2024.01.31 update

[2024 Spring/Summer Trend Report] This season, understand the essence of luxury. Buyer Inaba explains!

Winter has only just begun, but new proposals hinting at what next spring will bring are already being made in abundance. At ISETAN MEN'S , the buying for this spring/summer season has been completed. Here's a look at some of the items personally selected by our buyers.

PROFILE
Tomohiro Inaba, Tailored Clothing Buyer, 5th Floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building

Since joining the company, she has held various positions in the dress clothing floor, including sales, sales floor manager, and buyer. Her original styling, which mixes various trends with a classic base, has garnered support from over 10,000 followers on social media.

  1. 2024 is the year to redefine essential and authentic classics.
  2. Two fashion houses that are redefining classic style: Modern sartorialism
  3. Leading the way in this era is a pants brand created by young craftsmen.
  4. Shirts and cutsews that promise versatile styling.

2024 is the year to redefine essential and authentic classics.

"Now that classic styles are becoming more flexible, I want to redefine keywords like luxury and quality," Inaba says for this season.

"At international trade shows, many brands are expanding their lifestyle offerings. On the other hand, an increasing number of brands are choosing to forgo participation in these shows and instead protect their brand values by communicating directly from their own showrooms. In a sense, it's a polarization, but both approaches show that they are exploring new forms of luxury."

This season, we are moving away from the traditional focus on luxury and rediscovering what truly holds value for each individual. Inaba says that "that's precisely why" now is the time to once again offer customers "the highest quality that ISETAN MEN'S envisions."

"We aim to re-evaluate the value of menswear rooted in traditional techniques, while also proposing a mixed style that allows for versatile wear. We believe that true authenticity lies in clothing that possesses value that can be passed down to future generations, while also featuring carefully selected materials, meticulous handwork, and classic details. We want to reaffirm these shared values with our customers."

Inaba's meticulous buying process returns to the origins of classic craftsmanship while firmly looking ahead to the next generation. Take a look at some of the items he has curated.

Two fashion houses that are redefining classic style: Modern sartorialism

For men's classics, the jacket is a fundamental item, and we focus on ALFONSO SIRICA , a brand that offers exquisite handmade pieces in accordance with the craftsmanship of Southern Italy. This brand, which places the utmost importance on impeccable patterns, is known for its assertion that "the most important part of the garment-making process is cutting." Supporting this statement, they use CAD software for pattern making, which is rare for a Neapolitan tailor.


ALFONSO SIRICA jacket: ¥327,800
□Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing


"In a world where some tailors don't even use rulers, and some don't even draw cutting lines before cutting, Silica's CAD-based process ensures consistent product management and extremely high quality in its ready-to-wear garments. Even the parts you can't see are perfectly matched with patterns. Yet, when it comes to comfort, which is the most important aspect of clothing, Silica is meticulously crafted with soft, hand-stitched details. This contrast is what makes Silica so appealing."

Silica's jackets are created by the contrast between computer cutting and hand sewing. The most representative model is called "Violina." This jacket, originally made for violinist customers with increased volume in the back and higher sleeve openings to allow for easier arm movement while playing, has been specially modified by ISETAN MEN'S to suit the Japanese physique. Combined with the linen blend material, the result is a light and breezy jacket perfect for spring.



"We selected fabrics that are exceptionally soft, including checks and solid hopsack-like materials. The check pattern, rendered in tones, is so perfectly matched that the box opening of the chest pocket is almost invisible, reflecting Silica's pride in craftsmanship. The shoulders have no padding, only a thin interlining is loosely attached, and the large facing, single-sided center seam, and short, open back lining all contribute to the distinctive Neapolitan tailoring feel."

While this type of jacket may look good on the outside, the stitching on the inside is often quite rough. However, ALFONSO SIRICA never cuts corners, even in the parts that aren't visible. That's because the true quality of a garment is revealed in the parts that aren't seen. That sensibility is what ISETAN MEN'S consider to be "the value of quality."

"Next, I'd like to introduce ROTA , a Parma-based brand specializing in trousers. As a factory for famous fashion houses, it's a prestigious brand that inherits the classic Italian tailoring techniques. The measurement below the knee is set a little larger. By giving more room in the thighs, the fit is improved, and the dimensions were ordered with the balance with shoes in mind."

ROTA Pants ¥89,800
□Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing


The material is Loro Piana's "Summertime." With its light and refreshing touch and beautifully flowing drape, it seems to pair well with linen and cotton jackets. This time, Inaba ordered the model with seven loops and no V-slit.


