Instead of settling for a ready-made coat, why not have one custom-made? Let's indulge in this ultimate luxury right now.


Just because the necessity of suits in business has decreased doesn't mean that the demand for suits themselves will disappear. In fact, they will likely play an even greater role as a "costume" for self-presentation. With this in mind, Made to Measure on the 5th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building collaborates with tailors who have their own philosophy. In addition to suits, they also handle jackets and slacks, but did you know that they also accept orders for coats?

Yukihiko Hatori: We don't heavily promote it in our stores, but we subtly convey it through our displays and the flow of customer service. Often, after a customer has already ordered two or three suits, and we have a better understanding of their tastes, preferences, and style, we suggest they try on a coat next.
Those who have already acquired a certain number of suits from Osamu Nemoto often view ordering a coat as the final touch. However, there are also those who are ordering a coat for the first time and jump straight into it. These people have a clear objective. I get the impression that many of them are motivated by wanting a coat made of something other than ordinary wool or tweed, such as a camel hair coat or a cashmere coat.

Osamu Nemoto
Born in 1972. He honed his skills at Boston Tailor, a renowned shop in Shibuya, Tokyo, and after working at Tailor Kade, he opened Lid Tailor in Nishi-Ogikubo in 2006.

At Hatori Coat, most customers choose a style that matches their preferred suit style, whether it's classic Italian, British, or American. As I mentioned earlier, we often recommend coats after a customer has ordered several suits. However, if they've already ordered suits, we know their fitting preferences, which allows us to suggest the most suitable coat.
Since it's a fundamental aspect , if you're looking for a coat right away, we'll ask you in detail about how you plan to wear it. If you're going to wear it with a suit, it's best to wear a suit you like when you come in to order so we can understand your style. Also, the fitting will differ depending on whether you'll be wearing it for work or casual occasions. If you want to wear it in both situations, you'll have to assume you'll be wearing a jacket underneath. However, even that can be solved by styling, such as wearing a cashmere coat over a jacket made of the thinnest possible material, so we can offer suggestions like that as well.

The joy of having a coat made just for you

We offer a wide variety of fabrics, including those from prestigious British merchants.

— Are there any major differences between ordering a suit and ordering a coat?

In my personal opinion, a good balance would be about one coat for every ten suits. Not many men own ten coats, but if you've had a coat custom-made, you'd want it to match every suit, right? That naturally leads to charcoal gray, navy, and maybe a bit more playful with brown or light gray. Since the colors are inevitably limited, the only way to differentiate yourself is through quality. However, for those who want to have more fun, I recommend military-style Ventile fabric or a fabric with a slight pattern, even if it's still cotton.
At Hatori Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , for trench coats, which are a focus this season, we often recommend navy or black. We also consider the customer's style and work together to decide on the color and material. Fitting is especially important as everyone has different preferences, so we have them try on size gauges and make adjustments as needed. Compared to suits, there are fewer things to change, and it's mainly adjustments to the length, sleeve length, and width. However, regarding fitting, we often suggest choosing one size larger and narrowing the width for those who prefer a looser fit, or conversely, choosing one size smaller and widening the width. Currently, the delivery time is about one month after we receive an order.

You can also choose the type of buckle or button.

In the case of Nemoto coats, the most obvious advantage of ordering a custom-made coat is the ability to adjust the length. However, many brands are starting to offer that service now.
Even at Hatori , ordering allows you to pay attention to various details. For example, many people find that ready-made garments don't fit them properly in terms of sleeve length. Especially with trench coats, there's a proper position for the cuff belt, so it's not easy to alter, and it also depends on whether or not you wear gloves when wearing it. Being able to customize those aspects to your own specifications is a big advantage.
That's absolutely true. Also, even with the same trench coat, the impression changes greatly depending on whether it's double-breasted or single-breasted, or whether it's raglan or set-in sleeves. In the coats I supervised, we basically chose classic details, so there aren't any with extremely large collars or low or high lapels. But that means there's more fun in terms of combinations. For example, if it's raglan, it looks good worn oversized, or if it's set-in sleeves, it looks cool to have it fitted to the shoulders.
Hatori : For younger people, a single-breasted coat without a waist belt would be nice, too. You can wear it like a balmacaan coat.
Our main goal is for people to enjoy the process without feeling pressured. Of course, it's a bit more expensive than ready-made items, but you'll still get a coat that can be paired with any style. When versatility is a requirement, the result can sometimes be rather plain, but I think the joy of ordering lies in the process itself. I hope you'll consider the time it takes to complete the garment as part of the enjoyment.

This coat collection is supervised by Mr. Nemoto, the head of Lid Tailor. Made from cotton gabardine, it can be customized down to the smallest detail, including not only the type of front closure and shoulder straps, but also the presence or absence of epaulets and D-rings.
Lid Tailored Coat (Ready-made) from ¥140,400
*Delivery: Approximately 5 weeks later

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Made to Measure
03-3352-1111 (main representative)