When discussing suits, at least as a symbol of gentlemanhood, "unremarkable" is the highest compliment. A suit should be a companion to the wearer, never making any kind of statement. And just as a person who believes in themselves is free from pretense, such a suit boasts an overwhelming level of perfection. NH Sartoria, which has captivated European connoisseurs in no time, is now revealing its full scope for the first time in Asia.
Dominico Pompino was a master tailor often mentioned alongside the legendary Caraceni. Caraceni, of course, is a legendary tailor who systematized the artisan culture. He published a book considered the sacred text for tailors, and a court ruled that branch families should place their first name before Caraceni's—a true legend in every sense of the word. Despite being a figure who stood on equal footing with such a family in that era, Dominico's name is not very well known in Japan because his skills were so highly valued that his company was acquired by a couture brand in the 1970s.

"I met Dominico during my nine years as sales director at that couture brand. I was captivated not only by his impeccable craftsmanship but also by his dignified personality. That's how we launched NH Sartoria in 2003."

Federico Cheschi, a shrewd businessman and unparalleled fashionista known throughout the Italian fashion industry, decided to team up with Dominico almost at first sight.

"Only passion—that was all there was. I had certainly achieved a certain level of fame, but I wanted to create something that I could be truly satisfied with. I thought that with Dominico, I could make that dream a reality."

When starting NH Sartoria, Federico posed the theme of "innovation." Dominico's answer was unlined clothing.

"When I first heard the term 'unlined,' I didn't quite understand it. But when I tried on the finished sample, I was ashamed of my naive impression. The suit, made without artificial fibers, reminded me once again of how breathable wool can be, but what truly impressed me was its ability to maintain its shape, something unlined suits are usually not good at. The secret lay in the unique facing (a construction that wraps around the outer fabric), which was twice the usual amount. However, what impressed me the most was the beauty of the craftsmanship revealed by removing the lining. It seemed as if the lining served more than just comfort or shape retention; it was like a curtain concealing the behind-the-scenes work."

What elevates this to an unparalleled level is the selection of approximately 20 top-notch outworkers chosen by Dominico, and the fabrics that Federico himself creates by visiting fabric shops.

"Everyone is captivated by the smooth feel of fine-count yarn, but extremely fine yarn doesn't drape well and doesn't last long. Is it really a good idea to choose fine-count yarn for everything? For the same reason, I don't choose based on brand name. I actually look at and touch countless fabrics, and then, taking into account the wearing and handling scenarios, I aim for the best possible match."

What's undeniable is its unpretentious and perhaps even understated presence, which some might find lacking in excitement. It's a natural consequence of seeking timeless elegance and effortlessness. The restrained design, which responds to its view of modernity with "just a twist," is a mechanism that clearly highlights the quality of its craftsmanship, an aesthetic that was only possible with Dominico, and a reflection of Federico's life itself.

When I was a child, my uncle gave me a pure gold color bar with my name engraved on it as a gift. Such an expensive gift for something that no one would ever see. As a young child, I was taken aback by how ridiculous it was, but at some point, I became drawn to that kind of understated elegance. Federico, a descendant of nobility with understatement ingrained in his very bones, continued.

"The NH I added to my name stands for NOBIL HOMO, which means 'noble man' in the language of Vincenza, where I was born and raised. It's a very common custom among the people of that town to put NH in your name. It also conveys the local culture, and above all, my wife really likes it (laughs)."

By the way, Dominico, who is scheduled to celebrate his 90th birthday next year and is supposed to be living a comfortable life after handing over the position of master tailor to the next generation, still comes to the atelier quite often.

As was evident from Federico's passionate interview, which began with a firm handshake, the vitality of this noble man seems to remain ever-fresh.

Text: Takegawa Keiji
Photo: Fujii Taku