How were these value-packed original models created? What's the story behind the ultimate "daily shoes"?
The goal of Isetan Men's is to create original shoes that offer excellent cost performance while being wearable by many people on a daily basis. We visited the workplaces of the people who are making this project a reality.
The shoe last is an essential component in shoemaking. The original "Daily Shoes" to be unveiled at this year's ISETAN Shoe Fair feature lasts that have been newly developed. We visited the workshops where these lasts are created and spoke with the people involved.
The shoe lasts used to create the models produced by the shoe brand "Perfetto" were made by shoe last craftsman Tetsuya Matsuda. Matsuda is a shoe last maker who creates lasts for a wide range of shoes, from men's to women's shoes, and from leather shoes to sneakers. He originally aspired to be a clothing designer, but happened to encounter shoemaking while working at a shoe store. After attending a vocational school, he worked on shoe last making for a manufacturer before becoming independent. He has since dedicated himself to shoe last making for nearly 20 years.
"We incorporated all the elements of a classic shoe last—a properly rolled sole and base, support at the inner ball joint (base of the big toe), firm arch support, and a secure heel hold—to create an elegant, straight-looking last."
Matsuda describes the wooden shoe last he created for this project in this way. When he says "classic," he means the characteristics of the wooden shoe lasts from the 1950s to the 1970s from America and Britain, which he had stored in his atelier.
"The old shoe lasts were very well made. I think the shoe lasts for ready-made shoes were pretty much perfected around the 1950s. But after the 1980s, they changed in order to make mass production easier. Now, I think it's important to dig up the past."
Furthermore, Matsuda explained his intention behind the "Daily Shoes" project, stating that he wanted more people to wear shoes made with shoe lasts that incorporate classic elements.
Towards the end of the interview, we filmed Mr. Matsuda at work creating a shoe last for his research. He draws the lines of a moccasin (loafer) onto the upper, then applies and sands putty to create the shape. He has been working on this shoe last for over a year.
"I'm creating a last for moccasins that prevents the foot from slipping off easily. I believe that one day I'll arrive at a shape that fits perfectly."
There was something about his tone of voice that suggested he was a seeker of truth.
These are wooden shoe molds lined up on a rack in Mr. Matsuda's studio. There's a wide variety, including men's and women's shoes, leather shoes, and sneakers. He shapes the molds by carving out resin molds and adding putty.
He also keeps several old shoe lasts from countries like America and Britain as reference materials. He says that he now understands that shapes he used to question were actually designed to create beautiful creases when worn.
If you've sanded too much or need to reshape it, you can apply putty to the surface like this and then sand it down again.
This shoe last was created specifically for these Isetan Men's original shoes. While incorporating fitting elements, it could easily have resulted in an oblique shape, but they managed to create a shoe with a dress shoe feel.
Last making, which evolved from bespoke shoemaking. — Yugo Hayano
While Mr. Matsuda, mentioned earlier, was a shoe last maker who produced lasts for ready-made shoes, the other last for these original shoes is made by a craftsman with a different background. Yugo Hayano is a last maker, meaning he is a craftsman who is primarily responsible for making lasts for bespoke (made-to-order) shoes. In the world of bespoke shoes, especially in the UK, shoemaking is often done by division of labor. There are roughly four types of craftsmen: the last maker who carves the last to fit the foot, the pattern maker who creates the pattern for cutting the leather, the closer who sews the cut leather for the upper, and the bottom maker who lasts the upper onto the last and attaches the sole. Among these, the last maker is the one who measures the customer's foot, takes their order, and then makes the last and other parts accordingly, playing a fundamental role in bespoke shoemaking. In addition to making his own bespoke shoes, Mr. Hayano also uses his skills and techniques as a last maker to create lasts for ready-made shoes.
