2019.06.11 update

The exclusive tailor for Italian tailor BRIONI talks about the ultimate in tailoring.

From ready-to-wear to bespoke, BRIONI is a menswear couture house possessing the world's finest Italian hand-tailoring techniques. Suits crafted through 220 processes by skilled artisans continue to be beloved by celebrities worldwide.


Brioni Tailor
Ken Nanba
Katashi Namba: From 1996, he worked for seven years at a long-established tailor in Ginza, handling everything from alterations to cutting and sewing for full bespoke garments. From 2006, he became a tailor at Brioni Ginza, handling everything from suggesting alterations to serving VIPs. From October 2017, he became the first brand-exclusive tailor at a department store, permanently stationed at Isetan Shinjuku.

From ready-to-wear to bespoke, a philosophy of uncompromising craftsmanship.


Brioni is in a class of its own. It possesses the finest techniques and materials for ready-to-wear clothing, unmatched by others. While other luxury fashion houses also offer a bespoke service where a garment is tailored based on a set of sample garments, Brioni stands out significantly from the rest in its commitment to this service. The bespoke service, which fully reflects the customer's preferences, is at the level of full bespoke tailoring. Mr. Nanba, the exclusive tailor at Brioni Isetan, says:

"With Brioni, we can often make alterations that are difficult with typical pattern-order services. We've even made some alterations that are only possible with full bespoke orders available through our pattern-order service. It's not that we possess any special skills; it's just that all of our skills are at a high level. And we want to meet our customers' requests as much as possible without compromising Brioni's style."



In recent years, many factories have tended to cut down on processes or shorten production times to increase production efficiency in order to reduce costs and shorten delivery times. However, Brioni remains committed to its own unique manufacturing methods. In fact, the time spent making a single suit has increased by 35 minutes compared to about 20 years ago. The bespoke service offers more than 800 types of fabrics, and all processes are carried out in Italy, the home country of Brioni.


"Brioni's artisans learn their skills at Brioni's tailoring school, Scuola di Alta Sartoria, in Penne, Italy, before joining the workshop. Some workshops employ two generations of the same family, and most of the staff are from the village of Penne where the school is located; there are very few foreigners. And almost all of the seamstresses are women. It is only when their hands, culture, and environment come together that a Brioni garment is completed."



It is said that even if you deconstruct a Brioni garment, create a pattern, prepare similar materials and accessories, and sew it with the same stitch count, you cannot produce Brioni . What defines Brioni 's "essence" is not just the design, patterns, and materials, but everything in its background, from the workshop and techniques to the skill of the craftsmen. This uncompromising approach to craftsmanship is what makes Brioni considered "exceptional."


Free on-site service where a tailor will come to the customer's desired location.


Another thing that sets Brioni apart is its "home service." Upon request, a tailor will travel to your home, hotel, or office to take on custom orders or provide maintenance services for your existing Brioni . There is no charge for this travel service.

"We know our long-time Brioni customers, and we sometimes offer suggestions while looking at their wardrobes at their homes. Some of these customers still wear models that are no longer available as ready-to-wear. Brioni keeps all the patterns for past models, so we can tailor them if requested."


The current core model in Brioni 's lineup is the "Brunico." While they sometimes suggest the "Brunico" to customers who have previously favored the "Palatino" or "Nomentano," some customers still request the previous models. Brioni is happy to accommodate such requests as well.

"We've updated our ready-made suit models to keep up with the times, and we've also increased the number of jacket, trouser, and coat models that younger people can wear. We've seen an increase in younger customers than before, and with the establishment of our Smart Bespoke production system that allows for short-term delivery, we now have a system in place that can deliver in just over two months. It's pattern order, yet not just pattern order, and we hope that people will feel more comfortable using Brioni 's unique appeal."




As she said this, she slightly adjusted the angle of the laurel wreath lapel pin adorning her collar. She explained that it was a lucky charm that had been featured in the collection since last season. The laurel, an evergreen tree that remains green all year round, symbolizes "youth" because its leaves never wither, and the laurel wreath woven from the branches of young laurel trees is considered a symbol of "victory" and "honor." That motif eloquently spoke of the meaning behind wearing Brioni .



Brioni Home Services
Our "Home Service" offers a range of services, from bespoke orders where Brioni -exclusive skilled tailor visits your home or any other location of your choice to take measurements, select fabrics, and discuss styles, to ready-made suits and leisure wear, as well as alteration consultations. For customers who wish to order bespoke, we will bring fabric samples and take measurements on the spot while discussing your preferences. For customers who prefer ready-made items, we will ask about your preferences and size in advance, and you can purchase them at the location we visit on the day of the service. We also offer consultations regarding alterations and care for items previously purchased from Brioni .


Photo: Natsuko Okada
Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 4th Floor = Men's Luxury / Brioni
03-3352-1111 (main representative)