2018.02.09 update

[Interview] Paolo Finamore | The Devotion of His Second Son, Paolo(1/2)

While preserving the culture of handcrafted work, they made its appeal accessible to everyone. On top of that, they explored the designs that the current market demands. The sons entrusted with the Neapolitan shirt brand Finamore took an extremely straightforward, cautious approach. What was unexpected was that the designs of the second son, Paolo, were so innovative that they were copied.


"That's an impossible future."


The Finamore workshop employs approximately 50 seamstresses. Recently, the average age has been reduced to 45. From mother to daughter, the system of passing down the craft through generations has been maintained thanks to the Finamore family's deep roots in Naples and their beloved status as prominent figures among the people who live there. However, even this is by no means secure. Even in Naples, the city of artisans, the shortage of successors is becoming a serious problem.

When I asked if outsourcing might be an option in the long run, Paolo, the second son of the second-generation Alberto Finamore and a designer himself, was the only one that spoke with such emphasis that day.

"Because Neapolitan craftsmanship is the identity of Finamore."

The armholes determine the fit, the buttons and gussets require durability. Finamore still finishes these three areas by hand (for casual shirts; dress shirts have seven areas). This handwork is so important that it could be called their identity, but they say it's only the foundation for succeeding in this tough market.


"In Naples, everyone understands the importance of handcrafted work and has deepened their level of maturity. I believe our success in the market stems from expanding its possibilities through the development of new patterns."

The narrow shoulders and high sleeve cap create a sexy silhouette. This bold design redefines the concept of a shirt. The secret to its sharp appearance without sacrificing comfort lies, of course, in the handcrafted details.

"I perfected that pattern about 15 years ago. It was right around the time when fashion was undergoing a shift. As you know, construction, exemplified by unstructured clothing, compact sizing, and the trend of dressing down without needing a tie became prominent."


Paolo also worked on the collar, which could be considered the face of the shirt. This proved to be a pleasant surprise. The collar, with its soft floating interlining and pointed ends that flowed backward, was full of dynamism, as if it were about to move at any moment. This collar, known as a cutaway, became so popular that it spawned imitators. Sergio, and its successor, Simone, began to gain recognition in Japan as well.

Furthermore, Paolo has washed the delicate 120-count double-ply yarn fabric and created a wide variety of check patterns. These shirts, which look great with a tie or even worn casually with the buttons open, have transcended the office district.

Shirts created by NEXT Customer