We asked a leather professional about how to care for your leather bag so that it will last a long time.
When you buy new shoes, you think about purchasing "care products" at the same time, but when you buy a bag, you don't think about care items—if you've just realized this, we'd like to suggest "bag care." We learned various care techniques from Makoto Saito of R&D Co., Ltd., which handles the shoe care brand M.MOWBRAY .
Basic care instructions
The importance of leather care becomes clear when you think of it in terms of how it's treated for human skin.
Saito: Lately, we've been getting more and more inquiries from customers who have purchased new bags about how to care for the leather.This is according to Makoto Saito of R&D Co., Ltd., which handles the shoe care brand M.MOWBRAY . We asked Mr. Saito about leather bag care techniques.
"Leather care is often compared to 'skincare.' Just like human skin, leather will dry out if left untreated. When it dries out, the surface hardens and becomes more prone to problems. Basic skincare, such as washing your face and then applying moisture and nutrients, is becoming quite widespread among men, so I think the procedure will be easy to understand. Proper care will enhance the inherent beauty of the leather, so I hope you'll make it a habit."
Ikezawa: Because of my job, I often find myself looking at men's business bags on the train during my commute, and I frequently see bags with dry, cracked leather. It's strange, isn't it, since both shoes and bags are made of leather? Can I assume that bag care is the same as shoe care?
Saito : Yes, I think the procedure of brushing the entire surface to remove dust and dirt, then removing dirt with a remover, nourishing it with cream, and finally applying a waterproofing spray is a familiar one.
Ikezawa Leather's care is often compared to "skincare," isn't it?
Saito: That's right. Just like human skin, leather will dry out if you don't take care of it. When it dries out, the surface hardens and becomes more prone to problems.
Ikezawa: Basic skincare, which involves washing your face and then applying moisture and nutrients, has become quite widespread among men, so I think the procedure will be easy for them to understand.
Saito: If you take good care of your leather, its natural charm will increase. I hope you'll make leather care a regular habit so that it ages beautifully.
Bags, wallets, and business card holders all require care.
- Care Procedure
① First, remove dust and debris with a horsehair brush.② Take a small amount of "Cream Essential" onto a cloth and gently wipe evenly over the area.③ Brush again to bring out the shine.④ Wipe dry with a soft cloth or glove cloth.
Saito : "First, to care for your bag, prepare a horsehair brush and cream. There are various types of brushes, such as those made from horse, pig, or goat hair, but basically, horsehair is fine. Horsehair has fine, dense bristles that are soft yet have just the right amount of elasticity, making it suitable for removing dust from the texture of leather and the gaps between stitching threads. Pig bristles are hard and have gaps between them, making them suitable for cleaning dirt from the edges and soles of shoes."
Saito Cream is M. MOWBRAY's Cream Essential. It's the brand's signature natural lotion for leather, providing moisturizing properties and a moderate shine, so it nourishes the leather while removing dirt.
I'm worried that the color of the Ikezawa leather might fade...
The residue is simply a combination of the leather's natural oils and dyes, not the dye itself. However, some hand-dyed or post-dyed leathers are delicate, so be sure to check the care instructions when purchasing.
Ikezawa: Just like with shoes, it's important to first test the cream on an inconspicuous area. Is a horsehair brush best?
Saito: There are many types of brushes made from horse, pig, and goat hair, but horsehair is fine. It can be used on suede, but for suede, I recommend using a rubber brush like the ones used for shoes and a suede-specific conditioning spray.
Ikezawa: Also, for cordovan leather, please use the special cream "Cordovan Cream Renovator." In addition to color restoration, nourishment, and polishing of cordovan, it can also be used for color restoration and polishing of glass leather. It can also be used on bridle leather. Apply a thin layer and brush to bring out the shine.
*Depending on the condition and texture of the leather, color transfer may occur, so please be careful when using it.
A moisturizing cream that enhances the texture of leather without adding shine.
You'll also want to have a "delicate cream" on hand for moisturizing. It contains a lot of moisture and less oil, so it helps to preserve the leather's natural texture while keeping the shine subdued. Although it doesn't contain any cleaning agents, gently applying the cream to the surface of the leather will also help to wipe away surface dirt.
The frequency of maintenance depends on how often you use your bag, but if you use it every day, once a month is recommended. Proper maintenance will help preserve the texture of the leather, resulting in a beautiful aged look.
Troubleshooting Guide
Can fingerprints and other stains be removed?
