In men's fashion, British and Italian brands and tailors are often treated as luxury items, along with the materials—the fabrics themselves. This is understandable, given that Western clothing originated in the West, and European clothing is indeed of high quality, but this is often overlooked. Japan also has many skilled tailors and plenty of high-quality fabrics. Despite this, it's difficult to say that these things receive the recognition they deserve. ISETAN MEN'S is continuing a project to re-evaluate these Japanese "treasures."


"We are focusing on the artisans of Japan, the 'land of hands.' This project embodies our desire to reaffirm Japan's delicate aesthetic sense and advanced craftsmanship, and to share them with the world," says Yamaura, buyer for tailored clothing on the 5th floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building .

"It is said that one of the world's three major wool textile producing regions is in Japan. The others are Biella in Italy, Huddersfield in England, and Bishu in Japan. This region spans from the western Owari area of Aichi Prefecture to the Seino area of Gifu Prefecture, and was formerly the Owari Province. By dividing and collaborating on all processes from spinning to weaving, approximately 80% of Japan's domestic wool textile production takes place in Bishu. The wool textiles produced by skilled Japanese craftsmen, who are adept at delicate work while inheriting traditional methods, are highly regarded worldwide, with orders coming in from top fashion houses overseas."


In a word, the defining characteristic of Bishu fabrics is craftsmanship. It could be said that this lies in the delicate sensibilities of the Japanese people, who are diligent in their research and possess skillful hands. Not only are they able to produce the highest quality, high-count fabrics, as is typical of a technologically advanced country, but they can also create vintage-style fabrics that look as if they were woven 100 years ago, using old-fashioned looms that they have gone to the trouble of importing from overseas. Bishu is a region where mills (weaving mills) capable of spinning such a wide range of fabrics are concentrated.

Bishu has now become a global source of rare "vintage fabrics." In recent years, thanks to a boom, Bishu has been producing a variety of vintage-style fabrics by analyzing the original recipes. They are even receiving orders from high-end fashion houses and luxury brands overseas. ISETAN MEN'S is also collaborating with Bishu weavers to produce a variety of custom-made fabrics that exude a vintage feel.

"For over 10 years, we have been collaborating with textile manufacturers in Bishu to create fabrics. By having brands and manufacturers use the fabrics we develop, we are able to offer a unique collection that can only be found at ISETAN MEN'S . We also use Bishu fabrics in the made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring service offered on the 5th floor men's tailored clothing section. The combination of Lid Tailor, which doesn't usually have the opportunity to use domestically produced fabrics, and Bishu fabrics is a rare item that can only be purchased here."

Let's take a look at some of the clothing items made by Lid Tailor using exclusive fabrics from ISETAN MEN'S and Bishu.


Tacca is a weaving company that ISETAN MEN'S has collaborated with for the first time. Although it was founded in 2004, making it relatively young, its founder, Hideki Tanahashi, became independent after working for a major textile company. The company specializes in vintage-style fabrics with a high fashion sensibility, and by using old-fashioned Schonherr and low-speed rapier looms, it excels at creating textured fabrics that can only be achieved through deliberately inefficient processes.

"Mr. Takka is a manufacturer that has established a supply chain for high-quality raw materials by frequently visiting wool-producing regions such as Peru and India. We had him weave our jacket and coat fabrics. By using sustainable, undyed baby camel, yak, and uncarbonized wool, and weaving them at a low speed on a Schonherr weave, we believe we have created a fabric that is airy and voluminous, resulting in a soft feel."


Nakaden Woolen Mills is considered one of the leading weaving mills in Bishu, and has always specialized in woolen fabrics, as evidenced by its involvement in the "Tweed Run Nagoya" held last year. ISETAN MEN'S has previously commissioned custom tweed fabrics from them, and this time they have requested a homespun-style tweed fabric.

"We conceived this tweed as something that could be worn with a suit. To suppress the characteristic scratchy feel of tweed, we utilized a technique of wrapping worsted yarn around woolen yarn, allowing us to create a modern tweed with a different approach from traditional British tweed."


Opalex's appeal lies in its exceptional product development skills, stemming from the sensibilities of its representative, Mr. Yamamoto. It is said that famous designer brands both domestically and internationally rely on them.

"Based on a houndstooth pattern, we've used multiple colors of thread to create a rich, deep color scheme. We've employed various techniques to recreate the feel of vintage British fabrics, and the combination of planning and technical skill required to achieve such an elaborate finish truly reflects the craftsmanship of Japanese artisans."


All of the fabrics used this time can also be used in Lid Tailor's MTM (Made-to-Order) production. Tailor Osamu Nemoto says:

"I've been going overseas to buy fabrics for many years now, but it's getting harder and harder to find good fabrics each year. Buyers all over the world are desperately searching for fabrics like Tonic and Super Brio, but the price increases are so drastic that it's not really realistic anymore. Even if you do find some, the colors and patterns don't suit Japanese tastes. Fabrics with colors and patterns that everyone wants are hardly available anymore."

Furthermore, according to Nemoto, the water quality in the area has changed, making it difficult to produce high-quality fabrics even when the conditions are met. Moreover, mills in Huddersfield, England, are undergoing heavy consolidation, with one mill producing multiple fabric brands. This makes differentiation difficult. In fact, fabrics produced in Bishu by Japanese craftsmen tend to have more character. "And on top of that..." Nemoto continues.


"I've heard that most of the old looms that were no longer used in Europe were bought up by Japanese weaving companies. If the fabrics being woven in Japan today are based on reproductions of those original recipes through research, then they're not just replicas, but practically the real thing."

Vintage style has certainly been a trending keyword for the past few seasons, but not everyone seeks the real thing. Rather, the reproductions that carry on the legacy of the originals were made in Bishu. This is one of the reasons why fabrics woven in Japan are attracting increasing attention.