.


8. BARKER



<Barker> "4610DW 11" ¥49,500 □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

A millennial last designed by a long-established British brand.

Founded in 1880, this long-established shoe manufacturer is located in Northamptonshire, a hub of the British shoe industry. They are known for their solid shoemaking, primarily using the Goodyear welted construction method. The new millennial last, "SL-15346," is based on their experience and is an improved version of the "69D" last, which is well-suited to Japanese feet. The waist (arch circumference) has been narrowed and the heel cup has been made smaller. The toe shape is a smart, rounded toe with a moderate thickness, giving it an elegant feel while remaining authentic.


9. Berwick 1707



<Berwick 1707> "9628" ¥33,000 □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

Designed with a smaller heel cup, ideal for Japanese feet.

This shoe manufacturer, based in Almansa, Spain, primarily uses the Goodyear welted construction method. Isetan Men's buyer, Mr. Tabata, also participated in the development, creating the millennial last together with the company president. They offer two lasts: the "261," a last with a smaller heel cup tailored to Japanese feet and increased height from the instep to the toe; and the "262," a loafer last with a further shaped instep to prevent heel slippage. Both feature a round toe balanced to avoid pressure on the little toe and big toe. Rubber sole.


10. BENSON SHOES



<Benson Shoes> "9992" ¥50,600 □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

A Casablanca shoe manufacturer known for its high-quality shoes.

Based on the company's flagship last, "No. 21003," the "No. 999" last has been modified to better fit Japanese feet, with the heel, instep, and toe areas adjusted accordingly. It features an extremely inward curve, with a shaped arch and added padding around the little toe. As a result, it offers a surprisingly comfortable fit and is less tiring to wear for extended periods.


11. Jalan Sriwijaya



<JALAN SRIWIJAYA> "98961" ¥37,400 □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 6th Floor = Event Hall "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2020" / Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F = Men's Shoes

The inward-curving last provides a snug fit for the arch of the foot.

This brand is from an Indonesian shoe manufacturer known for its high-quality shoemaking using the hand-sewn welted construction method. This time, we've selected the "M57" last, which is particularly curved inward among the lasts offered by the company. The waist is tightly tapered, creating a comfortable fit in the arch of the foot.

Photograph:Toru Oshima,Takao Ohta
Text: Yukihiro Sugawara

*All prices include tax.

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