DIOR presented its 2025-2026 Winter Men's Collection at the École Militaire in Paris.

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This season, men's creative director Kim Jones explored the concept of the evolution of menswear, starting with the inspiration of Christian Dior's "H line" from the Fall/Winter 1954-1955 haute couture collection. At the same time, formal presentations of men's couture were also incorporated, appearing mainly at the beginning and end of the show, interwoven with ready-to-wear looks.

"Monsieur Dior's 'H line' had been on our minds for a long time, even before we went back to the archives for this season. It has a graphical, angular feel that we felt was very compatible with the world of menswear. We were convinced that we should focus on Monsieur Dior again. We wanted to go back to basics and focus on the essence of the Maison."

This collection incorporates elements that evoke the history of fashion, particularly menswear. It reflects a shift from the flamboyant and opulent styles of the 18th century to the more linear and practical designs of the 19th century, the origin of modern menswear. However, while many looks touch upon fashion history, this collection doesn't embody historical fashion; ultimately, it embodies the 'present.'"

— Kim Jones


The concepts of evolution and silhouette transformation are expressed throughout the collection. Drawing inspiration from archive pieces that have evolved from feminine to masculine in response to changing times, the collection incorporates garments that actually transform, such as coats that change into skirts. A playful sense of volume is also expressed throughout the collection. This element is particularly evident in belted robes and opera coats that are inspired by womenswear archives, ranging from fitted to flared. The finest fabrics and finishes are also characteristic of this collection. While silk and satin are central, elements of rigor and elegance are felt in every piece. Despite the luxurious elements, the silhouettes are stripped down. In particular, light and luster are incorporated into the surface finishes through the idea of intentional draping and chiaroscuro (light and shadow).


The figure of Giacomo Casanova, known as the "Ladies' Man," is woven into the collection and presentation in two ways. His image as a flamboyant man and the mask motif are combined with 18th-century luxury, and with inspiration from masculine and feminine, women's haute couture and men's ready-to-wear.


The leather goods evoke a sense of duality, with soft-formed bags accented by masculine hardware as a deliberate contrast. In contrast to the soft shearling-crafted "Dior Roller" bag, the "Dior Normandie" tote is made from a unique leather.


In the shoe designs, a more traditional femininity is combined with the idea of masculine savoir-faire. Classic leather dress shoes and the glossy, vibrant "Dior Parmares" leather boots feature a knotted satin toe cap—the "bow cap"—incorporating the couture bow motif that reappears throughout the collection. Special-order hybrid sneakers, featuring hand embroidery inspired by archival shoes from 1961, embody both glamour and exceptional craftsmanship.


The collection's central embroidery is inspired by Monsieur Dior's "Pondicherry" look from his Spring/Summer 1948 haute couture collection. This embroidery is recreated on a pink robe that concludes the show, and is also found throughout the collection, appearing on belts and as a motif on jewelry such as a sterling silver chatelaine that holds all of the couturier's tools. Other embroidery patterns, such as pinstripes and herringbone, are reminiscent of typical menswear designs, but in this collection, these elements are layered and transformed into more opulent decorations. Even simple raindrop-like embroidery is far from simple, as it uses glass beads of various sizes, which are meticulously placed and sewn by skilled artisans.

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