What are the diverse appeals that JOHN LOBB embodies, and what constitutes a high-quality men's shoe? We spoke with the leader who has guided the brand in Japan for many years.

Tomoki Matsuda, President of John Lobb Japan

JOHN LOBB has a history of over 150 years as a bespoke (made-to-order) shoemaker, and since introducing ready-made shoes in 1981, it has reigned as the pinnacle of high-end ready-made men's shoes. Since 2014, they have welcomed Paula Gerbase, who was active in women's and men's fashion, as artistic director, incorporating the philosophy and sense of fashion rooted in the brand's origins into their traditional British shoemaking, and have expanded their product range to include not only men's leather shoes but also sneakers and women's shoes.

So what does JOHN LOBB want to convey to the world in this day and age? John Lobb Japan President Tomoaki Matsuda explained the reason as follows.

"I want to reset the current image of John Lobb. Many people probably think of John Lobb as a brand of high-end, classic shoes, worn by people with a certain level of career experience and age. But, for example, I think that even if a young person wearing clothes from a fashion brand with minimalist beauty were to wear John Lobb shoes, it would still suit them. I want a wider range of people to know what John Lobb is like now."

"City" and "Philip" with a focus on the present.

For the Spring/Summer 2020 season, four limited-edition shoe models are available. Of particular note are two models using the popular 8695 last: the "City," a cap-toe oxford (straight tip), and the "Philip," a punched cap oxford. For those already familiar with JOHN LOBB , these may appear as nostalgic reissues of past classic models, but President Matsuda says the intention is not simply to reissue them.

"We accepted requests for these exclusive models because we felt that the volume of the 8695 round-toe last was in line with the sensibilities of today's era. These are actually aimed at the sensibilities of young people today. We certainly haven't dug up anything old."


Indeed, for one of next season's trends, a uniform-style set-up, the reissued "City" seems to be a better match than the usual elegant "City II" with the 7000 last. Also, the "Chambord," an apron-front derby (U-tip), has a moderately casual feel thanks to its workwear-inspired style and the use of a "classic rubber sole," making it easy to match with current fashion trends. The special edition model of the popular loafer "Lopez" has a soft fit thanks to its flexible Tensil construction, and it seems like it could even be worn barefoot.

Good shoes are beautiful and long-lasting.

Furthermore, President Matsuda described the values that JOHN LOBB brand pursues as follows:

"Our core principle has always been to ensure that our customers can use our shoes for as long as possible. That's the DNA of John Lobb, and of high-quality shoes in general. This might be a slight digression, but recently, sustainability has always been a topic of discussion in interviews. However, our shoes themselves are inherently sustainable; they are designed to be worn for a long time, even a lifetime. In other words, we manufacture our products with the longest possible lifespan in mind."


The reason why JOHN LOBB shoes are considered the finest men's shoes is not only because of their beautiful appearance, but also because of their robustness and durability. This richness of material is achieved through the meticulous craftsmanship of the artisans in the workshop. Furthermore, President Matsuda explained the full-grain calf leather that JOHN LOBB continues to use for the upper (the leather on the top of the shoe) as follows:

"Full-grain calfskin means leather that has been tanned using the raw hide of an animal (cow) in its natural state. Nowadays, it's common to use leather where the surface of the raw hide has been processed to remove any blemishes and make it uniform, but John Lobb does not use that kind of leather. And full-grain leather breathes."

The appeal of JOHN LOBB shoes, crafted with carefully selected materials and high-level techniques, is also evident in their "Precious Line." This line includes classic models made with high-quality crocodile and lizard leather, available only at a limited number of stores in Japan.

"We incorporate leathers suitable for shoemaking from the precious leathers developed at Hermès, with whom John Lobb has a close relationship. We offer buckskin crocodile leather and other materials as ready-made shoes, but it is also possible to order them by request. This initiative has become possible because we are now able to consistently use high-quality leather."

"I think it's fine for people to come and see what makes a good pair of shoes. After that, I hope they'll find the right size for them and experience the comfort of John Lobb shoes. And if they're worn in for a while, I think they'll be able to appreciate their quality even more in 5 or 10 years. I'd be happy if John Lobb could be the place where you find such shoes."