Originally a bespoke shoemaker in Japan, Mr. Hayano traveled to England to learn last-making, where he apprenticed under Stephen Lowe, who was then the last maker at John Lobb, a bespoke shoe shop in London's St. James's. After returning to Japan and establishing his own business, he has since been involved in creating house lasts for custom-made shoe shops and also working on lasts for ready-made shoe manufacturers.
"While my approach to creating shoe lasts for bespoke shoes and for ready-made shoes differs, the process of creating the last is the same."
This is what Mr. Hayano says. He carves out wooden molds from blocks of hornbeam wood or roughly carved wooden molds called rough turns, using large cutting tools called bench knives and files. It is woodworking work, just as the name "wooden mold" suggests.
"Bespoke shoe lasts are made to fit the customer's feet, so even if they are uneven or have differences between the left and right shoes, that's a result of the fitting and, in a sense, their individuality. Furthermore, with handmade shoes, adjustments can be made through the shoe's construction. However, with ready-made shoes, the materials and structure that make up the shoe are standardized, and the process is predetermined, so we are conscious of that and aim for a smooth shape. However, the shape and the measurements of each part reflect our experience in creating shoe lasts with our customers up until now."
Yugo Hayano carves the shoe last. Even with lasts for ready-made shoes, he carves them using the same methods as for bespoke shoes.
Various types of files used for shaping wooden patterns. Many of them are old ones made of cast steel.
A work bench. It was apparently made by Mr. Hayano himself to be easy to use. 
A block of hornbeam wood is being carved using a large bladed tool called a bench knife. The carving is done while watching the grain direction, ensuring the cut pieces are rounded. This bench knife is also a vintage tool.
This is the shoe last for these original shoes. The toe is slightly elongated, as per the manufacturer's request.
Perfetto
Based on the original lasts created by the aforementioned shoe last makers, shoe last manufacturers create lasts for each size, which are then used by shoe manufacturers in the actual shoemaking process. The photo below shows a production last made from a last created by Tetsuya Matsuda. It was taken at the factory of Binaseiko, the manufacturer of the shoe brand "Perfetto".
The original shoes for this collection are available in two construction methods: Goodyear welted and McKay. However, all three Goodyear welted models are made by Perfetto. When we visited, the uppers and insoles, which had already undergone lasting and welt stitching at another factory, were being fitted with shoe lasts, attached to the soles, and finished.
Perfetto shoes are known for their meticulous craftsmanship and sophisticated feel. At the workshop, skilled artisans handle several stages of the process, occasionally incorporating manual work to ensure the shoes are made with care.
For example, in the Goodyear welted construction, the cork used to fill the space between the insole and outsole is made by cutting a high-density sheet of cork and attaching it to the underside of the insole. Then, the surface of the cork is hammered by hand to conform it to the ribs and other parts of the insole, eliminating any gaps. Also, the stitching of the outsole is done using hemp thread coated with rosin as a bobbin thread, which is then allowed to dry naturally before proceeding to the next step.
What became clear from observing the actual work process was that the shoemaking at Perfetto is extremely authentic. Without simplifying for mass production, the process is rational, yet the essential steps and techniques required for making Goodyear welted leather shoes are maintained. While it may not be a factory with a long history like the shoemakers in Northampton, England, the shoemaking there is just as impressive.
Regarding the creation of these shoes using the original shoe last, Shinji Shimamura of Binaseiko said, "There was nothing particularly difficult about the process. We've always made shoes using various shoe lasts." These words conveyed the pride of the company, which has been responsible for making shoes for many brands.
The image shows someone hammering a cork sheet, which has been used as a filling material. This manual process, rather than using a machine, allows for precise control of the hammering.
Check the shape of both sides and make sure they are in the same condition before attaching the bottom.
This shows the process of stitching the sole. Attaching the channeled sole with fine stitching is considered a high-grade technique overseas. 
The channeling of the sole can also be done manually in this way.
The process involves wetting the sole and smoothing the edges with sandpaper. Carefully work through the process, changing the grit of the sandpaper as needed.
