The umbrella, with its 16 main ribs, has a beautiful, nearly circular silhouette.


Kazuyuki Tanaka of Maehara Koei Shoten is 36 years old. "I was originally a salaryman and was interested in manufacturing, but I wasn't particularly attached to umbrella making. However, I was so impressed when I opened an umbrella made by a craftsman that I joined Maehara. I spent about a year and a half going to work under a craftsman, starting by doing the same work all day long," he says, now with about three years of experience. "Most of the craftsmen who support umbrella making today are in their late 70s or 80s, so people of my generation are rare," he laughs.

When it comes to men's umbrellas from Maehara Kōei Shoten, the 16-rib umbrella developed by the previous president is famous. "So-called bat umbrellas have 8 ribs, and Maehara Kōei Shoten makes umbrellas with 8, 10, 12, and 16 ribs, but the 16-rib umbrella is close to a circle when open, and its beautiful silhouette is popular with both men and women," says Tanaka.

In the workshop located on the upper floor of the "Maehara Koei Shoten Showroom" in Misuji, Taito Ward, Ms. Tanaka single-handedly handles every step of the process, from cutting the fabric to attaching the handles. "It takes a little over two hours to make one, so I can only finish four a day," she says.

Sixteen triangular pieces of fabric are stretched over the frame, forming an umbrella.

 

"Currently, the most popular umbrellas for men are 60cm umbrellas with 16 ribs, and dark blue is the most popular color. Black seems to give off a more formal impression," says Tanaka. When asked about the best part of his job, he continued, "Because of the unique characteristics of the fabric, even with the same process, no two umbrellas are exactly alike. All of Maehara Kouei Shoten's umbrellas are handmade, and they require more effort than products from high-end Western umbrella manufacturers. It's interesting to be able to control the process using my own senses and experience because it's all done by hand."


Process ①
Cutting fabric for umbrellas

First, I place a triangular "wooden mold" that I made myself onto the fabric and cut it with a roller cutter. The fabric is waterproof coated and processed for umbrellas, and I cut it in layers of four to prevent the fabric from shifting. 4 layers x 4 sets = 16 pieces for one umbrella.


Process ②
The fabric is sewn together using a sewing machine specifically designed for umbrellas.

Two pieces of fabric, cut into triangles, are sewn together, folding in the edges. "I've been doing this for three years, but each sewing machine has its own quirks, and I still haven't mastered it," says Tanaka. The sewing thread is water-repellent.


Process 3
Sew the finished fabric onto the central rod.
Once the 16 pieces are sewn together, the next step is a process called "tenkagari," where the fabric is sewn onto the upper part of the central shaft. "This is the process of attaching the sewn fabric to the central shaft, and it's an important part that supports the tension of the umbrella and affects how the umbrella opens, so we sew it on securely," they explained. The central shaft is made of oak, which is strong and easy to work with.


Process ④
Once it starts to take the shape of an umbrella, attach the tips in 16 places.

The caps at the ends that secure the ribs to the fabric are called "tsuyusaki," and they are sewn by hand in 16 places on each of the 16 ribs. This is a delicate process that requires subtle adjustments to create the wrinkles.


Process 5
Sew it to the bone in two places by hand.

To ensure the umbrella opens smoothly and the fabric and ribs don't shift, each rib is carefully secured by hand in two places. This process is called "center stitching."


Process ⑥
The model is complete up to the point before attaching the handle.
Once the tips are attached, the next step is to attach the accessories (parts). At the tip, a piece of cloth called a "kikuzaza" is attached to prevent rain from seeping in, and then a metal fitting called a "jingasa" is attached on top of that. Other accessories include a band to hold the umbrella together, and for men's umbrellas, a bag is made. This completes the umbrella processing. Finally, the handle is attached according to the order and specifications, and the umbrella is finally complete.

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