The popular series " Isetan Men's Stroll " continues with its third installment featuring buyers and curators, exploring the world of "custom-made shirts."

Kei Izumi, buyer of men's tailored clothing on the 5th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building visits Makers Shirt Kamakura's Shinjuku 3-chome store to have a custom-made shirt created. Furthermore, two young hopefuls from Makers Shirt Kamakura take on the challenge of ordering their first shirt at Isetan, using the custom-made shirt service on the 5th floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . All three are experts on shirts, but their preferences vary. Listening to them, it's easy to see how they can easily get hooked on custom-made shirts.

We tried ordering at each other's stores.

What kind of shirts did the two members of Makers Shirt Kamakura order at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building ?

Kosuke Suda (hereinafter, Suda): When I was a university student, I heard people like Michihiko Kei, who runs the video streaming service "Kay_Standard_Style_TOKYO," and Yuhei Yamamoto of Tailor Caid, say things like, "When you become an adult, it becomes embarrassing to wear shirts without collars." At the time, I didn't quite get it, but now that I'm approaching 30, I've come to understand that feeling, and recently I always take a shirt with me when I travel, and shirts have become my number one daily item, both on and off duty.

Kawada Shinnosuke (hereinafter, Kawada): The appeal of shirts is that they can be worn for any occasion. "Just wearing a shirt is OK" is the easiest and most natural way to dress. For example, with a button-down shirt, you can wear it with a tie, without a tie, or with the collar buttons undone in many ways. There is no other item that is so much fun to wear in everyday life.


This is the first time I've ordered a shirt at Suda Isetan, and I'm not just saying this to be polite, but I found the fabric I'd been wanting and decided on it immediately. It's a thick white broadcloth "MTR10501" from the Italian brand MONTI. Thin broadcloth fabrics give an Italian feel, but I love American traditional style, so I was looking for a thick, opaque broadcloth. It's hard to find in ready-made shirts. I also had a great conversation with Ms. Hanano, who assisted me.

The style is very faithful to the American button-down shirt. It's simple, but the best thing is that you can wear it for a long time. I was fascinated by the wide variety of fabric samples at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . I'm envious of how many they have. They also have a wide variety of collar styles, and I heard that they redesign them every few years to incorporate the latest trends.




Kawada: I had a brown linen suit made this year, so I came here to order a shirt to go with it. Mr. Kuchimoto (Category Specialist Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building ) also recommended it as a shirt that would go well with this suit, and I decided on the "TMS51090" from THOMAS MAISON, which has a white background with burgundy stripes that go well with brown. I chose a fabric that would also suit a large, Anglo-American style printed tie.

The style features a regular collar that can accommodate a tie, with a slightly longer tip. The collar, cuffs, and other areas with interlining are softened, and there are no pleats or darts in the back, nor are there any pockets or name tags, giving it a dressy look. However, the silhouette is on the relaxed side.

Before coming, I thought ordering a custom shirt might be intimidating, but after talking to the stylist, I found the atmosphere very welcoming, and once I sat at the counter and got used to it, it was a comfortable space. Makers Shirt Kamakura's custom shirt process is popular for being simple and easy to understand, but Isetan's custom shirts have many alteration options, and I thought, "The more particular you are about your shirt, the more you'll enjoy it."

What kind of shirts are customers looking for now, and what can be achieved through custom orders?

Buyer Kei Izumi (hereinafter, Izumi): Isetan Men's custom-made shirts involve taking measurements in 14 different places, allowing for detailed adjustments. Based on these actual measurements, our stylists adjust the fit and comfort, and we ask about the details that the customer prefers to determine the style and fit.

Suda Makers Shirts Kamakura/Shinjuku 3-chome stores seem to attract many customers who are passionate about clothing and have a deep knowledge of shirts. Many customers enjoy the process of choosing fabrics when ordering custom-made shirts.

What is the ratio of customers who purchase ready-made shirts from Izumi to those who purchase custom-made shirts?

Kawada: That's right. At our Shinjuku 3-chome store, it's about a 7:3 ratio. People who prefer custom-made shirts enjoy the process of ordering the fabric they want, based on their own tastes and preferences.

