Held twice a year in Florence, Italy, "Pitti Immagine Uomo" is one of the world's largest men's fashion trade shows. Three professionals discuss trends, including runway developments, at this centered event.

Left: Yuki Yamaura (Mitsukoshi Isetan Business Clothing Buyer), Center: Kiyohiko Takada (Mitsukoshi Isetan Research Institute Men's Fashion Director), Right: Hiroshi Morioka (CEO of Globe / Fashion Director & Stylist)

Wear a T-shirt in a relaxed style.

A relaxed mood continues to be a trend.

—How do you perceive the current overall trends?

In recent years, at Takada Pitti Uomo, there has been an increase in tailored clothing made from jersey and knit materials, as exemplified by terms like "relaxed" and "comfortable," blurring the lines between formal and casual wear.
Yamamura: That's true, there's a casual and relaxed vibe to the overall mood. And this season, the Pitti Association itself had "THAT'S PITTI COLOR!" as its theme, so I was particularly drawn to the "colors."

At the booth of Germano, a long-established Italian trouser brand, colored trousers were prominently featured, showcasing vibrant, bright colors.

Morioka has a lot of bright colors, doesn't he? Colored pants are still popular, and there's a wide variety of shoes, shirts, knitwear, and more.
Seeking a fresh impression, some brands also featured "color-on-color"コーディネート (coordination).
In Yamaura , blue was overwhelmingly the most common color. Trendsetters that we benchmark, such as TAGLIATORE , LBM1911, and Roda, all featured main displays with a navy or blue base color.


TAGLIATORE , one of Pitti Uomo's leading trendsetters, made blue the main color of their booth, paying meticulous attention to every detail, from the products themselves to how they were presented.

Among visitors, outfits based on navy and blue are becoming increasingly popular.

Even at the LBM1911 booth, which specializes in sporty tailored styles, the main display featured a color scheme ranging from blue to navy.

—But blue is a classic color, isn't it?

Yamamura: That's right. That's why I think it's important to interpret and propose things like tone-on-tone matching as proper fashion in stores.
It's not just Morioka denim; a variety of materials are available. Even within the category of "blue," there's a wide range of shades, so I think coordinating them in tone-on-tone won't be too difficult.
Takada: Another color that's attracting attention is white and beige. This is also a trend that has emerged from the "relaxation" movement, and it's spreading mainly through linen materials, which are found in the Natural Hall.
Yamaura Beige seems to have become a leading color, used not just as an accent color, but in jackets and other garments.


--Could you tell us about the ongoing trends?

Takada: Last fall/winter season, we featured military and workwear at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , and the trend towards functionalism and pragmatism remains strong. This was also a trend seen on the runway. Clean cuts and the use of high-quality materials are key.
While safari jackets and MA-1s are iconic items in Morioka Military's trend, the M-65 field jacket is what I would recommend to mature men. It looks fantastic when paired with high-quality shirts and trousers, just like a tailored jacket.

The brand, now a regular at Paris Fashion Week, presented military-inspired items again this season, captivating the audience with its sophisticated approach.

—Are there any new trends in resort-style fashion?

Takada: Last year, white and black pants and thick stripes were popular in women's fashion, and now this marine trend is spreading to men's fashion as well.
We definitely want to recommend Yamaura Marine in our stores. This season, we've prepared a range of refreshing blue-toned items, mainly focusing on wide-striped jackets. I think it would also look stylish to pair them with shorts.
Takada : Next up is ethnic style. While earthy tones with a touch of acidity and floral prints are the mainstream, tailored casual wear combining exotic stripes, jacquards, and prints was particularly noticeable.
Ernesto, whose collection is themed around the Mayan civilization, is part of this trend. This tendency was particularly strong among the brands exhibiting at Pitti Uomo that took a more fashion-oriented approach. While it might be a little difficult for Japanese people to pull off, I think you can enjoy a fresh feeling by incorporating some of its essence, such as using smaller patterns or referencing the color schemes.

At Pitti Uomo, the up-and-coming brand Ernesto showcased an ethnic collection, featuring colors and patterns inspired by the Mayan civilization of South America.

—So, did you notice any major changes?

Regarding Takada Pitti, I didn't get the impression that it had changed much. It seemed like a minor change from the same period last year. Nowadays, I think the mainstream approach is to choose practical items and focus on quality rather than cutting-edge or flashy things.

What are the upcoming trends to watch out for, as seen at Pitti Uomo and on the runways?

Yamaura: It's not a major trend, but I'm paying attention to the fact that brands like LARDINI and LBM1911, which have previously led the trend of casual tailored clothing, are now starting to focus on their original, more structured full-canvas suits. I think this might be a new trend.

Dries Van Noten presented a collection that exuded a unique elegance, hyper-mixing punk rock, tailored clothing, and street culture.

--What do you think of the runway performance?

There are many similarities with Takada Pitti. Brands participating in Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks are now presenting items that are closer to ready-to-wear clothing. If I had to put it into words, I get the impression that they are trying to create a new kind of reality that transcends the old.
Morioka 's military-style look also stood out.
If I were to point out a difference between the two, Takada , it would be that runway shows are more conscious of youth culture. For example, last year, the "YEEZY BOOST 750," a collaboration between Kanye West and Adidas, was a massive hit, showing how movements from the younger generation are increasingly entering the world of high fashion. The street and sports trend is also very strong.

Valentino (left) presented an ethnic style with a South American vibe. Missoni also expressed the emotional transformations she experienced through her travels to India in her collection.

Morioka: When it comes to the younger generation, we can't leave out genderless fashion. Sleeveless outerwear, long knits, and animal prints all started as women's trends.
Yamaura: Lately, with the advancement of technology, there's been a movement towards clothing itself becoming like gear, with new added value being given to materials, and portability and convenience being reflected in the design.
In Takada , however, the opposite is true: a strong yearning for the warmth of human touch and ethnic cultures emerges, leading to the development of designers who value ethnic and craftwork. I think it truly reflects the mood of the times.

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