Delving into the essence of American clothing that has been loved across generations—for this article, Nobutomo Shibata, buyer at ISETAN MEN'S , has chosen Kenichi Kusano, the designer behind KENNETH FIELD, to discuss the appeal of Double RL (RRL), which embodies the spirit of American vintage. So, what kind of conversation will unfold?

Why do I want to introduce vintage now?

Kenichi Kusano (hereinafter Kusano): Thank you for joining us today. By the way, why RRL now?
Nobutomo Shibata (hereinafter referred to as Shibata): Japanese department stores and select shops have a wide variety of brands and offer various proposals, but we wanted to deliberately emphasize a "strong individuality" here. Brands and styles that were characterized by what you might call "strong flavor" were temporarily erased by the normcore trend, but we actually wanted to appeal that "no matter what becomes popular, the fundamentals remain the same."
Kusano says that RRL is at the root of it all.
Shibata: That's right. Ralph Lauren is a timeless choice that remains relevant in any era, and I interpret RRL as a brand that directly reflects his personal preferences and carries a strong message.
Kusano Clothing is one of those brands that you can enjoy wearing, including the background story behind it.
I asked Ms. Kusano to talk about RRL with me because both RRL and Kenneth Field are clothes that open doors to worlds I didn't know existed. As a buyer, I value things that give me a chance to focus on things other than clothes. For example, when I wear RRL, I feel like riding a horse, drinking some good bourbon, reading a book, or going to America.
Kusano: I understand that completely. I also got into American casual fashion and ended up going to America in the late 80s.
Shibata: That's exactly it. When I wear Kenneth Field clothes, I feel like going fishing, just like Kusano-san. I think that clothing has a very important role to play in fashion, as it can convey something and inspire action. In that sense, I'm learning a lot from both RRL and Kenneth Field.

RRL is clothing that embodies a rich and wonderful America.

From a buyer's perspective, Mr. Kusano Shibata, what is your assessment of RRL?
As a brand that Shibata Vintage handles, RRL is a brand that makes it easy for customers to understand and enjoy its world, and honestly, I find it enjoyable because I can learn so much from it. Ralph Lauren is a brand that has always been in a man's closet, but my interest in RRL began when I wondered, "What is RRL, named after his wife Ricky Lauren?" and I became interested in the background behind the creation of the brand. I thought that there must be the roots of Ralph Lauren as a designer there, and that it must also be an expression of the origin of the so-called American Dream.
Kusano : I see. Ms. Shibata, have you read "The Ralph Lauren Story"?
I read Shibata's book. I strongly felt the joy and pleasure of creating and producing things, and the mindset required of someone involved in the fashion business. From a designer's perspective, how do you view RRL, Kusano-san?
Ralph Lauren, under the auspices of Anglo-Saxon people, is a designer who expresses America through clothing, based on British fashion that Anglo-Saxon people admire, and directly conveys the message, "Isn't America rich and wonderful?" Furthermore, RRL's roots lie in the work clothes of the American Westward Expansion era, giving it a warm, homey feel reminiscent of "Little House on the Prairie."
Shibata: I understand that impression perfectly. It's like "good old America," isn't it?
From my perspective as a maker at Kusano Clothing, RRL's products are excellent, made with high-quality materials and without compromise. They are skilled at craftsmanship and their designs are very logical.

Shibata , what do you think of wearing RRL clothes on a regular basis?
Kusano has a style that, in a good way, doesn't quite fit into current trends. I bought an RRL suit that's based on 1960s designs, but the material is from Fox Brothers of England and the tailoring is by CORNELIANI , which is representative of today's era. I tried it on and compared it to some vintage 60s clothes I own, and the rise of the trousers and the width of the thighs are quite similar. To be honest, I thought, "That's clever." I thought this could become an "archive for the next era."
Minoru Shibata is wearing RRL again today, and he interprets Mr. Kusano's faithful reproduction of silhouettes as the brand's policy. Wearing RRL means wearing American vintage and American traditional style, which allows you to "wear the right atmosphere," and at the same time, you can "learn by wearing" how to wear it to look even better. Wearing Kenneth Field well is also quite difficult.
Kusano's designs aren't exactly universally appealing, are they? (laughs) But the brand aims to be useful in the wardrobes of as many customers as possible. If we can achieve that, I think I could even stop making clothes.
Shibata: That idea of "wanting to help more customers with their closets" is exactly the same as the concept of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 7th floor.
I want to create clothes that are in Kusano's closet and that she finds herself reaching for every day.

Brands that make you want to wear them after you've learned the rules are rare.

