The time-honored tradition of bespoke tailoring is once again in the spotlight. Leading makers and sellers share their thoughts on its appeal.

Anna Matuzzo and Mitsukoshi Isetan buyer Takumi Sato

Born in Naples, Italy in 1952. He began learning shirtmaking at the age of nine. After working at London House, he established his own company and atelier at Viale Gramsci 26 in the 1990s.

Su Misura: A second skin, distinct from ready-made shirts.

Is it an exaggeration to say that once you've had a dress shirt made to order, you can never go back to off-the-rack shirts? No. The human body is more rounded than you might imagine, and it's not perfectly symmetrical. I spoke with Anna Matuzzo in Naples, a maker of Neapolitan dress shirts who is said to be known by everyone who loves shirts.

—First of all, as a general question, what is the difference between ready-made shirts and custom-made shirts?

Matutzos Misura, or bespoke shirts, are made to order, becoming a second skin for each individual wearer, tailored to their unique physical characteristics, starting from a pattern. Ready-made shirts, on the other hand, are simply the finished product; you have to adapt your body to the shirt. Furthermore, not only is the fitting different, but several finishing processes, such as stitching, are done by hand.
In terms of Anna Matuzzo Sato 's shirts, how much of a difference is there?
While typical ready-made shirts by Anna Matutuzzo involve 3-4 handmade steps, Anna Matutuzzo's made-to-order shirts involve 13 steps.
Sato: That difference is what makes the difference in comfort, isn't it?
Matuzzo, you're absolutely right.
When creating a shirt at Sato Su Misura, what aspects do you prioritize?
This is the Matutzo cutting process. It's a crucial step in creating a shape that fits the customer's body type. We keep the customer's pattern so that it can be used for subsequent orders.

At Anna Matuzzo's studio, a total of seven people work: Anna herself, her three daughters, and three employees.

──Are there any points that customers should be aware of when placing an order?

When ordering a Matuzzo shirt, we understand that customers have specific preferences regarding the type of shirt they want. For example, it's important to let us know if you're looking for a shirt to wear as an inner layer with a suit or jacket. Since the makers are intimately familiar with their products, they can usually advise you on the perfect shirt.
Sato: It's helpful for us as makers and order takers if customers come in wearing suits or other clothing they'd like to try on. But what if the customer is a first-timer or doesn't know much about shirts?
Matuzzo, you don't need to do anything. We have absolute confidence in our abilities, so just follow our lead, and we will create a piece that you will be completely satisfied with.
Sato, those are very encouraging words.

Anna Matuzzo's shirts showcase the craftsmanship of artisans in every detail. Here, we see the sleeves being hand-sewn. The fact that the sleeve seams and side seams are not aligned in a straight line is evidence that the sleeves were attached separately.

—What makes Anna Matuzzo's shirts different from other brands?

Matuzzo's strengths lie in its cutting and softness. We are confident in our cutting, the softness of our shirts, and our fabric selection. If you choose from our selection of fabrics, we believe they are among the best in the world. The gathered cuffs are also a distinctive feature. This detail is popular with Japanese people, but not with Neapolitan men. It's strange, isn't it…?
Could you tell me the house (typical cut) of Anna Matuzzo Sato's shirts?
Matuzzo: It's difficult to choose a specific style. Usually, we have customers choose their preferred body (fit), and then we modify it. We have an exclusive collar style called "Capri," which is very popular. It's a one-piece collar shirt with minimal stitching and fabric seams. We also have the so-called "Rubinacci" model from the London House era, which we revived in collaboration with Isetan. It's a classic model with two darts on each side of the back and larger collar wings.
Sato : Suppose a customer wants something completely different from Anna Matuzzo's style. How would you handle that?
Matuzzo, that's a very difficult question. But if I like the style, I'll agree. Conversely, if I don't like it, I won't agree. Ultimately, you'll probably end up liking something from the styles we're proposing that's closest to what you want.

—Finally, what does a dress shirt mean to a man?

I think the most important item for making a good first impression at Matuzzo is the shirt. It's important to wear a high-quality shirt that fits your body properly. Many people come to us to have shirts made for special occasions like weddings. In other words, shirts are recognized as a very important item. That's why in Italy, people pay attention not only to their smoking suits (tuxedos) but also to their shirts, and many have them made to fit perfectly.

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1st Floor = Dress Shirts & Ties
03-3352-1111 (main representative)