In recent years, it's not uncommon for brands to experience rapid growth, primarily through social media. Methodologies different from traditional brand expansion have become common, such as brands being promoted by popular influencers or generating buzz on YouTube.
On the other hand, there are surprisingly few cases where brands specializing in basic wear, especially American casual styles, experience a rapid surge in popularity. The reason is clear: a major factor is their understated design approach. Because of their simplicity, color coordination and size balance become crucial, making the choice of matching items more difficult than one might imagine. Moreover, the brand often features a wealth of details rooted in its cultural origins and vintage elements, so it takes extra time to understand the brand and become enthusiastic about it.

Amidst this landscape, SC Subculture has achieved rapid growth in the American casual wear scene. Its design approach, rooted in the cultures of its designers—surf, motorcycle, and vintage—and especially its denim products, which are created without regard for profitability, have attracted the attention of many consumers. The fact that it's not sold in select shops and its products are only available through irregularly held guerrilla pop-ups adds to its secrecy, which may also appeal to collectors.

This brand will be holding its first-ever pop-up store at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . Three experts who know the brand and designer well will join us to delve deeper into the brand's roots before this event, which will bring together products previously only available to a select few.

―Motorcycle―

Witness ①: GAKU YOKOMIZO / HAWGHOLIC motorcycles

The Loop Route 8, Tokyo's main artery. Located in Tamagawa, Ota Ward, for 19 years, GAKU's shop has become a mecca for Harley-Davidson lovers, largely due to his exceptional sense of vintage motorcycle assembly. SC Subculture designer Seo is one of those captivated by GAKU's talent. We spoke with him, a long-time acquaintance, about his first encounter with Seo.

—Could you tell us about how you two met?

GAKU (hereinafter G) : It was about 5 or 6 years ago.

—GAKU, did you already know what Seo was doing?

G: I don't really know (laughs).
Seo (hereinafter S): You know about it, don't you? (laughs) You've even appeared on our YouTube channel, and in the very first episode!

—So you've known the brand since its early days, then (laughs).

S: Since the time of the previous brand.
G: Right (laughs).
S: That was the first time I bought one. The timing of when I bought the dark blue vintage Levi's XXs coincided with the year the Panhead was made. So I started to break it in, and it was fun. I rode the Panhead like crazy. I went to Chiba, I went to Saitama. I would deliberately go to places that are usually crowded, like Naritasan Temple. It was during the COVID lockdown, so the roads were practically empty.

—Mr. Seo, had you already decided that if you were going to ride a motorcycle, you would buy it from Hogholic?

S: I had already made the decision.
G: Really (lol)?
S: When you came, you made an immediate decision, didn't you? (laughs)
G: I see (laughs).
S: Well, I had already bought a motorcycle before I got my intermediate and large motorcycle licenses.
G: That pattern is actually quite common. People who are planning to get their license and are already planning to buy a car.
S: What's more, my first bike was a Panhead (laughs).

Vintage denim and vintage motorcycles are both rare these days, and good condition examples are decreasing year by year. Whether by chance or fate, Mr. Seo acquired both at just the right time. And perhaps it's characteristic of him that he doesn't collect vintage items, but rather uses them in his daily life.

—I assume you primarily source your stock from the United States, but are there still good specimens available in the US these days?

G: Lately, they've been running low. Plus, the rates are bad, right? So it's become a bit difficult.

—By the way, how much would this bike (Mr. Seo's) cost if you were to buy it now?

G: Around 10 million, I guess. For the knuckleball, that is. Everyone wants one.

—That's amazing!

S: No, not at all. The timing was good when I bought it. It was during the height of the pandemic, and before the price went up.

—Is this your second motorcycle?

S: No, it's the third generation.
G: So you buy a vintage bike first, and then ride a new one in between?
S: From around the 90s. I wanted one with an electric starter, but then I found that (the electric starter) was a hassle.
G: It was a somewhat awkward decade, the 90s. I guess we just had a series of problems.

—So, Cell's bike wasn't that interesting?

S: No, it's an FXR, so that's not really the case. I bought the current model, right? And I'd say it's become a little less interesting.
G: Maybe you shouldn't say that here (laughs)?
S: These kinds of things (=vintage) are incredibly difficult, aren't they? First of all, you have to start from scratch, even just learning how to kick the pedal.
G: It's difficult even just to start the engine.
S: At first, I would kick it recklessly and break the kick pedal (laughs). Also, I wasn't used to the hand shift at first. That was hell, but it eventually became fun.
G: Once you become an adult, you don't really have to go through that much hardship.

