Incorporating traditional Japanese aesthetics into Western designs—some might think this approach is overused. However, designers and products with this kind of fusion spirit and sensibility always captivate us. As proof of this, we can cite the brand Almostblack. Although it only debuted last year, it has rapidly gained recognition. In particular, it is attracting keen attention and high expectations from discerning individuals in Japan, such as select shop directors, fashion editors, and fellow designers.

Almostblack designers Shunta Nakajima (left in photo) and Masaki Kawase (right in photo)

It all began with the encounter of two "talents." Shunta Nakajima, who had experience as an assistant designer at an overseas designer brand, had a fateful encounter with Masaki Kawase, who had also honed his skills as a designer at various brands, at the apparel company where he started working after returning to Japan. "The encounter was completely by chance, but launching the brand was inevitable. Soon after meeting, I felt that we shared similar cultural backgrounds and visions for the future."


Nakajima continues: "Six months after joining the company, I was already working towards launching my own brand. I studied fashion in Paris and then worked as an assistant at a menswear brand based in Antwerp. What I strongly felt there was the low level of awareness of Japanese culture. Japonisme is sometimes featured in designs, but ultimately it's Japonisme filtered through the West, and not the real thing. There are very few people in the fashion industry who have a strong interest in Japan, and I felt a great sense of dissatisfaction."

Kawase, who had been making menswear in Japan, also had the idea of "eventually having his own brand." The two, who hit it off, began working to launch a brand that "fused Japanese culture with Western clothing." They aimed to "create clothes that have the power to create impact, or energy, when different things collide." It was as if they were tracing the waveform of the impact and energy that was generated when the two met.

From the 2015-16 Autumn/Winter Collection

It was an impactful debut collection. The 2015 Autumn/Winter collection, their first under the brand concept of "POST JAPONISM," combined the cultures they were familiar with, such as new wave and post-punk, with the artistic world of ceramic artist Yasunari Matsui, a Living National Treasure, under the theme of "WAVE." Kawase explains: "Matsui's work has a unique striped pattern. By kneading together clays of different colors and textures, he creates works with beautiful 'layers.' We expressed that layered worldview through patchwork and collage."

As a result, items were created that bridge the gap between street style and high fashion, brimming with a fresh, on-trend vibe. The artwork for the collection looks also exudes that energy. "We have many meetings before creating a collection. We bring together everything we've researched and design sketches, and exchange opinions until the image converges into one. If either of us feels, 'Ah, this isn't right,' we both back down immediately. If either of us feels it's wrong, it means it's not right for the brand," (Nakajima).



"ALMOST BLACK" means "brown." A loose translation would be "a navy that is almost black." Brown refers to a deep indigo color that looks almost black. When asked again for an explanation of the brand name, Kawase replied as follows: "From the Heian period to the Meiji era, this deep navy color was highly valued. Brown was said to be the color of 'katsu' (victory), and it was cherished as a lucky charm." Nakajima then added: "Have you ever heard of the term 'silver ratio'? Just as traditional Western beauty is explained by the golden ratio, traditional Japanese beauty is based on the silver ratio. From historical temples and shrines like Horyu-ji to tatami mats and furoshiki wrapping cloths. In fact, even Doraemon is based on the silver ratio (laughs)." The more we delved, the more fascinating Japanese culture became, and we pressed the two of them for more information.

This autumn/winter, we are focusing on the Gutai Art Association, one of the representative art movements of postwar Japan. Founded in 1954, the group was centered around the avant-garde artist Jiro Yoshihara. They rejected conventional art and sought new forms of art, such as spontaneous performances and abstract paintings that captured fleeting emotional moments.

The reason Almostblack has garnered so much attention in just two seasons is encapsulated in this one coat.


This coat features large, slits at both elbows and on the back. This design is inspired by Saburo Murakami's paper-tearing performance, presented at the first Gutai Art Exhibition in 1955. The performance involved tearing through multiple sheets of kraft paper stretched over a wooden frame. It could be described as a new frontier in layering, with the inner garment seemingly tearing through the fabric at the elbows and back. Rather than simply displaying a theme, it expresses it concretely as detail. This materialistic yet conceptual method of expression is Almostblack's strength. It usually takes courage. In fact, the factory reportedly asked, "Are you really going to cut into it?" However, they easily broke through that barrier and presented it as something new.



Just as top designers at major fashion houses continue to "challenge" the world without resting on their laurels, talented designers always shake up our values with bold attempts. You can sense a similar "good taste" from the two members of Almostblack. You could also attribute that boldness to their "youth." But whatever the reason, their clothes are cool. They are clothes that make you genuinely think, "I want to wear that!"

Regarding their products being sold at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building Kawase said, "I want people to actually see, touch, and try on our clothes and feel the excitement." He added, "I hope our clothes can be a catalyst for people to learn more about Japanese culture." Nakajima, on the other hand, modestly expressed his wish, "Our racks will be lined up on the same floor as our great predecessors. I want to be a 'rookie' who can convey to the younger generation that fashion is fun."

You are enveloped in the positive energy waves emanating from the two seekers of truth.

Text: Morishita Ryuta
Photo: Suzuki Shimpei (Interview)

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