Elegance, dandyism, intelligence, etc. In "THE GENTLEMEN CLOTHING AUTUMN & WINTER 2022," the theme was how coats embody various aspects of masculine charm. Two well-dressed men representing the fashion industry and Inaba from Isetan Men's discussed their ideal coat. In this article, we will revisit their conversation about coats, while also touching on how each of them actually wears their coats.




—Coats are often considered the main item of winter, but what does a coat mean to you all?

Of all the items in my wardrobe, my favorite is the coat. I can fully appreciate the perfect harmony of material, design, and form, and it has such an overwhelming presence that it defines my entire look. Even when I have a bespoke suit made, it's actually the coat that I'm happiest to have made.

These are "strong clothes" that make a man look masculine and an adult look mature. On the other hand, they are also clothes that best reveal the inner character of the person wearing them. For example, some people may have the image that a duffel coat is something a student would wear, but when a mature adult wears it, it doesn't look that way at all. Rather, it gives off an air of style and elegance.

Inaba: Personally, I think coats are a "fail-safe" piece of clothing. Looking back at my own clothing history, I still love and wear the Aquascutum trench coat I bought when I first joined Isetan, and the Brooks Brothers coat I bought after that is still in use. So, I think coats are the item that will last the longest in your wardrobe. With that in mind, this season at Isetan Men's, we asked five people, including the two of you, to create coats under the theme of "Next Vintage."


A coat designed by Mr. Kamoshida for Paul Stuart.

"I believe that the material is essential for clothing, not just coats. Even with the same design, you can express a sense of the times simply by changing the material. With this coat, by using a slightly pinkish-brown gabardine, we added a sense of 'next vintage' to the archive design. The material, made by British company Rusher Mills, is lightweight and drapes beautifully. It shows various expressions depending on how you style the belt," says Kamoshida.

A coat designed by Mr. Nishiguchi for Aquascutum.

"At first glance, it looks like a piece you might find in a vintage shop, but I directed the design from the pattern stage, and commissioned the brand to create it from scratch, including designing a single-piece sleeve with a rounded shoulder line. I think a single-piece sleeve Aquascutum is extremely rare. That being said, in order to maintain the brand's originality, we have retained minimalist designs such as not adding buttons to the pockets or cuffs," says Nishiguchi.

—That's quite an ambitious theme, but what kind of image do you, Mr. Kamoshida and Mr. Nishiguchi, have in mind for "Next Vintage"?

Kamoshida's fashion is a mirror reflecting the times, so I can't say anything for sure. However, I think that coats that are versatile enough to be worn both on and off duty will be more enduring in the future than coats that are exclusively for business attire. Of course, this is contingent on them having solid historical roots.

It's important that it incorporates elements of the West Exit Classic style. Also, I think that durable materials that can withstand 10 or 20 years of wear are conditions for it to become a vintage item in the future.

Kamoshida: Good materials not only last a long time, but they also gain character as they age. That's why vintage coats have a unique charm. And if I may add my personal opinion, I think that coats with distinctive colors and patterns are the ones that surprisingly tend to stay in your wardrobe. Because they make a statement on their own, you don't need to think about complicated coordination. You can just throw one on over a simple knit and the outfit is complete, so they're actually quite convenient.
A coat that "goes with everything" is surprisingly difficult to manage.

The three of them put it into practice
What is the court style for this season?

--Now, I'd like to ask about your coat style for today.

Kamoshida: Today, I've coordinated an outfit centered around a duffel coat that I designed for PAUL STUART . The lavender color, which has a slightly grayish nuance, is a color I've been incorporating a lot in recent years, but you don't see this kind of color in coats very often, do you? As I mentioned earlier, it's actually easier to put together a style if you choose a coat with a striking color or pattern. So, I think a coat in such an unusual color is much more versatile than you might imagine. The suit I paired it with is a staple for me in winter, made by Liverano & Liverano in gray flannel. Because the coat has a gray nuance, the colors blend together nicely. I dressed it down a bit by adding a striped knit tie.

Nishiguchi: I chose a best-selling coat from Beams F. It's made with a focus on the single-piece raglan sleeve, which is often seen in vintage coats. Compared to two-piece sleeves, the rounded shape of the shoulder line is appealing. In recent years, the slim-fit boom has subsided, and the mainstream has returned to what can be called the classic fit, but I think the rounded shape of the single-piece sleeve suits a coat with a beautiful, airy drape very well. Today I paired it with an Alfonso Sirica suit. The combination of a well-worn cotton trench coat and a handmade suit is a classic style. By the way, both the coat and the suit are made of iridescent Solaro fabric. Theoretically, I don't think this combination is usually worn, but I'm deliberately trying something unconventional.



Inaba : Wow, you both look so stylish! I feel almost intimidated standing next to you (laughs). The trench coat I'm wearing today is made by Husbands in France. I was drawn to it because it's a rare Made in France item these days. With its large collar, generous width, and knee-length hem, it has a classic look that I think I can wear for years to come, transcending trends. However, with classic trench coats like this, it's important to update them so they don't become too nostalgic, so I always keep that in mind when coordinating my outfits. My suit is coincidentally the same as Mr. Nishiguchi's, by Alfonso Sirica, and my tie is by Antonio Muro from Naples. I chose a very soft and light tie to prevent the trench coat from looking too heavy. My shirt and shoes are both from up-and-coming Japanese brands. I'm not dressing head-to-toe in established brands, and I'm mixing nationalities to express a sense of the times.


—Everyone has a lot of attention to detail. It's interesting to see how, while sharing a common background of "classic," each person expresses their own unique style.

The more you cherish and wear it
He looks great in a coat.

—Could you tell us about the coat styles that you all admire?

Nishiguchi: If I had to name an eternal style icon, it would have to be Humphrey Bogart. I bought a trench coat because I admired his look. I was also captivated by Michael Caine's navy trench coat. And then there's Richard Gere's Giorgio Armani wrap coat style in the movie "American Gigolo." I think it's an outfit that really brings out his personality. In that sense, I guess wearing a coat that suits your own personality is what looks best.

Kamoshida: That's absolutely true. I also have a lot of styles I admire. For example, the coat style of the American artist Cy Twombly. You can see his narcissistic inner self right there (laughs), but it's incredibly cool.

Inaba: I...and I'm not just saying this to be polite, but I really admire Kamoshida-san.

Kamoshida again (lol).

Inaba : No, really. I have a strong impression of the snapshots of him walking with the collar of his balmacaan coat turned up and only the top button fastened. I felt that this is what natural elegance is all about.

To truly make Nishiguchi 's style your own, you just have to wear it a lot. Simply imitating the surface won't work. That's especially true for classic styles, and that's precisely why they're so profound and interesting.

Kamoshida Coats boasts numerous classic pieces that are considered masterpieces. I think the key to successfully wearing them is "how closely you can make them look like everyday wear."

Inaba: The Husbands trench coat I'm wearing today—when I first bought it, I actually felt like it was a little too old for me. But now that I'm in my late 30s, I'm gradually starting to wear it more naturally. You really grow attached to coats like that, don't you? As Isetan Men's, we'd ideally like to offer coats that you can grow attached to over 20 or 30 years.

[Related Articles]
Isetan Men's has published "THE GENTLEMEN CLOTHING AUTUMN & WINTER 2022," a catalog showcasing the must-have fashion items for Fall/Winter 2022!





Edited by: ISETANME'S net
Photo: Takeshi Wakabayashi

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