From Wednesday, December 18th to Wednesday, December 25th, 2024, a pop-up store for New Manual will be held at the Men's Creators section on the 6th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . The brand launched all 33 planned items at its 5th exhibition held at the end of October this year. This was the final collection designed by the brand's director, Yutaka Fujiwara. At this event, 10 items that received particularly positive feedback from the 33 items released over the approximately three years since the brand's inception will be sold exclusively at Isetan Shinjuku Store.

In this special feature, we conducted a conversation between Mr. Fujiwara and the buyer in charge, Osamu Toriyama. Looking back on the project so far, Mr. Fujiwara shared his thoughts on each exclusive item and his vision for the intriguing second act of the new manual.

I feel a sense of accomplishment after completing my masterpiece, the Type 33, and my heart is filled with excitement for the unfolding of the second act.

Men's Creators Buyer Toriyama Osamu (hereinafter, Toriyama): First of all, thank you so much for all your hard work up until now.

New Manual Director, Yutaka Fujiwara (hereinafter referred to as Fujiwara): Thank you.

Toriyama : Let's get straight to the point. It took you about three years since the founding of the New Manual brand to complete the full collection of 33 models. Could you tell us your thoughts on that?

Fujiwara: It went by so quickly, and I feel a strong sense of accomplishment. First and foremost, I wanted to create my ideal vintage collection, and I made sure to own vintage pieces to use as samples, and I focused on how to express that ideal accurately. That's how I approached the creation process up to this point.


Fujiwara: Personally, my involvement lasted about three years, during which I created 33 vintage-style items, mainly denim. I was happy to see the number of customers grow each time we held an exhibition, including a pop-up at Isetan. Some customers owned every single item in the collection, and some even had their entire rack at home filled with New Manual items. It really showed me how much the New Manual brand is loved.

Toriyama: We, too, felt the power of the brand while working with them. Also, witnessing Mr. Fujiwara's approach to craftsmanship allowed us to experience the charm of vintage items more deeply. In addition, working with Mr. Fujiwara on various projects over the past three years has given us many valuable experiences.


I understand that now that the Toriyama 33 model is finished, Mr. Fujiwara will be stepping down from direction. What will happen to the new manual going forward?

Fujiwara: I will do my best with the projects I've taken on, such as next year's collaboration project, but as for the new manual, I think we'll be creating a "new manual," or rather, there will be a different development. However, no matter what path we take, I hope that we can maintain the important foundation of the brand and remain a brand that is loved for a long time to come.

Toriyama: I'd love to continue working on the new manual, and I'd also be happy to collaborate with Fujiwara-san on fun projects. I'm also working hard to make this pop-up event something that our customers will enjoy.

Fujiwara, I look forward to working with you!

Toriyama: This time, as a culmination of the brand's work, you've kindly agreed to hold a pop-up event, and you've prepared 10 exclusive models for Isetan Shinjuku. By the way, why these 10 models?


Fujiwara : There are several reasons, but the biggest one is that we've been focusing on denim-centric branding since the brand's inception, so we wanted to concentrate on denim. Also, New Manual has always put a lot of effort into expressing the beauty of processing, and denim is the best way to clearly convey that appeal.

Toriyama : It's true that Fujiwara is strongly associated with denim, and New Manual is strongly associated with relaxed processing.

Fujiwara: For example, while a denim jacket or jeans would be fine on their own, I thought that introducing them as a set would better convey the appeal of denim and processing techniques. This time, I've selected denim items that have received a particularly good response, as well as some that I personally have a special attachment to.

The greatest joy for me about this denim jacket is being able to reproduce the legendary "small buttons."

Toriyama: What are the common points among these exclusive models?

Fujiwara: For this selection of 10 items, I've been working as the director of New Manual for three years, and I've been designing and processing the items while imagining how they would look after being worn every day. As a culmination of that work, I felt a strong desire to express the changes that occur over three years as a brand.

Toriyama : I see. You usually have processing samples, but this time you didn't have any and finished it based on an image, is that right?

Fujiwara: That's right. We create each item with the idea of what it would look like after being worn for a long time. I think it's easier to wear than the previous collection because the colors and damage have been toned down.


Toriyama : I see. Well then, let's pick out a few items and talk about them. I'm sure you have fond memories of each item, but which one is particularly memorable for you?

Fujiwara: First up is the "#012 LV36's T-BACK JACKET." It's a model based on a 1930s denim jacket, but even I, who have been in the vintage industry for over 25 years, rarely see such a rare item. Its most distinctive feature is the "small buttons," which are smaller than the buttons that come with a typical denim jacket.

