Northamptonshire, England, is a hub for masters of high-end ready-to-wear shoes. This shoemaker, though relatively new, has gained worldwide acclaim for its exceptional shoemaking. Originally founded by bespoke shoemakers, it continues to uphold bespoke shoemaking principles while pursuing the creation of ready-to-wear shoes crafted by skilled artisans.

Ready-made shoes that utilize the techniques of handmade shoemaking.

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In January of this year, Gaziano & Girling (hereinafter G&G) became a purveyor to Prince Charles, solidifying its reputation as a truly top-class brand. To uncover the secret to its quality, we began by asking a straightforward question: "What specific process sets it apart from other brands?"

Tony Gaziano, a 46-year-old businessman in the prime of his career, then smiled and calmly said, "There is no particular process that is special. Every step is important, and skilled craftsmen add a little extra effort and care at each stage. I think that the accumulation of these small details makes a big difference in the final product."

Ultimately, there's no magic formula for creating the finest products. However, Tony's statement that there's "nothing special" is a sign of modesty. To reveal the secret upfront, G&G still meticulously crafts shoes using traditional methods derived from bespoke craftsmanship. In other words, every step of the process is special.

"First of all, the materials are different. We use the highest quality leather, which is only used for bespoke tailoring. With a few exceptions, we do not use any leather with artificial coatings. Of course, all the cutting is done by hand by our craftsmen."

Stepping into the factory, you notice the lack of machine noise. This is because the process of making high-quality shoes is primarily done by hand. Even in this cutting room, the only sound you hear is the skillful "shhh, shhh" of Darren cutting the leather with great energy and determination.

The subsequent sewing process is also predominantly done by hand, so there is no machine noise. In this room, I saw a punching machine that is over 40 years old, used for creating decorative perforations. Creating precise perforations in highly elastic, high-quality leather requires the delicate touch of a human hand. Apparently, automated machines cannot handle this.



The beauty that comes from a romantic attitude.

G&G, which deals in the finest materials, has several vintage machines that were in use in those good old days.

"You probably only find this type of bottom-mounting machine in museums anymore. We bought three of them to operate just one machine because they don't make the parts anymore. We reassembled the three machines into one and are using that."

It may not look old at first glance, but this machine is 70 years old. G&G is currently the only factory that uses this machine to last the upper onto the last.

"In modern shoe factories, it's common to use a single machine for all stages of sole attachment, from gluing and lasting to nailing, but here we use three different old-fashioned machines, each with its own unique process."

This meticulousness. From the perspective of modern business practices that prioritize efficiency and profit, Tony's sensibility—his insistence on handmade craftsmanship and his use of words like "soul" and "aura" to describe his products—might seem old-fashioned. But it's also romantic. And it is this attitude towards shoemaking that gives birth to G&G's beautiful shoes.

"In addition to adhering to traditional shoemaking processes, another thing I consider important is making shoes with as few people as possible. In a typical factory, one person is assigned to each process, but here, one craftsman handles four to five processes. For example, in this sole attachment process, the skilled Richard is the only one who handles four steps, starting from carefully skyping the counter. The flow is crucial in shoemaking, and as the number of people increases, the standards for quality become more diverse, which can dilute the attention to detail in the finished product."

Thus, G&G shoes are made with a deep interest that can only be described as love, and with a level of meticulousness that might be considered naive in modern times. No wonder, because they are made using the same techniques and processes, even ready-made shoes possess the same aura as bespoke shoes, adorned with curves and luster that can only be achieved through human craftsmanship.

The master craftsman of G&G Bespoke, chosen as the world's best craftsman.

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Daniel Wigan, a tall, 190cm man with a beard and loosely running his fingers through his curly red hair, is a gentle young man with a somewhat poetic air about him. The 2019 World Shoemaking Champion began by saying, "Bespoke is very human."

"Each customer has their own specific preferences. Some are particular about the shoes themselves, others are particular about how well they match their clothes after trying them on. Some are simply particular about the shape, and others are unusually particular about the leather. Bespoke shoes are about responding to these specific preferences of the customer, and there is an aspect to it where we learn about people through shoes and their feet."

So, which steps are crucial in shoemaking to accommodate these diverse individual needs?

"The last part is definitely the most important. And within that, the bottom (sole) is especially crucial. It's where the most weight is placed, the material is the hardest, and it can't be remade. In other words, if this part doesn't fit properly, you can't make a comfortable shoe. On the other hand, the upper, which is made of a softer material, is almost always fine if the measurements are taken correctly, and it's easier to adjust during the fitting stage, offering more flexibility."

Daniel says the first and foremost requirement for a good shoe is "comfort." He believes that no matter how beautiful a shoe is, it's meaningless if no one wears it. Apparently, the standards for comfort vary from country to country.

"Japanese people prefer a tight fit. This is because Japanese feet are generally softer. So, a slightly snug fit feels comfortable, giving them a sense of 'fitting well.' In contrast, Westerners often have bony, angular feet and prefer a slightly looser fit. This is another interesting aspect of bespoke shoes."

Daniel, who possesses the aesthetic sense to create the world's best shoes, also finds joy in the interaction with customers that is unique to bespoke shoemaking. His personality perfectly matches G&G's highly artistic corporate culture, and there is no doubt that this gentle, slender, red-haired giant will continue to lead the pinnacle of bespoke shoemaking.

Event Information

Gaziano & Girling Pattern Order Event
□September 14th (Sat) and 15th (Sun)
□Main building, 5th floor = Event hall

*Tony Gaziano and Daniel Wigan are scheduled to visit.

Photo: Haruko Tomioka
Text: Masatoshi Mori