[Interview] ABASI ROSBOROUGH | UNISON, the creator of the suit of the future

A modern suit is by no means the work attire of the aristocracy. Nor is it the formal attire of a soldier, much less the attire of a fox hunter. Suits, jackets, and coats all have their origins in this way. However, modern classic clothing should be comfortable for commuting from home to work and for long flights abroad, not restrictive when sitting in an office chair, and suitable for social settings such as restaurant lounges and clubs. Even if the design of tailored clothing is a historically established "design that makes the human body look its best," if it does not allow for comfortable living, both physically and mentally, in modern urban life, it is nothing more than a straitjacket disguised as clothing.
There is a brand that questions outdated classic tailoring and seeks to create a new era of classics: Abdul Abdul Rosborough in New York. The two met at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York, and after graduation, Abdul Abdul went on to work for Engineered Garments, while Greg Rosborough worked for Polo Ralph Lauren. The catalyst for them to start their own brand was a "strange" sight that Greg witnessed on an airplane one day.

"A female flight attendant was putting a passenger's suitcase into the overhead compartment when a businessman in a suit tried to help. He tried to lift the luggage, but his jacket was too tight and he couldn't lift his shoulders. He took off his jacket, lifted the luggage, and then put his jacket back on. I thought it was strange when I saw it. That jacket was clearly not suited to modern life."
Greg immediately told his friend Abdul about it. "I want to create functional clothing that suits the diverse lifestyles of modern people." He thought that clothing that allows you to stay comfortable even when working at a desk on a PC or traveling long distances by car, train, or plane would be the modern classic. At that time, Abdul Abbasi had the same idea. Interested in the re-engineering of menswear, Abdul was conscious of the difference between designs that are disappearing and designs that will remain in the future, from the process of sorting through the details of vintage clothing to distinguish between what is necessary and what is unnecessary.

"Having worked with Japanese brands, I understood the importance of paying attention to details and being particular about the finer points. Even after leaving FIT, every time I met with Greg, we would discuss things like whether decorative buttons on jacket sleeves were necessary, or why the notch in the lapel was necessary."
Greg also has a deep knowledge of vintage clothing.
"Even in vintage clothing, there are many designs that take into account the functionality of each era. One example is the curved shape of the pockets that follow the lines of the body, and there are also jackets with straps for carrying them on your back. I was interested in providing clothing details as a solution to such needs."

The answer the two came up with was a jacket with stretch material used under the arms. A jacket that allowed for easy arm movement while also being aesthetically pleasing was born as Abasi Rosborough's first collection.
The modern classic clothing that these two envision is not merely the result of pursuing functionality; it also incorporates elements from various cultures. These include baseball shirts, symbolic of America, jackets with front closures reminiscent of traditional Japanese clothing, and tunic shirts with a Middle Eastern influence.

"Why does classic clothing have to originate in Britain? America, Japan, and other countries also have their own histories of clothing. We want our clothing to be a global brand, not just a New York brand. We want to incorporate the best from around the world and create modern and future classics."
Greg Rosborough, who spent his days immersed in basketball, has Scottish roots, while Abdul Abbasi's grandfather, a former helicopter engineer in the Royal Air Force, was an immigrant from Nigeria. One great designer alone cannot create clothing for a new era that transcends nationality, culture, and race. But Greg Rosborough and Abdul Abbasi, together, can envision an limitless future.
"If the old-fashioned classic is the rotary dial black telephone, then our classic clothing is the iPhone. The SE was born before the 5, 6, and 7, and eventually it continued with the 10, 20, 30, and then the 100s."
Abdul Abbasi
Born in Washington D.C. in 1980, he is 35 years old. While interested in art and design, he joined the U.S. Air Force after high school to earn money for college. He worked as an Apache helicopter engineer for approximately eight years. He then enrolled in FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) to study fashion design. After graduation, he worked at Engineered Garments, led by Daiki Suzuki.
Greg Roseborough
Born in Iowa in 1983, he is 32 years old. During his student years, he was an active basketball player, aiming for the NBA. At the age of 18, he visited New York for the first time to participate in a tournament, and stepped into the luxury department store Barfdorf Goodman, where he was inspired by the cutting edge of fashion. After majoring in business at the University of Arizona, he enrolled in FIT. After graduating, he worked for Ralph Lauren, but in 2013, he co-founded a brand with Abdul Abbasi, a classmate from FIT.
Text: Ikeda Yasuyuki
Photo: Okada Natsuko
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Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 2nd Floor = International Creators
03-3352-1111 (main representative)