Toriyama : You're right, you don't see this button very often.

Fujiwara : Yes. There are many brands that study vintage items, but almost no one owns a piece from this era. Other notable features besides the small buttons include the collar being set a little higher, and the pocket flaps, which are usually angular, being slightly rounded. Also, something I personally like is the slim silhouette of the box stitching. Those details make a big difference in the overall appearance. No brand has been able to make a replica of this 1930s denim jacket until now because no sample 1930s denim jacket has surfaced. That's precisely why I was so determined to do it.


The design faithfully reproduces Toriyama's signature style while also aligning with current fashion trends. As Fujiwara- san mentioned, I was reminded once again that it's an item that truly symbolizes the brand. I also heard that the second type of denim jacket is particularly popular.


Fujiwara: That's right. "#006 LV 2ND T-BACK JACKET" was released at the first exhibition. The denim jacket I owned that I used as a sample had such extreme fading and paint splatters that it was so heavily damaged that in a way, it was the most rewarding to work on in terms of processing (laughs). The second type is very popular among vintage fans, so it was one of the most popular items we released. In line with this concept, we deliberately avoided extreme fading and paint damage, and finished it with a low-toned color.


I'm also interested in the jacket that comes with a Toriyama blanket.

Fujiwara: Thank you. The "#018 LV 2ND T-BACK WITH COTTON LINER" is based on a denim jacket that was only produced for about three years in the 1950s. Personally, I'd love to see bikers wear it. That's because it has a cotton liner, so you can stay warm even with just a T-shirt or cut-and-sew top underneath.


Toriyama (looking at the back of the denim jacket): Huh, it has a buckle!? I'm pretty sure this model didn't have a buckle back last time, right?

Fujiwara, you certainly have a good eye (lol)! You're right, the processed model we sold at the Third Exhibition had a cut buckle (the one-wash type currently sold on the New Manual EC site has a buckle). It's designed to look like it's been worn for three years, so it's faded, but the parts have actually been restored (lol).


Toriyama : I see (laughs). It's interesting how some parts have changed over time, while others have returned to their original state. (Looking at the 10 garments lined up before him) But when you see them all lined up like this, it's quite a sight. The unified color scheme and damage tones really bring out the New Manual style, don't you say?

Fujiwara: That's right. Since the fabric and color are basically the same, it has a powerful presence. Also, the New Manual has a unique texture and fade, and when you wear it a bit, it shows a look that other denim doesn't have. That's why when I see someone wearing it on the street, I can tell right away (laughs).

With jeans, we want you to enjoy the "neo-vintage feel" that is unique to '80s black.

How about Toriyama pants? I'm really interested in the rugged workwear jeans that were released early on.

Fujiwara: That's right. The first jeans we released, "#002 1942 LV JEANS," are straight jeans, and as the model name suggests, they were created with the year 1942 as the theme. They feature a wide, straight silhouette that looks like work pants, giving them that "vintage jeans" feel. This silhouette is universally popular among vintage fans, and we're grateful to have many repeat customers. For this exclusive release, just like with our other items, we've created a faded look that simulates jeans worn for about three years, so we think you'll be able to enjoy a different kind of charm compared to the previous release.

At Toriyama , how about slim-fit jeans, which have a silhouette that's the complete opposite of straight-leg jeans?


Fujiwara: That's right. What I want you to pay attention to is the "#010 LV SUPER SLIM JEANS," a super slim model based on the legendary slim jeans that were only produced from 1961 to 1966. This is the only exclusive item available in two colors: "IDG (Indigo)" and "BK (Black)." In addition, we are releasing four other models: the "#017 LV '61s TAPERED JEANS," both indigo, which are modeled after jeans that are considered the prototype of the slim straight, and the "#028 LV 66 JEANS," which are inspired by the '66 model.

Toriyama's variations are quite extensive, aren't they?


Fujiwara: That's right. In particular, I'd like you to check out the "#010 LV SUPER SLIM JEANS BK" among the super slim models. There's no such thing as black vintage jeans in reality, but recently, 80s-made pre-dyed black jeans are considered the only vintage jeans. This time, I've finished them with my favorite fade, so I really hope you'll take a look.


Toriyama , lastly, do you have a message for customers who are looking forward to the pop-up?

Fujiwara: For about three years, I was involved in clothing production as the brand's director, and I was able to do things I never imagined, such as collaborating with world-renowned high-end brands. I was very happy and grew in many ways. This will be my last pop-up event with Isetan. I am very proud of every item, so I would be very happy if you could come and see it.

Text: Kei Osawa
photograph：Tatsuya Ozawa(Studio Mug)