A talk event for readers of the lifestyle information website "NIKKEI STYLE," titled "NIKKEI STYLE Men's Fashion Salon ~When Fashion Changes, Business Changes Too~," was held at Isetan Salone Men's in Marunouchi. At the event, Kaori Nakano, a fashion historian and specially appointed professor at Meiji University's School of International Japanese Studies, and Hitoshi Hirakata, editor-in-chief of NIKKEI STYLE Men's fashion channel, discussed "Misconceptions and Truths Surrounding Suits."

Kaori Nakano is a fashion historian and specially appointed professor at the Faculty of International Japanese Studies, Meiji University. She holds a master's degree from the University of Tokyo and is a former visiting researcher at the University of Cambridge. She researches, writes, and lectures on a wide range of topics, from the history of men's and women's fashion to the latest trends. Her numerous publications include "50 Masterpieces for Gentlemen" (Shogakukan) and "Fashion, Eros, and Capital" (Shueisha Shinsho). Official website: http://www.kaori-nakano.com

The fundamentals of suits begin with understanding their history.

Did you know that suits have a birthday? Their birthday is October 7, 1666, and the setting is England. 351 years ago on October 7, King Charles II of England issued the "Declaration of Clothing Reform." It essentially said, "I have decided to adopt a new set of clothing. This clothing will never be changed again," and this declaration gave birth to the "suit system."

The court attire was completely redesigned, giving rise to the prototype of the three-piece suit: a long-sleeved jacket, trousers worn underneath (shorts), a vest, a shirt, and a tie. Long trousers were not worn as trousers until after the French Revolution. Incidentally, men at that time wore makeup, high heels, and shirts with lots of lace.

The reason we know the exact date of October 7, 1666, is because the declaration of clothing reform is recorded in the diary of a man named Samuel Pepys, which also states, "The vest will be introduced. This will be clothing that teaches the nobility to be frugal."

The system of jacket (coat) + vest + trousers + shirt + tie was born on October 7, 1666, which is considered the "birthday of the suit," and it has been passed down through generations, albeit in modified forms, to this day.

Kaori Nakano and Hitoshi Hirakata, editor-in-chief of NIKKEI STYLE Men's fashion channel.

Why a "Declaration of Clothing Reform" was necessary in the mid-17th century

The reason King Charles II of England declared a "clothing reform" was that Britain had been plagued by disasters, with the plague raging in 1665 and the Great Fire of London the following year. To avoid criticism directed at the already slovenly British king, he declared that he would "start reforming menswear" as a visually appealing way to promote court reform.

The key element of the king's declaration of clothing reform was the vest, and from then on, vests became an essential part of suits, leading to the idea that "a suit is only a suit because of the vest." Initially, the vest was intended to promote frugality by using expensive fabrics only in visible areas, but it gradually transformed into a luxury item, like the vest of Louis XIV of the French Bourbon dynasty, which was adorned with 16 jewels.

A remnant of this tradition is the odd vest, often worn at weddings, where bright colors are preferred.

"50 Masterpieces for Gentlemen," a book by Kaori Nakano based on her series "Choosing Gentlemen's Items" published in the magazine "Sarai," is packed with content, divided into four chapters: "Things that Make Up Your Appearance," "Essential Accessories," "Things that Enhance Love and Relaxation," and "Japanese Elegance and Spirit."

The prototype of the modern suit and the birth of the dress code

The suits you are wearing today are based on the "lounge suit" of the mid-19th century. At that time, men wore formal attire such as frock coats during the day, and when relaxing in a lounge, they wore comfortable clothes without darts to cinch the waist. Furthermore, the rise of the middle class accompanying the progress of the Industrial Revolution led to the emergence of "dress codes."

Dress codes arose as a way for the middle class, who had become involved in politics and economics alongside the aristocracy (the previous ruling class), to conduct their work and social interactions smoothly without being discriminated against based on their clothing. They also reflected the rationalistic idea that "everyone is on equal footing in the business world."

As Britain expanded its colonies during the Industrial Revolution, it spread the combination of English, suits, and gentlemanly conduct throughout the world. Japan, influenced by this trend, decided to adopt Western clothing in a cabinet meeting in 1871. This perfectly captured the globalism of the time, with the idea of "wearing the clothes that are worn all over the world."