The catalog published by Isetan Men's, "THE GENTLEMEN CLOTHING FALL & WINTER 2023"

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , and the original suits and jackets bearing ISETAN MEN'S name are making a long-awaited comeback. Buyer Inaba, the key figure in their development, explains all the details. These are masterpieces that have been completely reconstructed from scratch to match the current era of significant changes in tailored clothing. They are so well-made that we can proudly say, "These are the new staple garments!"

Related article: [Feature] The latest brands & items and exclusive models are also featured! Dress Clothing Fall/Winter 2023 Trend Report

"THE GENTLEMEN CLOTHING FALL & WINTER 2023" ISETAN MEN'S Tailored Clothing ▼View Special Feature Page▼

The new standard lies in "stateless" tailoring.

The first thing we did to revive ISETAN MEN'S was to fundamentally rethink the design concept. We re-examined the question of what constitutes a "good suit or jacket" in today's era, and the keywords that emerged were "even higher quality" and "stateless."

In an era where suits and jackets are no longer merely work uniforms, what customers demand is superior quality that they can truly be satisfied with and want to cherish for a long time. With this in mind, the new ISETAN MEN'S has pursued quality more than ever before.

"The style that the new ISETAN MEN'S aimed for is 'stateless.' There are various aesthetics of tailoring around the world, such as Italian tailoring that emphasizes masculine charm, British tailoring that exudes dignity and authority, and American tailoring that is simple and unpretentious. However, now that mixed styles are becoming the norm, we thought that a 'stateless' garment that doesn't lean towards any one style would be the one that performs best. With that in mind, we thought that Towa Plum, which excels at tailoring that combines quality, refinement, and softness, would be the best partner."

Introducing the details of a suit that pursues both "elegance" and "lightness."

■ Lapel

The lapels, which are the defining feature of the jacket, were designed to strike a balance between classic and modern elements—two seemingly contradictory qualities.

"The lapels are slightly wider to create a calm, classic feel. On the other hand, the gorge line, where the upper collar and lapel meet, is set slightly higher to incorporate a modern touch. The shoulder area is also designed with a forward-curving shoulder design to suit the Japanese physique."

■ Upper collar to shoulder area

The key to achieving this "stateless" look lies in the line from the shoulder to the collar.

"In Italy, the shoulder line and upper collar are tailored to fit snugly against the neck. This is what's known as a 'nobori' (a type of collar extension). However, at ISETAN MEN'S , we deliberately kept the nobori subtle. Specifically, we designed the nobori in the shoulder line to be gentle, while the upper collar is designed to follow the curve of the neck. This creates a unique relaxed feel, while also ensuring that the back collar doesn't slip out easily when bending over or moving your arms. In addition, we used only a thin interlining in the shoulders and kept the amount of padding to a minimum to achieve both softness and a three-dimensional shape."

■Armhole

Along with the collar, the design of the armholes also significantly impacts comfort. We've incorporated our unique attention to detail here as well.

"One of its distinguishing features is the raised design of the lower part of the armhole, which is called the 'sickle.' Designing the sickle higher prevents the garment from being pulled when you move your arms, resulting in a more comfortable and lighter fit. However, making the sickle too high would make it feel restrictive, so we carefully considered the ideal balance. Also, to suit the slender chest shape of Japanese people, the front panel is made smaller and the back panel is made slightly larger, which is another point that enhances the fit."

The trousers, which form the base of a suit, are crucial for maintaining continuity with the jacket. These trousers are designed with moderation as the foundation, creating a cohesive silhouette. They feature a single pleat, which is considered the current standard. The rise is neither too deep nor too shallow.

"We aimed for a basic, natural tapered fit, avoiding extreme tapering or, conversely, widening the hem to a straight leg. The result is a subtle look that blends naturally with the jacket's aesthetic."

We have narrowed down our fabric selection to three long-established companies in Japan and Italy.

Alongside tailoring, the choice of fabric is crucial in determining the overall look of a suit or jacket. For the first season of the reborn ISETAN MEN'S , we will be focusing on fabrics from only three manufacturers. Two of these are long-established companies from Bishu, a region renowned for its wool textiles in Japan. We have also added a masterpiece fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico, a leading Italian fabric manufacturer. Please take a look at this collection, which has a strong sense of style precisely because we have narrowed our focus.

Based in Ichinomiya City, Aichi Prefecture, Katsuri Woolen Mills is a rare manufacturer that still operates old-fashioned machines called Schonherr looms. The fabric, woven slowly using traditional methods, has a unique fullness and exudes a vintage feel. Suits made with Katsuri Woolen Mills' "Gently Cloth" are perfect for business settings. As shown in the photo, they look great with a tie, but the textured herringbone weave also makes them suitable for a no-tie style paired with a turtleneck sweater.

Yamaei Keori, located in Tsushima City, Aichi Prefecture, at the southernmost tip of Bishu, boasts a history of over 100 years. Known for its diverse range of materials, from wool and cashmere to linen and cotton, as well as its long history of producing formal wear fabrics, this suit utilizes Yamaei Keori's "Deep Dyed Black" fabric. An authentic piece suitable for all formal occasions, including weddings and funerals, it's a worthwhile investment. Its smooth texture makes it suitable for year-round wear.

Founded in 1663 in Biella, a city renowned as the mecca of Italian fabrics, Vitale Barberis Canonico is one of Italy's leading established brands and a top runner in driving global fabric trends. It boasts a wide range of clients, from bespoke tailors to ready-to-wear brands. This jacket from Vitale Barberis Canonico is made from a cashmere-blend wool. While the silhouette is similar to their suits, the addition of two patch pockets gives it a subtly sporty finish. Its refined tailoring makes it a valuable addition to business settings.

“THE GENTLEMEN CLOTHING FALL & WINTER 2023”

Isetan Men's has published "THE GENTLEMEN CLOTHING FALL & WINTER 2023," a catalog showcasing the must-have fashion for Fall & Winter 2023, under the theme of "True Value and Evolution, Then and Now." Celebrating its 20th anniversary this fall, the catalog details the contents of the grand fashion festival being held to express gratitude to customers, and offers various suggestions for items to incorporate into your wardrobe this fall and winter.

Click here for the special page about the catalog.

▼ View ISETAN MEN'S Tailored Clothing Special Feature Page ▼