—So, even with the inconveniences, there's still enjoyment to be had from riding, right?

S: That's right.
G: The joy of mastering the ride, huh?

While I'll deliberately omit a detailed vehicle description here, Mr. Seo's bike is a special one-of-a-kind unit with the tank and shaft integrated into a single piece. There's no doubt that encounters with such vehicles lend credibility to the products of the Subculture brand. And, as you can see from the above, the essence of vintage motorcycles is clearly evident in the numerous graphics.

• Profile: GAKU YOKOMIZO

  Born in 1971 in Ota Ward, Tokyo. He originally built his career in the vintage clothing industry, working as a buyer of vintage wear, and in 2005 opened HAWGHOLIC motorcycles, which imports, sells, and customizes old Harley-Davidson motorcycles and parts.

―Vintage―

Witness ②: KOUSUKE MAKITA / BerBerJin YUHODO Director

BerBerJin, a leading force in Japan's vintage scene, has now made a name for itself worldwide. Their newest store is "BerBerJin YUHODO," directed by Mr. Makita. The two met through their shared hobby of surfing and have since deepened their friendship. Vintage Harleys, surfing, and vintage items – what connects them is 100% pure American culture.

—Could you tell me how you two met?

MAKITA (hereinafter M): I think we met about eight years ago. If we go by connections, it's at the beach. I knew he was running a brand. I also knew about the brand he was with before, and I was a fan of that brand. I heard that he was the designer there.
S: Right after we met, I bought a dark blue Levi's XX model at the main store. I was also introduced to Yu-san (manager of BerBerJin main store). I learned how to starch jeans there as well. And around the same time, I bought a Panhead pair, which was perfect timing. We started breaking them in together.
M: After that, you also bought some deadstock '66s.
S: That's where the connection (with subculture) began. I also collaborated with them before I left my previous brand.
M: The setup is based on the wartime model. So, let me introduce you to Yu-san. It feels like the official collaboration between Seo-san and BerBerJin has begun.

—Back then, BerBerJin didn't have as many collaborations as they do now, right?

M: Yes, it really felt like something special. It might have been because of my introduction. It's also true that Yu has contracts with various denim brands, so it's not easy to do a collaboration with him.

—How many years ago was this?

S: It was 2019 or 2020. That was before I started my subculture project.

Their encounter was forged through the sea and surfing. The collaboration between a long-established vintage brand and a brand-new one was quite unusual at the time. This achievement could be attributed entirely to Mr. Seo's personality. It might not be an exaggeration to say that the foundation for the now-rare subculture denim products was established at this time.

—Ms. Makita, you've been following the brand from the beginning, right?

M: I've been following you since your very first hoodie and T-shirt.

—What was your honest impression?

M: I felt that it was different from what I'd seen before and that it was interesting; it wasn't just another replica brand.

—For someone who works with vintage items every day, what makes these not just replicas?

M: I think this brand has a lot of individuality and originality, so I felt it had a flavor that you don't find in vintage items. It has a vintage feel, but it's also "eye-catching" for everyday wear. I think that's the biggest appeal of subculture.

—What aspects does Mr. Seo tend to be particular about?

M: For example, using silver for the buttons. That's the kind of unwavering principle that isn't driven by money. That's the impression I get. I think the costs are very high, but he's someone who makes what he wants to make regardless of profit.

—So, what would you say are items that are typical of subculture?

M: If you're talking about something that looks like subculture, I think it would be a denim set-up, but what I like is a wool shirt. A shadow check wool shirt, I think that's the greatest masterpiece of subculture.
S: Well, the source of the idea is by MAKITA (laughs).

—Is the original source from a vintage piece?

M: Yes. I like vintage wool shirts, and I had my favorite pattern used as the basis for this design, which I wear. I think most people would say denim, but the quality of that wool shirt is incredible.

—But wool shirts are incredibly difficult to buy, aren't they? I think most people have never seen one. Could you tell me what makes them so special?

M: At first glance, the level of reproduction is so high that you might think it's vintage. You make it from scratch, right?
S: No, it starts with the thread.
M: I think that's the biggest secret. After all, "subculture can't be bought" comes up in Google's suggestions (laughs). That's branding, too. The fact that it's not easy to buy makes people want it even more.