The surface of a bag can get quite dirty without you even realizing it. The edges can become black with fingerprints, or stains can appear without you noticing. It's common knowledge to use a cleaner to remove dirt from shoes, but we've been introduced to a cleaner that can also be used to remove dirt from bags.
"At M. MOWBRAY, we use stain-cleansing water. It removes old cream oils and other residue from the surface of the leather, improving breathability. After that, apply cream to nourish it. The purpose of removing dirt from leather is to remove dirt that is clogged in the pores. To use a human skincare analogy, it's like removing makeup and returning to a bare state. Just as you apply cream to the leather of new shoes before wearing them for the first time, the same applies to bags. Since there is time between the time the product is made and when it reaches the customer's hands, think of the leather not as bare, but more like sensitive skin. Basic care such as brushing and applying cream before use is all you need. It can also be used on the white stains (salt) that seep out of shoes and bags after they get wet in the rain."
I want to take extra care to prevent water damage in addition to the basic care.
We just heard about your experience with getting wet in the rain, and it's important to take care of your leather goods beforehand to protect them from the rain. Natural cowhide leather has areas that are more susceptible to water absorption than others, and when it gets wet, the boundary between these areas tends to become uneven. Applying cream beforehand to prepare the leather and then spraying it with a waterproof (water-repellent) spray will make it less susceptible to damage.
"I recommend M. MOWBRAY's spray-type leather conditioner, Nappa Care Soft Leather Nourishing and Waterproofing (Water-Repellent) Spray. This spray contains waterproofing (water-repellent) ingredients, so simply spraying it all over will provide both leather care and waterproofing (water-repellent) effects. It dries quickly, so you can use it before going out."
Another product, Protector Alpha Large All-Purpose Water-Repellent and Stain-Resistant Spray, is useful not only for preventing water damage but also for caring for items after they get wet in the rain. This spray can be used on a wide range of materials, including leather and fabric. It protects against rain, snow, dust, dirt, oil, and other stains, providing both waterproofing (water-repellent) and stain-resistant effects. It can be used on shoes and bags, and even umbrellas during heavy rain.
The areas that rub against each other may have started to fade.
Over time, some people may notice that the color of leather products fades in areas that come into contact with the body, revealing the underlying leather color, or that the color fades due to sun exposure. While it's true that the color of leather can come off slightly due to the natural oils in the leather, the dye itself won't directly bleed away. However, some hand-dyed or post-dyed leather products are delicate, so be sure to check the care instructions when purchasing.
"When the edges of the leather, such as the corners of the bag, become damaged and the color fades, you can somewhat cover it up by applying commercially available repair cream. However, even if you find a cream that matches the color of the leather product, the color and texture will change with use, so it may be difficult for the average person to repaint it to the exact same color. If the item is heavily used and scratched, or if the surface of the leather is worn down and the color has faded, it will be difficult to repair it yourself. In such cases, please take it to a professional leather repair shop."
It started to crack after drying out.
If it's just a little damaged or scratched, you might be able to accept it as adding to the unique "character" of your well-used item. However, if you neglect its care and the surface dries out and cracks, it's no longer something that will develop character.
"For minor cracks or wrinkles, a nourishing cream can sometimes improve the condition. Carefully apply the cream to the hard, dry leather with a brush or cloth, wipe it off with a dry cloth, let it sit for 2-3 days to allow the oil to penetrate, and then repeat the process several times. If it's completely cracked, take it to a repair shop. Before that happens, make sure to regularly check all parts of the surface."
I let mold grow on my precious bag.
You might find that your expensive bag has grown moldy, even if you use it regularly, or you might suddenly notice mold growing on it. Ideally, you should take care of it as soon as possible before mold grows, but if mold does appear, leave it to the professionals.
"If it's just a light white mold growing on the surface of the bag, you can sometimes revive it by thoroughly removing the mold with a mold remover and then applying a nourishing cream. Do not use alcohol, as it can remove the color from the leather. Mold that has taken root deep into the leather fibers is difficult to treat. If you try scrubbing the mold with a brush and the marks don't disappear, take it to a repair shop as soon as possible."
When storing bags, to prevent mold, remove dust and dirt first, and then store them in a place with minimal temperature fluctuations and low humidity. Lower areas of closets tend to accumulate moisture, so a higher place is safer. Storing them in the cloth bag they came in is also a good idea, as it minimizes sudden changes in humidity and temperature.
Photo & Text: ISETAN MEN'S net
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