The "ISETAN STORY STORE" event, featuring exquisite items that you'll want to give to that special someone, or pass on to your child one day, and that you'll want to use for a long time while maintaining them, will be open for a limited time from Wednesday, December 11th to Sunday, December 15th at the event space on the 6th floor of the main building of Isetan Shinjuku.

This event brings together carefully curated booths from the buyers in charge of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . Among them, one that deserves special attention is the pop-up shop by AUBERGE designer Manabu Kobayashi and National Coat Shop representative Kan Sato, featuring the "Forestier," a masterpiece of French jackets that has gained explosive popularity in recent years. These two experts will unravel the history of the "Forestier," which is said to have been a favorite of the architect Le Corbusier, and reinterpret and reconstruct it, offering a made-to-order garment. We introduce a masterpiece overflowing with the love that these two have for Le Corbusier and the "Forestier."

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Manabu Kobayashi

AUBERGE Designer

Born in Shonan, Kanagawa Prefecture in 1966. After graduating from Bunka Fashion College, he traveled to France and was exposed to many vintage clothes and accessories. After gaining various experiences, including working as a planner for the French brand Sippy and in planning and production at a denim factory in Okayama, he launched his own brand, Slowgun, in 1989. Later, he launched AUBERGE , which reinterprets vintage wear and redefines timeless classics.
Instagram: @auberge_official

Sato Kan

Representative of Kokuritsu Gaiten

Born in Tokyo in 1980. After working for a major telecommunications company, she worked under stylist Sonia Park. Her hobby of collecting vintage clothing led her to start National Court Shop in 2021. She operates without a physical store, mainly through irregular sales events and an online store.

Instagram: @nationalcoatshop

A leading expert shares his thoughts on "Forestier."

Mr. Sato, the representative of Kokuritsu Gaitou-ten, which buys and sells rare European vintage clothing, and Mr. Kobayashi of AUBERGE , who has a deep understanding of French clothing including workwear and military wear, and who creates products that follow French vintage in terms of design and manufacturing methods, have teamed up for the first time for this "ISETAN STORY STORE." They explain why they chose the classic French jacket "Forestière" as their theme, as follows:

Sato Shizuka (hereinafter Sato) : "When I was invited to participate in this pop-up, I hesitated about whether I should accept, as I prefer to maintain a distance from manufacturing as I am more of a collector. That's when I was introduced to Mr. Kobayashi, and since I've known him since I was a teenager, there was no way I could refuse (laughs). Mr. Kobayashi is knowledgeable about European vintage clothing and production backgrounds, so we naturally started talking about 'Forestier,' which I also have expertise in."

Manabu Kobayashi (hereinafter Kobayashi): "'Forestier' has become extremely popular in recent years, riding the wave of the Euro vintage wear boom. It is said to have originated when the architect Le Corbusier, who is well-known in Japan and has many fans, commissioned Arnys to make the clothes he would wear when he taught at the Sorbonne University in Paris. That story has also contributed to its high price in the vintage clothing market today."

What are the new facts about "Forestier" that overturn conventional wisdom?

Sato: "However, when we actually looked into it thoroughly, we couldn't find any record of Le Corbusier ever teaching at the Sorbonne University. We also searched old documents in French libraries, but we still couldn't find Le Corbusier's name at all."

Kobayashi : "There aren't any photos of him actually wearing the 'Forestier' jacket. We can find photos of him wearing a double-breasted leather jacket, commonly known as the 'Le Corbusier jacket,' but..."

Sato : "The lack of evidence has troubled vintage enthusiasts like myself and Mr. Kobayashi for many years. Perhaps it would be more accurate to say that we've been fascinated by it. In recent years, we've seen statements in several interviews suggesting that it wasn't Le Corbusier's idea. Whether we should accept this as fact now is a difficult question."

Kobayashi : "Up until now, it had settled into the status of a legendary jacket without any evidence. However, the story behind it is so romantic, and the shape and atmosphere are exactly the kind of design that Le Corbusier would have liked, so I think that's why it has become so popular."