—By the way, are there any aspects of Ms. Makita's work that have positively influenced you, Ms. Seo?

S: I don't know how this will look from a brand perspective, but I'm not a vintage clothing enthusiast, so I think it's quicker to ask someone who's knowledgeable. For shirts, it's him, and for T-shirts, it's this person, so I try to ask the very best. I learn from them and keep improving my knowledge.

—Were there any other items that gave you hints like the shirt?

M: I think there are more than you might think. We explain a lot about the source of ideas and details. Like thermal underwear from subculture lines, for example. I think there are surprisingly few brands that are particular about making thermals. Thermals are an item that is often worn layered under T-shirts and such, so when I said, "Wouldn't it be pretty cool if you were particular about that?", they started to be really particular about it. They referenced vintage from the 50s and 60s. I've seen companies that continue to be particular about those kinds of things when making products.

—So you've received quite a few hints from Ms. Makita, is that right?

S: Yes, they might be raising the centering. In the case of vintage clothing stores, they sell one item at a time, whereas with brands, there are production lots, so they have to sell a certain number, right? Those are the differences, so it's interesting to communicate with them in various ways. I might be the type of person who communicates more with vintage clothing stores than with people in the same industry.

Having colleagues with whom you can consult, regardless of age or career stage, is invaluable in any industry. This is especially true in the vintage industry, which has seen a surge in popularity in recent years. While it's rare for someone to meet a vintage expert by chance at the beach, such connections are a significant advantage for a brand. This is one of the reasons why subculture products are so beloved by vintage enthusiasts.

• Profile: KOUSUKE MAKITA

  Born in 1997 in Chiba Prefecture, he dropped out of school at the young age of 20 to join BerBerJin. Recognized for his exceptional buying sense and communication skills, he was appointed Director of "BerBerJin YUHODO" at the young age of 24.

―ARTWORK―

Witness ③: (NO MANE) / ARTIST

Graphics have always been crucial for street and American casual brands. The process of imbuing a brand with its message and mindset is incredibly difficult. Therefore, whether a brand can secure a trustworthy artist is a major turning point. We delved into the secret creators behind the impactful skull and eagle graphics seen when subcultures first emerged.

Seo says they met "about 10 years ago," and that he likes skull motifs, and that he commissioned the current artist from among them.
"All the graphics I'm showing you now were requested by me, and they were brought to life for me. I usually commission graphics around anniversaries, but lately I've been asking them to do various things for my jewelry as well. Even with jewelry, there are times when I get stuck for ideas. When that happens, I consult with them, and they can solve the problem in just a moment. They also make things that are practical. For example, I asked them to make the D-rings that come with the bags. Initially, the leather factory gave me the task of making D-rings, and they had to be functional, right? If they weren't strong enough, they would bend or break. I consulted with them on those kinds of things too. They are a very valuable resource for me. Incidentally, I made the D-rings out of rope, so the engraving is on the inside, but they pay attention to even those unseen details. When we do pop-ups, customers are very pleased. They say, 'You don't cut corners even on the parts that aren't visible.'"

When asked if there are any points to consider when finishing subculture graphics, the artist replied:
"Since it's a surfer and biker, I can't really lean too much to either side, so I try not to make it too over-the-top. I think I need to create an image that can be used for either. It is a surf chopper, after all. I'm probably aiming for a refreshing West Coast vibe while still having a bit of a rebellious feel. I'm trying to avoid anything like the gruesomeness of hardcore skeletons."

Finally, when asked what he thinks will be interesting as a subculture in the future, he replied as follows.
"I think it's best to refine what we've been doing up until now. If you constantly try new things, you might attract new customers, but I don't think it will last long. There aren't that many cool things in this world. Cool things are limited. There are a lot of eccentric things, but few that are cool. I think those who pursue those cool things are the ones who will survive."

Anonymous. This word has been rampant for quite some time now, but the originator of this term is actually this artist. Some people might get a general idea just by looking at the style, but I'll intentionally keep the truth a secret for now. However, the overwhelming detail of the artwork, the delicate touch, and the fact that items featuring this graphic sell out in seconds is also a truth.

Details regarding in-store sales on Wednesday, August 14th will be announced later on the official Instagram account of Men's Creators at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6th floor ( @isetanmens_creators ).

*The information in this article is current as of the publication date. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.
*Please note that some items are available in limited quantities, and we apologize if they are out of stock.
*All prices include tax.