Shibata: In today's world, there are plenty of easy-to-wear clothes that are fashionable, but challenging pieces like those from RRL and Kenneth Field make you think about what size and balance to wear, and how to "wear" them. However, both brands value the universal aspects of clothing, so they don't feel stiff when you wear them, and their solid positioning makes them comfortable to be around.
RRL by Kusano is a brand that makes you think before you wear it.
Shibata: Today, both of you have rolled up the sleeves of your jackets, so we're on the same page, we're thinking about it (laughs). After learning the rules, it's important to have brands that make you want to wear them in a different way. Kenneth Field's style is also based on American traditional style, isn't it?
Kusano : Yes. I went to America in the late 1980s, and I design clothes that focus on American traditional clothing from the 1980s onward, based on my own experiences, while also drawing inspiration from the cultures of various countries and regions across different eras.
Kenneth Field Shibata has been doing well since his debut in the Fall/Winter 2012 season.
Kusano: Thank you. We've been using the same materials for some items since our debut, mainly jackets, trousers, shirts, and ties, so we're able to create clothes exactly as we envisioned from the beginning.
Shibata: Right now, for fashion to thrive, big brands and fashion houses need to take on challenges, and I think those challenges will also bring attention to new designers and brands. The same applies to our customers, and I'm really looking forward to seeing what kind of fresh styles they'll try, starting with the RRL brand.
I'm interested to see how Kusano styles vintage-inspired pieces like RRL.
Shibata: I've gotten to know Ms. Kusano, and I've received a lot of inspiration from her knowledge of clothing and her discerning eye. What role does vintage play for you as a designer?
I personally own vintage clothing such as Kusano hunting jackets and fishing vests as references for making clothes, but in reality, they're hardly useful (laughs).
Why isn't Shibata any help? There are so many of them...
It's an interesting idea from Kusano's perspective, but I want to try something new. However, it seems like it could be useful for future collections.
Shibata: I'm looking forward to that. Men's clothing has a story behind it, and the more you learn about it, the more enjoyable it becomes. I want to share all sorts of discoveries like that with our customers.

When thinking about coordinating outfits with Shibata Clothing, there are certainly reliable styles that you can say are "surefire favorites," but I think the real joy lies in "the fun of thinking for yourself and choosing what to wear." To do that, it's necessary to study the history, as Mr. Kusano says. Shops that handle men's clothing with care always have someone like Mr. Kusano who can teach you the intricacies of combinations. Touching vintage clothing can be one tool for that learning, and meeting the creators gives infinite possibilities to the act of simply "buying."
It's really important for creators like Kusano to share their knowledge, and I want the store staff to know about it first. For example, if you look at Kenneth Field's clothes and realize, "Ah, maybe it's inspired by 1980s Armani," that leads to the understanding that "it's based on 1930s-1940s America." If you understand these things and serve customers accordingly, the way customers look at clothes will surely change.
Shibata: That's absolutely true. That's Kusano's way of "delivering to customers," isn't it? I've actually seen how much fun customers are having at Kusano's events, and it really hit home. If you think about it that way, RRL has a solid foundation, so if you try it once, you'll realize that there are actually many items that you can cherish and use for a long time.

Wearing RRL or Kenneth Field is like wearing an ideology.

To understand the world of the Kusano brand, for example, if you wear an RRL Western shirt, go to a riding club and eat dry-aged beef (laughs), having those kinds of real-life experiences will make it easier to understand.
Shibata: That's true. Wearing RRL means wearing Ralph Lauren's philosophy, and wearing Kenneth Field means wearing Kusano's vision. This might sound strange after everything we've talked about (laughs), but today I've had my RRL denim pants shortened quite a bit and pressed. I'd like to ask Kusano, what do designers think when their intended way of wearing a brand is misinterpreted like this?
Kusano: It really comes down to whether the way they dress suits their character or not. People who understand what they're wearing and dress accordingly look cool.
So, you don't care as long as the Shibata brand's philosophy isn't misinterpreted, even if you wear it?
If it works as Kusano 's own style, then that's fine. Even if it's "Kenneth-esque," it's okay as long as it's been internalized.
Shibata: With brands that have a strong flavor, it's best to first understand the underlying philosophy, and once you've gotten used to it, you can add your own touches.
If you're wearing Kusano RRL, try a full outfit, put on work boots or Western boots, and go for a ride to really appreciate the quality of the clothing. So, I recommend going for a horseback riding experience at the Equestrian Park and then enjoying a hearty steak (lol).
Let's go somewhere wearing Kenneth Field Shibata!
Kusano , I'll think about various situations to decide where would be best!

Photo: Suzuki Shimpei
Text: Makoto Kajii

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 7th Floor = Men's Authentic
03-3352-1111 (main representative)
For inquiries via email, please click here.