The reason why "Forestier" is considered a masterpiece

Arnys "Forestier" jacket, personal item of writer Eisuke Yamashita *Reference item

Arnys "Forestier" jacket, personal item of Mr. Kan Sato of Kokuritsu Overcoat Store *Reference item

Arnys "Forestier" jacket, personal item of Mr. Kan Sato of Kokuritsu Overcoat Store *Reference item

"Forestière" is considered a historical masterpiece of French wear, but what exactly is its appeal? The two of them explain its true value as follows:

Sato : "The wide-opening collar is distinctive, isn't it? Even without lapels, it has an elegant look that allows a bow tie to sit nicely. I imagine Le Corbusier would have worn it that way. However, it also suits modern lifestyles very well. You can wear it casually and relaxed, but it still gives a neat and tidy impression. And the prestige of the Arnys brand makes it suitable for someone of a certain age to wear. The construction is very simple, though."

Kobayashi : "French clothing is basically soft because it doesn't use interlining. That's why it tests the wearer's inherent charm. For example, British clothing is structured, so anyone who puts it on will naturally look like a gentleman. Italian clothing gives off a sense of sexiness. But French clothing is made with the idea of how to envelop the person inside, and it's not the kind of clothing that tries to embellish the wearer. Forestier is exactly that kind of clothing. It's linear and very simple. However, the balance of the amount of fabric in various places such as the sleeves and length is superb, and there is an atmosphere that can only be created with this balance."

Kobayashi : "And above all, the fabric is excellent. This vintage 'Forestier' also uses supple, very good quality cotton."

Sato : "They use cashmere, silk, and leather generously, even in the smallest details. They are truly particular about their materials. Also, the tailoring process involves a great deal of work. The double-welt buttonholes are a clear example of this. In addition, they often use cashmere for the lining of the back and sleeves, and a distinctive feature is that it is often in vibrant colors."

Kobayashi : "This kind of playful touch is very Parisian, isn't it? It's the kind of thing you can't wear unless you're a little brave. The lining is deliberately slightly visible from the edge of the patch pockets on the bodice. I imagine it's quite a time-consuming process to make."

This piece recreates the unique character of "Forestier" while incorporating details from the "Corbusier jacket" actually worn by Le Corbusier. It's a garment that embodies the feelings and unique interpretations of both individuals towards Le Corbusier and "Forestier," and could be called "Forestier 2.0."

Kobayashi : "The base is definitely the 'Forestier.' By following its pattern and silhouette, we've maintained the unique atmosphere of the 'Forestier.' We've also incorporated some of the specifications of the 'Le Corbusier jacket' as an adaptation. This includes the detail of the approximately 3cm wide tape on the double-breasted button area, but what we paid particular attention to was the leather."

Kobayashi : "The jacket that he originally wore for work in his atelier and elsewhere, known as the 'Le Corbusier jacket,' was actually workwear issued by France to civil servants. It was made from cowhide leather with a coating called lacquer applied only to the surface, and if you look at photos of Le Corbusier wearing it at the time, the leather is stiff and brittle like a rice cracker. We deliberately expressed that using the horizontal lines that only natural calfskin has, the so-called 'tiger stripes.' Furthermore, we also referenced the actual 'Le Corbusier jacket' for the lining, deliberately incorporating an old-fashioned, somewhat dated check pattern. In addition, the slightly raised patch pockets follow the details of the 'Forestier' model."

Sato : "While recreating the mood of 'Forestier' that has captivated us, we have also incorporated elements of the 'Le Corbusier jacket' that Le Corbusier actually wore and reconstructed it. Including various discussions, I think this is a garment that encapsulates the joy of clothing. And from here, 'Forestier 2.0' and a new discussion begins (laughs)."

Until now, there was no answer to the question of "Forestière." "Forestière" continues to fascinate many people. We introduced a new "Forestière" reconstructed by two experts. On the day of the event, French vintage clothing handled by the National Overcoat Shop will also be on sale. Why not try on some rare vintage clothing and let your imagination wander to the romantic life of France and Europe in those days?

Click here for event information at 'ISETAN STORY STORE'.

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Photograph: Yusuke Iida
Text: Shinji Hashimoto

＊All prices include tax.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.
*Some parts of the text have been revised. December 4th

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
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