2018.12.15 update

[Special Feature] Makers of Kobe Vol. 3: Bellago | Heart-touching craftsmanship - What is the beautiful "presence" that Bellago creates?

Loving their city and pouring their passion into craftsmanship—Kobe, along with Yokohama, was one of the first port cities to flourish and open itself to the world, fostering its own unique culture. In this city that has risen again after the earthquake, we visited three groups of creators who are dedicated to their craft.


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A strong resolve born from perseverance


For Ryu Ushio, the designer and craftsman of Bellago, it was inevitable that he would set up a shop and workshop in Kobe 15 years ago, with the desire to "complete the manufacturing process within my own reach."

"My passion for leather goods began when my sister gave me a bucket-shaped shoulder bag when I was around 20 years old. It was a mass-produced item, but for some reason I loved the size, the thick shoulder strap, and the vegetable-tanned leather. That's when I started studying bag making."


For Ushio, whose mother was a shoe upper maker and who had been around sewing machines since childhood, making things was not something special, but rather something that was naturally close at hand. After graduating from school, he apprenticed with a bag maker in Kobe and acquired basic skills. Later, when his mentor retired, he started his own brand.

"I learned more from my mentor about attitude than about the technical aspects of manufacturing. Once I decided on something, I realized that immersing myself in it was the only thing I was capable of..."

Ushio says that making things in Kobe is like being on the brink of disaster. When he first became independent, he used his home as a workshop and made bags while taking orders from individuals. His determination to "just do it" has always been at the core of his work, and even now he continues to relentlessly pursue making things that he himself can be proud of.


We want to deliver products that are comfortable to use right now.


"When you're learning how to make things, you inevitably become obsessed with technical details, and no matter what product you look at, your eyes are drawn to the stitching, the edges, and so on. But once you get past that stage, you start to see the 'presence' that a bag or wallet should have."

While acknowledging that the right use of materials, precise sewing techniques, and overall balance are essential conditions for a "good product," the key word given to Bellago was "presence."


Multi-purpose case "Platico" 19,440 yen
This design, born from a customer request for a compact wallet that could separate bills, cards, and coins, features a three-compartment structure with internal dividers. The unique design, with zippers on both the top and bottom of the case, is also characteristic of Bellago.


"Of course, things that can be used for a lifetime are great, but I think there's also a need for things that you want to use 'now.' Aging, developing character, and becoming attached to them are all important, of course, but for me, the most important thing is the 'presence' that feels comfortable in that moment. It's not enough to just rely on materials and technology. I want to create things that feel comfortable right now, rather than relying on others like that."

He said, raising his voice.

As societal changes constantly alter what we possess and what we hold within us, Bellago continues to create products that adapt to these evolving needs. Their unwavering commitment to counter change with change, though not explicitly stated, is easily discernible in each and every Bellago product.


What Bellago aims for


The Bellago shop and workshop is located down an alleyway not far from Motomachi Station in Kobe. Here, almost all items are made by Ushio and his female assistant.

"I don't have any problem with mass production, but the quality will suffer."

We asked him directly, "What is Bellago aiming for?"

"I'm into form-based designs."

"Whether it's a bag or a wallet, the more carefully you make it, the more subdued the overall feel becomes, and the more subdued it looks. That's the difficult part. Because I handle both bespoke and ready-made items, I'm always mindful of that balance. Bespoke work is interesting in terms of pure craftsmanship because it makes me realize that."


Coin case: 10,800 yen
The standard jewelry box-shaped coin case is now available in a compact size, a special edition made exclusively for Isetan Shinjuku.



Key case "KP" 17,280 yen
This adorable bell-shaped key case features a simple design where you pull a string and fasten it with a snap.


No matter how much times change, if Bellago continues to adapt to those changes and express the atmosphere of "now" through its presence, that will become Bellago's identity.

He also spoke about his own approach to manufacturing.

"I want to create a Bellago empire (everyone laughs). I believe that technology is a means of expression, so I want to create a Bellago style and make interesting things within that framework," he said.

As Ushio responded with a smile and a touch of humor, his gaze was already fixed on a new "demeanor."


Related article ▶ [Feature] Craftspeople of Kobe



Photo & Text: ISETA MEN'S net

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