ISETAN Shoe Fair 2019 – The dazzling world of the ISETAN Shoe Fair.
2019.08.29 update

The shoe expert reveals the essential basics of leather shoes you should know.

  1. Q. Why are good leather shoes so expensive?
  2. Q. Which leather shoes should I choose?
  3. Q. What kinds of materials are used for leather shoes?
  4. Q. What is the value of leather shoes?
The "Shoe Sage," said to reside between the basement and first floors of the shoe department at Isetan Men's in Shinjuku, Tokyo, made a surprise appearance, drawn in by the excitement of the ISETAN Shoe Fair. There, he secretly shared some very basic facts about leather shoes that you wouldn't normally get to ask anyone.



Part 1: This is how leather shoes are made.

Q. Why are good leather shoes so expensive?


A. Because it has a complex structure and takes a long time and effort to make.


A shoe is broadly divided into two parts: the "upper," which is the part that covers the top of the foot, and the "sole," which is the bottom of the shoe. While most shoes today are made by gluing these parts together, good leather shoes are sewn together with thread. This not only gives the shoe a three-dimensional finish and a better appearance, but also allows the stitching to stretch slightly as the shoe is worn, resulting in a natural fit to the foot.

The two main stitching methods are called "Goodyear welted" and "Blake" or "McKay." The former uses two types of stitching, resulting in a durable and stable fit, while the latter uses only one type of stitching, making it lighter and more comfortable. In both methods, precise stitching and careful shoemaking require the shoe last to be placed in the upper for an extended period to set the shape, and high quality is also required for the leather and various small parts.

High-quality leather shoes have a complex structure and manufacturing process, which means they take a long time and a lot of effort to make, resulting in a generally higher price.


Part 2: Styles of Leather Shoes

Q. Which leather shoes should I choose?


A. These are the six shapes I recommend now.

Leather shoes often look the same because many designs are based on tradition. However, just like fashion trends, there are significant changes in trends and needs over time. You are free to choose according to your own lifestyle, preferences, and individuality, but if you were to choose based on a contemporary sensibility, these six pairs would be my recommendations.


1. Cap-toe Oxford (straight tip)


These shoes feature a single line of stitching across the toe, resembling a cap sewn onto the toe. They are an "Oxford" style, meaning the eyelets (grommets) for the laces cannot be fully opened at the toe. When made with black cowhide leather, these shoes are considered ideal for formal occasions. They also pair well with business suits, conveying a sense of understated elegance and integrity, making them a valuable addition to any wardrobe for those who work in such attire.


2. Plain Toe Derby



As the name suggests, these are plain shoes, meaning they have no decorations whatsoever on the toe or around the seams. Among them, the most representative style is the "open lacing" type, also known as a derby, where the eyelets for the shoelaces on the toe side can be fully opened, as shown in the picture. Because of its simple design, it can be used for a wide range of occasions, from business to casual, and because there are no decorations, it is easy to care for. For this reason, regardless of the color or type of leather, it is also recommended as a first model to buy if you are starting to take an interest in leather shoes.


3. Full brogue oxford (wingtip)


This is a classic example of a shoe featuring perforations called "brogues" (also known as "parent-child holes" or "perforations") around the toe and seams, specifically those arranged in a W-shape on the toe, resembling wings. Often, a "medallion" of perforations is added to the upper part of the toe, giving it a decorative feel whether it's an open-laced or closed-laced style like the one pictured. As it's a classic style, there's a wide variety of options available, from those that can be worn with suits to those with a more casual feel.


4. Apron-front derby (U-tip)



These lace-up shoes feature a U-shaped "moccasin stitch" on the instep and can be thought of as a lace-up version of the loafers described later. Originally, they were considered as casual as, or even more casual than, full brogues, but in recent years, more and more people are wearing them with jackets and trousers or suits. There are various types of moccasin stitching on the instep, some of which can only be done by hand, and some models are known as more luxurious and rare shoes.

5. Loafers


Loafers are a prime example of slip-on shoes, lacking features like laces for fine-tuning the fit. They feature a U-shaped stitch called a "moccasin stitch" around the instep, with a decorative band sewn above it. The name "loafer" comes from the English word for "lazy person," reflecting their ease of putting on and taking off due to the absence of laces. Their casual appearance makes them suitable for jacket styles, but wearing them with a suit might be difficult unless you're a skilled fashionista.

6. Double Monk Strap

These are monk strap shoes, which are leather shoes that use buckles and straps to fine-tune the fit, but these have two pairs of buckles and straps. A distinctive feature is that the instep is held in place by a large area of leather rather than laces. The reason they have a somewhat aristocratic feel compared to regular monk straps might be because the first person to wear this style was the Duke of Windsor, a well-known fashionista in England. If the upper is made of black or dark brown calfskin, they can be well paired with a suit.


