These shoes combine the classic wingtip style with Velcro closures, creating a unique and unexpected look. Weber Hodel Feder (WHF), the brand behind these shoes, is a rising star founded in 2012 by three members: Matthias Weber, Niklaus Hodel, and Florian Feder. We spoke with Niklaus Hodel, one of the designers who recently visited Japan for the first time, about their shoemaking process.


These wingtip shoes with Velcro closures are the first model of our brand. I originally created them as part of my collection for my third year at the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts, where I also made clothes in addition to shoes. The owner of the Antwerp shoe store "Coccodrillo" saw them and said he would sell them in his store if we set a price. They ordered a total of 49 pairs of these shoes and boots. That's how we suddenly ended up with our first stock before the brand even existed. After receiving the order, we went to Italy and negotiated with a factory that Matthias knew to make the shoes for us. The daughter of the factory owner was an alumna of the Academy, and they were good friends.


Later, through an introduction from a journalist friend, someone from "Opening Ceremony" came to meet us. This person was in Antwerp as a judge for the academy's master class and had seen our shoes at "Cocodrilo." He purchased enough stock for their stores in New York, London, Tokyo, and Los Angeles, and just six or seven months after we started, our shoes were available all over the world.
From there, we slowly developed three styles in addition to our initial collection of Velcro shoes and boots. Currently, we offer 12 to 15 styles in our collection. Next spring/summer, we will also be releasing models inspired by skater shoes.


All three of us studied fashion design at the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts, not shoe design. But we all loved shoes. I worked as an art director in the advertising industry, but I came to Antwerp to pursue a career in fashion. And it was during my studies in fashion that I became interested in shoes. It has strong elements of product design, but also a craftsmanship aspect. Especially with men's shoes, there are many limitations in terms of size and style. But even in that small field, there is a lot that can be done. Coming from the world of art direction, it was easy for me to understand how to refine existing styles and designs. I spoke with Matthias and Florian and confirmed that we could share a passion for shoemaking. We each have different backgrounds. Matthias had experience as a stylist and then went to another fashion school in Germany. After graduating from the academy, he worked on the design team at H&M. Before coming to Antwerp, Florian was the manager of a boutique in Munich. I consult with Florian regarding sales and other matters. Matthias is, of course, knowledgeable about styling and also about materials.


When we created this hybrid style two and a half years ago, our idea was to create comfort through mixing different elements. There is such a thing as a classic yet comfortable style. Perhaps something like jogging pants made from cashmere fabric. To achieve this, it was necessary to change the rules of classic Italian shoemaking. We always persuaded the factory staff, who would say "it can't be done," by telling them that our idea was interesting and fun. Now we trust each other, and that's because we've had so many discussions. While respecting the heritage of classic shoes that they have been making for decades, we use it in a new way. There are discussions with every collection, but we maintain a good relationship with the factory. No matter how well you can design a shoe, you can't make a good shoe without the people on the factory floor. I think these shoes tell the story of how we achieved this, with three young people in hoodies and sneakers working alongside veteran craftsmen over 70 years old.


──What kind of manufacturing does WHF aim for?
The three of us share the same taste. When we were younger, we wore skater wear and listened to hip hop. Street culture has always been important to us. We're trying to infuse that street sensibility into classic, handmade Italian shoes. Ultimately, we hope to appeal to both businessmen who, like us, were once familiar with street culture and still appreciate those details, and young people who are tired of sneakers but don't want something too dressy.


Text: Yukihiro Sugawara
Photo: Hirotaka Hashimoto

Weber Hodel Feder

This up-and-coming brand was launched in 2012 by three graduates of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp: Matthias Weber, Niklaus Hodel, and Florian Feder.
The classic wingtip style, which has become an icon of the brand, combined with Velcro closures, was created by one of the members, Niklaus Hodel, while he was a student at the academy. Currently, the shoes are being carried by leading shops in New York, Paris, and London, including Isetan Men's, and are attracting attention.

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