A classic that transcends 200 years and lives on in the modern era. A new face appears in the Breguet "7337" collection.
Breguet's classic masterpieces have been updated with the latest technology. The first Breguet not only invented watchmaking mechanisms but also new alloys. This new model inherits that innovative spirit, actively embracing new technologies and materials.
The new "Classic 7337" has arrived.
The new "7337," a flagship model in the "Classic" collection, features a deep blue color scheme for the first time on the day of the week and Sunday display discs. Each display window has sharper lines than existing models, and the openings have also been widened to improve visibility.
The small seconds indices, now directly printed on the Clous de Paris decorated dial, stand out remarkably clearly without any blurring, even on the raised pattern. The BREGUET lettering and serial number plate, which were previously arc-shaped along the outer edge of the dial, have also been changed to a rectangle.
Through these detailed adjustments, Breguet transformed the maison's iconic timepiece into something with a modern feel.
6,534,000 yen
18K white gold, 39mm diameter, automatic winding.
The dial design of the "Classique 7337," with its offset lower dial and the placement of the day and date display windows and moon phase above it, is one of Breguet's important signatures. It embodies the founder's aesthetic sensibilities.
The functional beauty of the first Breguet, a pioneer of modernism.
The first Abraham-Louis Breguet overturned the conventional idea that watch hands should be placed in the center of the dial. From 1812 onward, he frequently produced pocket watches with hands offset either upwards or downwards. These were known as "eccentric dials." The following pocket watches are examples of this style.
"No. 4691," which is recorded as having been sold on October 13, 1831, houses several mechanisms, including a half-quarter repeater that chimes the current time in 7.5-minute increments, all within an ultra-thin 7.7mm case. It is one of the masterpieces by the first Breguet.
The "Classic 7337," born in 2009, inherited the design of placing the moon phase at the upper outer center of the offset dial, with two display windows on either side. Going back even further, the same dial design was attempted in the "Classic 3330," which was created in 1986. In addition, several pocket watches produced by the original manufacturer also feature a similar design.
The first Breguet, hailed as a rare genius watchmaker who invented and innovated numerous watch mechanisms such as the automatic winding mechanism Perpetual and the tourbillon, was also a genius in his pursuit of legibility and beauty in watches. The eccentric dial is a design feature that prevents the hands from obscuring other additional displays.
Furthermore, the offset dial and its surroundings were visually separated by guilloché engraving of different patterns, making it easier to read. The first Breguet was also the first to apply this decorative processing technique, which involves engraving raised and recessed patterns onto a metal plate using a manual lathe, to watches.
The "Classique 7337" also features a guilloché pattern in the center of the dial, "Clous de Paris," meaning "the claws of Paris" in French, and a "barleycorn" pattern resembling ears of wheat swaying in the wind, surrounding it. Furthermore, the space between the Roman numeral hour markers and the dot-shaped minute scale is also divided by a guilloché pattern called "lisre." In fact, manual lathes used for guilloché engraving disappeared in the early 20th century. While other companies repaired and used existing old machines or switched to press work, Breguet manufactured its own manual lathes with the same mechanism as those used in the 19th century. They also trained technicians and have inherited the aesthetic sense of the original Breguet. As shown in the following photograph, modern Breguet watches also feature guilloché engraving on their automatic winding rotors.
The blue day and date display contrasts with the dial. The gold moon in the moon phase display is hand-hammered to resemble craters. The background is a starry sky depicted with lacquer and glitter.
The movement, visible through the case back, is decorated by hand, not just the rotor. The shock-resistant mechanism for the escape wheel is located to the lower left of the balance wheel. The wave pattern around the outer edge of the case back is also a signature feature, and is, of course, hand-engraved.
This, too, is not merely decorative. The outer edge of the rotor is left in its natural state without any carving, and the weight balance is unevenly distributed to improve rotational efficiency. Achieving a high level of balance between improved functionality and beauty is a tradition that has been in place since the first generation.
The movement housed within is a masterpiece of ultra-thin automatic winding, measuring just 2.4mm thick, with its basic design dating back to the 1970s. It's a classic, high-end movement, featuring a shock-resistant escape wheel that controls the unwinding of the mainspring in response to the balance wheel's vibrations. Both the escapement and the hairspring, which propels the balance wheel's vibrations, are made of silicon, known for its superior machining precision and magnetic resistance. This classic masterpiece has been updated with the latest technology. The founder of Breguet invented not only watch mechanisms but also new alloys. Modern Breguet inherits this innovative spirit of actively embracing new materials.
Photo: Masahiro Okamura
Text: Norio Takagi
For inquiries, please contact Breguet Boutique Ginza: Phone: 03-6254-7211
Website: www.breguet.com/jp