Part 3: Materials for leather shoes

Q. What kinds of materials are used for leather shoes?


A. There are many types of leather, but these are some that you should remember.

The "upper" of leather shoes, which encases the foot, is made from a variety of leathers. Even with cowhide, which is overwhelmingly the most common, the appearance varies greatly depending on the processing, from those with a natural sheen to those with a strong shine, oily and matte finishes, and napped finishes. If you remember the four types shown on the right, you won't have any trouble choosing.

Upper material

Calfskin (cowhide, black and brown)

While technically this term refers to all cowhide made from the hides of calves up to about six months old, it is commonly used to describe cowhide made from the hides of relatively young cows up to about two years old, where the "grain side," the strongest, finest, and most flexible part of the hide, is left as the surface. Because it is finished with minimal surface processing, it cannot be called this unless the raw hide is in excellent condition, making it an elite type of cowhide. It is characterized by its supple texture and the ability to develop a natural, beautiful sheen on the surface with proper care.


Scotch Grain

This refers to leather that has been heated and pressurized during the manufacturing process, primarily using a press, to create a slightly irregular, barley-grain-like pattern (grain) on its surface. Originally, this design was conceived to hide minute scratches on the surface of the leather, allowing more leather to be used. However, today, it is valued not only for giving the leather a firm texture but also for making the surface more resistant to scratches and making scratches less noticeable even if they do occur. It is widely used, mainly in leather shoes, to give a country-style look.


Cordovan

This leather is made from the inner, fleshy part of a horse's hindquarters, not a cowhide. The fibrous layer beneath the epidermis is exposed, and the leather is then aged to finish. Because the fibrous layer resembles a bivalve shell, it is strictly called "shell cordovan." The density of this fibrous layer is about three times that of cowhide. As a result, it is soft yet durable despite its thickness, and develops large, beautiful creases with wear. With proper care, it can also develop a highly transparent sheen, and is often used in the highest-end range of American-style leather shoes.


suede

Originally, this term referred to leather where the inner flesh side was napped during the manufacturing process and that napped side was used as the surface finish. However, in recent years, it's often used to describe leather where the outer grain side has been napped as well. In any case, leather with a finer nap is considered to be of higher quality. Perhaps because of its soft, fluffy, and warm feel, it's a familiar choice for the uppers of casual leather shoes, and the napped surface also provides natural water repellency. The fact that maintenance is simple, mainly involving brushing, is another hidden charm.


Sole material



Leather sole

Using thick cowhide leather, this is the original sole material, and even with the emergence of various new materials these days, it remains the optimal sole material. In particular, it excels in heat resistance and natural breathability, and actually has good flexibility and cushioning. Although it is inferior in water resistance and grip, it is not necessarily heavy, so if you get the hang of handling it, you can enjoy its comfort for the longest time.




rubber sole

This is a general term for products made from rubber. While they excel in water resistance and grip, they are not very breathable and tend to trap heat and moisture. However, in recent years, various innovations have been made to mitigate these issues. The weight, which had been a long-standing problem, has also been reduced by using foamed materials, and now lightweight products are the mainstream. There are also plenty of products specifically designed for certain uses, such as rainy days.


Part 4: The true value of leather shoes

Q. What is the value of leather shoes?


A. It means that as you wear them and they become more comfortable, they become yours.


Regal Shoe & Company provides shoes in each size that have been worn and broken in to some extent. This allows customers to understand in advance how the shoes will change over time. At the ISETAN Shoe Fair, Regal Shoe & Company will have a corner where customers can experience these "wearable samples."


The photo shows "worn-in shoe try-on samples" available for fitting at Regal Shoe & Company in Shibuya. When leather shoes are worn for a long period of time, their shape and texture gradually change from when they were new. Wrinkles may appear, slight unevenness may develop, the color may subtly change, and sometimes scratches may appear.

Through these processes, the characteristics and habits of the owner's feet are transferred to the shoes, and the fit gradually improves. In other words, new leather shoes are only semi-finished products at this stage, and what are essentially "shoes of a certain manufacturer or brand" with little individual variation gradually transform into a unique and irreplaceable "shoe of yours."

However, achieving this requires a little effort and care. First, it's important to maintain your shoes at appropriate intervals, specifically by removing dirt and nourishing them with shoe cream on a regular basis. Also, if you notice any problems, it's important to have them repaired before they become a major issue.

High-quality leather shoes are made with the intention of being worn for a long time with proper repairs, which is why there are so many parts that can be repaired, such as the entire sole. Conversely, no matter how expensive the shoes are, if these repairs are neglected, they will not only fail to perform to their full potential, but they will also never truly become "your shoes."


Illustrations：Toru Takizawa［SANDER STUDIO］
Photo: Hirotaka Hashimoto, Takao Ohta
Text: Takahiro Iino

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