After the sole stitching is done, the channel is closed, and then the surface is smoothed by hand using a hammer.
The finishing touches, such as coloring the soles, are also done by hand.
This "Daily Shoes" project pursues cost-effective shoes that can be used in everyday business attire. These shoes are from Isetan Men's, produced by Perfetto, an original brand of Binaseiko, a shoe manufacturer that handles shoes for numerous brands. Despite the reasonable price of 30,000 yen, they feature a solid construction using the Goodyear welted method and an elegant round-toe silhouette created by an original last.
Madras, one of Japan's leading long-established shoe manufacturers, has created an Isetan Men's original "daily shoes" at the remarkably low price of 20,000 yen. Utilizing madras 's signature Goodyear welt construction, these shoes offer a light and comfortable fit. The smart, rounded toe last was modified specifically for this original design. The elegant silhouette, reflecting the shape of the last, speaks to the quality of the shoemaking technique. The upper has a refined texture.
Photo: Kazuhiro Shiraishi
Text: Yukihiro Sugawara
*All prices include tax.
inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
03-3352-1111 (main representative)
For inquiries via email, please click here.
In pursuit of more comfortable shoe lasts for machine-made shoes. —Tetsuya Matsuda
The shoe last is an essential component in shoemaking. The original "Daily Shoes" to be unveiled at this year's ISETAN Shoe Fair feature lasts that have been newly developed. We visited the workshops where these lasts are created and spoke with the people involved.
Tetsuya Matsuda
After graduating from the Esperanza Shoe Academy, he spent five years making shoe lasts at a shoe manufacturer before becoming independent. He started by making lasts for women's shoes, and later began working on men's shoes as well. While making lasts for machine-made ready-to-wear shoes, he also worked on his own shoe brand.
The shoe lasts used to create the models produced by the shoe brand "Perfetto" were made by shoe last craftsman Tetsuya Matsuda. Matsuda is a shoe last maker who creates lasts for a wide range of shoes, from men's to women's shoes, and from leather shoes to sneakers. He originally aspired to be a clothing designer, but happened to encounter shoemaking while working at a shoe store. After attending a vocational school, he worked on shoe last making for a manufacturer before becoming independent. He has since dedicated himself to shoe last making for nearly 20 years.
"We incorporated all the elements of a classic shoe last—a properly rolled sole and base, support at the inner ball joint (base of the big toe), firm arch support, and a secure heel hold—to create an elegant, straight-looking last."
Matsuda describes the wooden shoe last he created for this project in this way. When he says "classic," he means the characteristics of the wooden shoe lasts from the 1950s to the 1970s from America and Britain, which he had stored in his atelier.
"The old shoe lasts were very well made. I think the shoe lasts for ready-made shoes were pretty much perfected around the 1950s. But after the 1980s, they changed in order to make mass production easier. Now, I think it's important to dig up the past."
Furthermore, Matsuda explained his intention behind the "Daily Shoes" project, stating that he wanted more people to wear shoes made with shoe lasts that incorporate classic elements.
Towards the end of the interview, we filmed Mr. Matsuda at work creating a shoe last for his research. He draws the lines of a moccasin (loafer) onto the upper, then applies and sands putty to create the shape. He has been working on this shoe last for over a year.
"I'm creating a last for moccasins that prevents the foot from slipping off easily. I believe that one day I'll arrive at a shape that fits perfectly."
There was something about his tone of voice that suggested he was a seeker of truth.
These are wooden shoe molds lined up on a rack in Mr. Matsuda's studio. There's a wide variety, including men's and women's shoes, leather shoes, and sneakers. He shapes the molds by carving out resin molds and adding putty.
He also keeps several old shoe lasts from countries like America and Britain as reference materials. He says that he now understands that shapes he used to question were actually designed to create beautiful creases when worn.
