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2019.06.11 update

[Feature] What is the secret behind the sandals called "JOJO Naitou," born from time-honored virtues?

Gion Naitou, a footwear shop that has been operating for over 140 years in Kyoto's Gion district, near the World Heritage site of Kennin-ji Temple, is known for its custom-made zori sandals. However, in the fashion world today, it is attracting attention as an unconventional footwear shop that, despite its long history, is also making a name for itself as a cutting-edge presence. Its true identity is JOJO Naitou. They have reimagined the beautifully parabolic thongs, universal functionality, and structural beauty of zori sandals into a new form of sandal.

In mid-May, I visited a shop in Kyoto City that has been designated a historically significant building and retains its original appearance from when it was founded, in an attempt to uncover the origins of Jojo Naito's concept.


"Due to the frontage tax, the eaves of buildings are made narrow, which is the Kyoto style. People thought about how to make the most of the depth of the buildings, and that naturally became a form of practical wisdom."
The person who said this is the proprietress of "Gion Naito" and the mother of the 5th generation head of the family, Seiji Naito.



Upon entering the shop, you'll find a customer service area at the front, and beyond a curtain, you'll find the area where the sandals are made.
The challenge lies in how to efficiently utilize the uniquely Kyoto "eel's bed" (a metaphor for a building or space that is narrow in width and deep in depth), which is not exactly easy to use. For example, you can see that the high ceilings, the way the stairs are constructed, and the orientation of the drawers are just some of the clever design features that have been honed over many years to make the space more comfortable.

As someone who describes himself as a "craftsman-merchant" (someone who combines the roles of craftsman and merchant), this floor plan makes perfect sense. The time he spends naturally honing his skills as both a craftsman and a merchant is what creates both inheritance and change.



A corridor where the past and present naturally intertwine.

During the interview, I saw the shop manager, who makes the sandals, quickly pass by me and head to the JOJO workshop in the semi-basement. He was taking the smallest details, such as the thongs, toe straps, and soles, that had been created from each customer's custom orders, and using them to develop new ideas.
"Unlike a fully bespoke order, a custom-made item is something where the shop listens to the customer's requests and then makes a selection based on those requests."

This was distinct from a fully custom-made product where the customer's detailed requests were accommodated exactly as specified.




Each pair of sandals is custom-made for each customer, taking into account various factors such as their appearance, occupation, and intended use. Every insight gained during this process is then incorporated into the creation of JOJO sandals.

However, the challenges of new materials and new ideas that arose during the production of JOJO are also reflected in the making of zori sandals. Two types of footwear born in different eras easily intersect and constantly evolve through friendly competition. It felt as if each seemingly ordinary task was bringing them closer to creating new footwear that will shape the next era.


Sandals from ¥24,840

"Neo JOJO" has evolved even further.

"The previous JOJO shoes had some issues, such as taking about three full days to finish one pair, including drying time for the glue, and the shoes themselves being heavy. But these issues have disappeared since we switched to the new type. If I had to name it, I'd call it 'Neo JOJO' (laughs)."
As Daichi Koike, who is in charge of production for JOJO, explains, by changing to a manufacturing method that uses as little adhesive as possible, production time has been shortened, repairs have become easier, and environmental considerations have been made by reducing waste. The thickness of the sole and the material composition have also been improved, making them lighter and significantly more durable. As a by-product, a new menu has been added that allows for on-the-spot customization according to the customer's requests.


If a craftsman is present in the shop, they can even make minor adjustments to the thongs. By incorporating this standard sandal-making process into the JOJO structure, they've made it possible to adjust the fit to each customer better than before.
Jojo was born from sandals, and Jojo is becoming closer to sandals. In the same way, sandals are becoming closer to Jojo.

The distance between the two pairs of shoes, carelessly placed in the corner of the shop, is now zero.




Related articles
・[Interview] The return of Japonisme—What is "JOJO Naitou," the "new sensation" sandal created by "Naitou," a long-established footwear craftsman in Kyoto's Gion district?
Three people who love the innovative sandals "JOJO Naitou," born in Gion, share their unique "passions" and ways of wearing them.


Event Information

JoJo Night Promotion

□Wednesday, June 12th to Thursday, June 27th
□ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
*A "Custom Order Event" will be held from June 13th (Thu) to 18th (Tue) ( details here ).

Photo & Text: ISETAN MEN'S net

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
03-3352-1111 (main representative)

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