"The width is just right for a slight break in the hem, and the straight, relaxed fit below the knee creates a beautiful drape. The fact that socks won't snag will also be appreciated by those who were dissatisfied with slim pants, and above all, these pants best complement a classic jacket style."

Leading the way in this era is a pants brand created by young craftsmen.

Bottoms silhouettes are a crucial element in determining trends. While there has been a trend towards wider styles in recent seasons, Inaba's perspective is to aim for a beautiful silhouette that focuses on "straight" rather than "wide." We introduce two brands that we selected not only for the pants themselves, but also considering the waistline when paired with a jacket and the hem length that goes well with shoes.


Fumiya Hirano The Trousers is a trousers brand created by tailor Fumiya Hirano. After working as a cutter at Henry Poole on Savile Row and establishing his own brand in London, Hirano's brand, which debuted in 2023, has already become a hot topic in various circles. ISETAN MEN'S has also been paying attention to this brand and putting a lot of effort into it since last season.

Fumiya Hirano The Trousers Pants ¥58,300
□Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing


"Classic tailoring is key for casual pants as well. This model, inspired by UK military style, is a new design for this season. It features a button fly and an extended waistband. It has also been adjusted to accommodate the flatter hip shape of Japanese men."


The beige heavy twill fabric is from Harrisons of Edinburgh, and the denim-like cotton is from William Halstead, both prestigious British fabric manufacturers. This is a confident creation that ISETAN MEN'S which is focusing on British products this season, highly recommends. It's a versatile piece that will look great simply paired with a casual knit or styled with a blazer.

The second is Cellardor, the in-house brand established by Vetta, a company known as a trouser factory for numerous luxury fashion houses. In its home country, it offers a complete range of products and is attracting attention for its sophisticated designs that strike a balance between tailored and modern fashion.

Cellard Door Pants ¥41,800
□Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing


"Cellar Door is a brand with a wonderfully creative sensibility, thanks to the two young designers. It offers a mix of French and modern styles that are easy to wear even for those who are used to only classic styles, and it enables modern styling that is popular with younger people."

The straight silhouette, without pleats, is elegant and relaxed. It's neither too wide nor too narrow, and the material seems wrinkle-resistant and easy to care for.

"In addition to beige and gray, we've added dusty pink to our color palette. While it's a new color, it pairs well with basic colors and is easy to incorporate even for those accustomed to classic styles, making it furnishing for the modern gentleman."

Shirts and cutsews that promise versatile styling.


From here on, we'll be picking out some items that are worth checking out this spring, reflecting Inaba's broad perspective, which isn't limited to classical music.


From left to right: Camisas Manolo shirt ¥45,400, Brienne shirt ¥67,600, Canel cut-and-sew top ¥18,480
□Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing


"This year I'm in the mood to wear shirts, but I'd prefer something I can wear without a tie. Brienne is a French shirt manufacturer. Their theme is the aristocratic white shirt, and even their casual shirts, such as band collars and pullovers, have a noble feel to them."

In its home country, pleated, squat-breast shirts are apparently an iconic item, but this season we've assembled a relaxed, casual line. The generous gathers and relaxed tailoring create a luxurious shirt collection that exudes French elegance. And here's another shirt brand...

"Camisas Manolo is a shirt-only brand that was founded in Madrid, Spain in 2019. While it has a long history as a shirt factory, its output is very modern, with a truly contemporary fit and silhouette. The shirts feature a moderately small, unlined regular collar, allowing for both tucking in and wearing untucked. It offers a free and easy way to enjoy a modern style of wear."

Furthermore, the striped cut-and-sew tops that we've been paying attention to in the 2023 season continue to be a focus for Canel.

"Founded in 1923, Canelle is Brittany's oldest striped cut-and-sew brand, having supplied uniforms to the French army. While there are three famous Basque shirt brands in this region, ISETAN MEN'S believes that this is the best striped cut-and-sew brand. The tightly woven fabric knitted on old-fashioned machines, the tailoring of each part, and the tradition of maintaining 36 stripes (*Editor's note: said to represent Napoleon's 36 victories) by adjusting the shrinkage rate even for different sizes are still carefully preserved today."


The fact that they've named their flagship model "Bonaparte," after Napoleon's surname, is a testament to their French flair. With a lineup that spans across Europe, including Italy, the UK, France, and Spain, the 5th floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building boasts a truly international selection this season.

Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
photo:Tatsuya Ozawa (Studio Mug)

*All prices include tax.
*The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building Men's Tailored Clothing, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
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