This shows the process of working with a wooden mold used for research. The lines of the moccasin (loafer) design are drawn onto the mold, and then it's carved out to match those lines.
If you've sanded too much or need to reshape it, you can apply putty to the surface like this and then sand it down again.
This shoe last was created specifically for these Isetan Men's original shoes. While incorporating fitting elements, it could easily have resulted in an oblique shape, but they managed to create a shoe with a dress shoe feel.
Last making, which evolved from bespoke shoemaking. — Yugo Hayano
Yugo Hayano
After working in a Japanese shoe workshop where he was involved in handmade shoemaking, he traveled to England to learn last making, studying under Stephen Lowe. Upon returning to Japan, he started "Bepoke Shoe Works Yuigo Hayano." In addition to bespoke shoes, he also creates lasts for various shops and brands.
While Mr. Matsuda, mentioned earlier, was a shoe last maker who produced lasts for ready-made shoes, the other last for these original shoes is made by a craftsman with a different background. Yugo Hayano is a last maker, meaning he is a craftsman who is primarily responsible for making lasts for bespoke (made-to-order) shoes. In the world of bespoke shoes, especially in the UK, shoemaking is often done by division of labor. There are roughly four types of craftsmen: the last maker who carves the last to fit the foot, the pattern maker who creates the pattern for cutting the leather, the closer who sews the cut leather for the upper, and the bottom maker who lasts the upper onto the last and attaches the sole. Among these, the last maker is the one who measures the customer's foot, takes their order, and then makes the last and other parts accordingly, playing a fundamental role in bespoke shoemaking. In addition to making his own bespoke shoes, Mr. Hayano also uses his skills and techniques as a last maker to create lasts for ready-made shoes.
Originally a bespoke shoemaker in Japan, Mr. Hayano traveled to England to learn last-making, where he apprenticed under Stephen Lowe, who was then the last maker at John Lobb, a bespoke shoe shop in London's St. James's. After returning to Japan and establishing his own business, he has since been involved in creating house lasts for custom-made shoe shops and also working on lasts for ready-made shoe manufacturers.
"While my approach to creating shoe lasts for bespoke shoes and for ready-made shoes differs, the process of creating the last is the same."
This is what Mr. Hayano says. He carves out wooden molds from blocks of hornbeam wood or roughly carved wooden molds called rough turns, using large cutting tools called bench knives and files. It is woodworking work, just as the name "wooden mold" suggests.
"Bespoke shoe lasts are made to fit the customer's feet, so even if they are uneven or have differences between the left and right shoes, that's a result of the fitting and, in a sense, their individuality. Furthermore, with handmade shoes, adjustments can be made through the shoe's construction. However, with ready-made shoes, the materials and structure that make up the shoe are standardized, and the process is predetermined, so we are conscious of that and aim for a smooth shape. However, the shape and the measurements of each part reflect our experience in creating shoe lasts with our customers up until now."
Yugo Hayano carves the shoe last. Even with lasts for ready-made shoes, he carves them using the same methods as for bespoke shoes.
Various types of files used for shaping wooden patterns. Many of them are old ones made of cast steel.
A work bench. It was apparently made by Mr. Hayano himself to be easy to use.
A block of hornbeam wood is being carved using a large bladed tool called a bench knife. The carving is done while watching the grain direction, ensuring the cut pieces are rounded. This bench knife is also a vintage tool.
This is the shoe last for these original shoes. The toe is slightly elongated, as per the manufacturer's request.
The presence of "hands" that create shoes from original lasts. ──PERFETTO
Perfetto
This is an original brand from a shoe manufacturer based in Matsudo, Chiba. They are known for their meticulous and careful shoemaking, leveraging their experience and skills gained from working with various brands. Their primary method is Goodyear welted construction. Recently, they have also been actively expanding overseas.
