2017.01.25 update

[Interview] Anna Matuzzo, Naples' premier shirtmaker | Needle, thread, and dedication.

Anna Matuzzo is Naples' foremost shirtmaker. While she undoubtedly possessed natural talent, the reason she received such praise is, above all, because making shirts was her life's work. Even London House recognized her skill.


Related Article : The Joy of Bespoke - [Interview] Anna Matuzzo x Buyer Takumi Sato
- The "Rubinacci" model is being re-released after approximately 40 years.
・A must-see for fans! Ready-made models are finally available at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building
Choose a style from a top-notch shirt workshop in Naples and have it tailored with Carlo Riva, the jewel of shirt fabrics.

Anna's studio is in an old apartment building overlooking the sea in Naples.

Upon opening the door, the first thing that catches your eye is the sheer volume of fabric rolls crammed onto the wall shelves. Almost all of them are from Carlo Riva and David & John Anderson, widely considered among the world's finest. Isetan Men's buyer, Takumi Sato, sighed, saying he had never seen such a large collection of both brands in one atelier.

Fine-gauge cotton is too delicate to withstand machine sewing. While hand-sewing is the norm, Anna's workshop, with its small, local feel, doesn't offer large quantities. For fabric manufacturers, however, the small orders are more than compensated for by the workshop's undeniable appeal.


The highlight of Neapolitan shirts is their hand-stitching. They don't restrict body movement, instead conforming flexibly to the body—this benefit is directly felt in a shirt that touches the skin. This characteristic of the shirt, along with other factors, allowed the culture of hand-stitching to flourish. Fortunately, Naples was blessed with skilled craftsmen capable of carrying on this culture. A product of economic inequality has blossomed beautifully.

Anna stands out from the crowd, even reaching the pinnacle, because she knows the essentials of shirtmaking better than anyone else. This is evident even in her production system.



"Currently, we have seven people working in the workshop. They're all women. Of course, we don't mind if men work here, but it's a job that requires delicacy and patience."

Anna is a shirtmaker whom London House, considered the originator of Neapolitan tailoring, treated with respect and entrusted with the shirt department for a long time. There is no way that the team she has thoroughly trained, whom she saw potential in, could be lacking. But even more important than that is her role as a spiritual pillar.

A needle and thread. Dedication—this phrase, which appears repeatedly on the official website, signifies that shirtmaking was synonymous with Anna's life, and her pride permeates every corner of her atelier.



23 years as a shirtmaker at London House

Anna began helping out at her aunt's shirt workshop when she was nine years old. It's a bit hard to imagine for us living in modern Japan, but it was a common sight in Naples.

"I worked until summer started, and then I worked again when summer ended. What? Summer? Summer is for having fun! (laughs)"

It's incredibly difficult for a child to persevere with mundane tasks, but for this Neapolitan girl, working wasn't about earning a tip; it was about survival. Giving up wasn't an option. It's easier to understand if you imagine the shoe-shining boys in post-war Japan. They gritted their teeth and polished shoes to feed their younger siblings. After graduating from elementary school, Anna dedicated herself to her aunt's workshop. Five years later, when Anna was 17, her aunt closed the workshop. London House was the next place she chose to work.

"Rubinacci (the owner of London House) was looking for a craftsman at the time. I took the test and passed on the first try."

Anna remained at London House for the next 23 years.


"I worked from early in the morning until 9 or 10 at night. So I couldn't do anything around the house. My in-laws took care of raising the child. They didn't have any other grandchildren, so they doted on her like a precious jewel."

The vibrant gathers, symbolized by the "manica camicia" style, and the drapery that appears like ripples on the water, give off a rich fragrance. Every part of the shirts that touch the skin is hand-stitched. Including the straight lines that would normally be sewn with a sewing machine, there are a total of 13 hand-stitched sections.

"You just made up the number of hand points; I've never really thought about it. I just hand-sew the necessary parts to ensure comfort and a nice look. The most important thing is the sleeve cap."

Anna, who was renowned at London House, possessed remarkable talent not only in her exquisite handiwork but also in her ability to create patterns that suited people of all races. By working with discerning customers from around the world, her innate sewing skills were honed, and at the same time, she grasped the intricacies of bespoke tailoring.


At Anna's studio, which she opened when she turned 40, all three of her beloved daughters are present. Her eldest daughter, Simona, does the cutting, her second daughter, Romina, does the sewing, and her youngest daughter, Antonella, takes care of her daily needs. When asked, "Honestly, I'm sure I wasn't a good mother to you," Antonella, who accompanied Anna to Japan, replied:

"My sister and I grew up on a workbench."

Related Article : The Joy of Bespoke - [Interview] Anna Matuzzo x Buyer Takumi Sato
- The "Rubinacci" model is being re-released after approximately 40 years.
・A must-see for fans! Ready-made models are finally available at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building
Choose a style from a top-notch shirt workshop in Naples and have it tailored with Carlo Riva, the jewel of shirt fabrics.

Text: Takegawa Keiji
Photo: Okada Natsuko

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Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1st Floor = Dress Shirts & Ties
03-3352-1111 (main representative)