Based on the original lasts created by the aforementioned shoe last makers, shoe last manufacturers create lasts for each size, which are then used by shoe manufacturers in the actual shoemaking process. The photo below shows a production last made from a last created by Tetsuya Matsuda. It was taken at the factory of Binaseiko, the manufacturer of the shoe brand "Perfetto".
The original shoes for this collection are available in two construction methods: Goodyear welted and McKay. However, all three Goodyear welted models are made by Perfetto. When we visited, the uppers and insoles, which had already undergone lasting and welt stitching at another factory, were being fitted with shoe lasts, attached to the soles, and finished.
Perfetto shoes are known for their meticulous craftsmanship and sophisticated feel. At the workshop, skilled artisans handle several stages of the process, occasionally incorporating manual work to ensure the shoes are made with care.
For example, in the Goodyear welted construction, the cork used to fill the space between the insole and outsole is made by cutting a high-density sheet of cork and attaching it to the underside of the insole. Then, the surface of the cork is hammered by hand to conform it to the ribs and other parts of the insole, eliminating any gaps. Also, the stitching of the outsole is done using hemp thread coated with rosin as a bobbin thread, which is then allowed to dry naturally before proceeding to the next step.
What became clear from observing the actual work process was that the shoemaking at Perfetto is extremely authentic. Without simplifying for mass production, the process is rational, yet the essential steps and techniques required for making Goodyear welted leather shoes are maintained. While it may not be a factory with a long history like the shoemakers in Northampton, England, the shoemaking there is just as impressive.
Regarding the creation of these shoes using the original shoe last, Shinji Shimamura of Binaseiko said, "There was nothing particularly difficult about the process. We've always made shoes using various shoe lasts." These words conveyed the pride of the company, which has been responsible for making shoes for many brands.
The image shows someone hammering a cork sheet, which has been used as a filling material. This manual process, rather than using a machine, allows for precise control of the hammering.
Check the shape of both sides and make sure they are in the same condition before attaching the bottom.
This shows the process of stitching the sole. Attaching the channeled sole with fine stitching is considered a high-grade technique overseas.
The channeling of the sole can also be done manually in this way.
The process involves wetting the sole and smoothing the edges with sandpaper. Carefully work through the process, changing the grit of the sandpaper as needed.
After the sole stitching is done, the channel is closed, and then the surface is smoothed by hand using a hammer.
The finishing touches, such as coloring the soles, are also done by hand.
Two new everyday shoes have been created.
ISETAN MEN'S by Perfetto
This "Daily Shoes" project pursues cost-effective shoes that can be used in everyday business attire. These shoes are from Isetan Men's, produced by Perfetto, an original brand of Binaseiko, a shoe manufacturer that handles shoes for numerous brands. Despite the reasonable price of 30,000 yen, they feature a solid construction using the Goodyear welted method and an elegant round-toe silhouette created by an original last.
A classic straight-tip shoe with five eyelets. A versatile style. ¥32,400
An elegant model featuring perforations on the toe cap. ¥32,400
Plain derby shoes with just the right amount of casualness. A versatile shoe that suits any style. ¥32,400
ISETAN MEN'S by madras
Madras, one of Japan's leading long-established shoe manufacturers, has created an Isetan Men's original "daily shoes" at the remarkably low price of 20,000 yen. Utilizing madras 's signature Goodyear welt construction, these shoes offer a light and comfortable fit. The smart, rounded toe last was modified specifically for this original design. The elegant silhouette, reflecting the shape of the last, speaks to the quality of the shoemaking technique. The upper has a refined texture.
Slightly long-nosed straight-tip shoes. A smart and sophisticated look. Swan-neck style stitching. ¥21,600
This model features perforations on the cap and lace stay. ¥21,600
These plain-toe shoes have a smart last silhouette that gives them an elegant impression. ¥21,600
Photo: Kazuhiro Shiraishi
Text: Yukihiro Sugawara
*All prices include tax.
inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
03-3352-1111 (main representative)
For inquiries via email, please click here.
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