Have you noticed any changes in customers in Izumi before and after the COVID-19 pandemic?

Before the pandemic, many people prioritized features like easy care and wrinkle resistance, but recently, more and more people are deliberately choosing 100% cotton fabrics and paying attention to color and design. In particular, since custom-made suits are currently popular, custom-made shirts that match those custom-made suits are also gaining popularity.

Suda: This time, together with Kawada, we ordered shirts for the first time at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . What advice would you give to customers who are not used to ordering shirts?


Izumi: We work with shirts on a daily basis, so we have an image of the fabrics and styling that we'd like to see. However, for first-time customers, we first ask "what occasion will you be wearing it for?" Once we understand that occasion and image, we can pretty much decide on the shirt they want. Then, we ask "how do you want to wear it and how do you want it to look?" and decide on the collar style, colors, patterns, and so on.

Kawada : I see. So, as you get used to wearing custom-made shirts, you move on to the next step: "creating shirts from fabrics that you can't find in ready-made shirts."

Izumi: That's right. That's why ordering becomes so fun, and I get hooked. (laughs)

Suda , Izumi-san, this is a great opportunity, so why not try ordering a shirt from Makers Shirt Kamakura?

A traditional-style casual shirt that goes well with a Tailor Kade suit.

What are the distinguishing features of Izumi Makers Shirt Kamakura's custom-made shirts? I hear that they carefully incorporate customer data into the manufacturing process.


Kawada, thank you. Almost all of my dress shirts are custom-made by Makers Shirt Kamakura, and they are characterized by their beautiful silhouette and a comfortable fit that doesn't feel restrictive even when made slim-fitting. I think Kamakura Shirts are unique in that they understand the characteristics of the Japanese physique, making the visible parts slim and the other parts more voluminous. Do you often wear custom-made shirts, Izumi-san?

Izumi says that because he has long arms, he can wear imported shirts without needing alterations. He can't wear domestic shirts because his arms are too short, so he prefers ready-made imported shirts. This time, he wants to have a shirt made that will match the Tailor Kade cotton suit he's wearing today.

At Kawada Makers Shirts Kamakura, the first step is choosing your fabric. We always have over 300 types of fabrics in stock, with prices varying in three stages. Next, we do a fitting. Typically, you choose a standard size from our ready-made shirts and then make adjustments to specific areas. Finally, using an iPad, you select the design of the body, collar, and cuffs, as well as options such as pockets and embroidery to complete the process. You can choose from three body designs: slim fit, classic fit, and a shorter casual style.


Izumi , that's very clear. I'll go with this seersucker tattersall check fabric. It has just the right amount of coolness for summer, and it can be worn with a suit, of course, but also casually on its own. I'd like a classic fit, and I'd like it to be a button-down style.

If you're looking for a Kawada button-down shirt, I recommend the "SPORT" model, which has a thin interlining. It features a longer collar and soft interlining, and it looks neat and tidy when worn with a knit tie.

I'm looking forward to seeing Izumi completed!

Three different styles using the finished shirts.

Ms. Suda: "A simple outfit using items that are full of thoughtful details."

The Izumi shirt is finished! Mr. Suda, could you tell us what you think of it after wearing it? The tie looks great with it.

The Suda 80-count broadcloth fabric is just as thick as I expected, and it feels unlike anything I've ever worn before. Because it was tailored to fit my body so well, it's a beautiful dress shirt despite being a button-down.

Since there are no narrow ties on the market, I launched my own brand called "THE NARROW TIE." Today's outfit is a simple navy blazer, a white broadcloth shirt, and a 6.5cm wide tie—a style full of personal touches that only I would understand.

The collar opening on the Izumi button-down shirt is really cool. The V-zone is reminiscent of Kennedy.

To accommodate a 6.5cm wide tie, I had the collar width widened by 1cm, and the small tie knot and collar width now match perfectly. I think it's a button-down shirt that can be worn with a suit.

Kawada: "A shirt that goes perfectly with a linen suit and tie."

Mr. Izumikawada's request was for "a shirt that would go well with a brown linen suit."

Kawada is very pleased that the fit of the collar, which he was most particular about, turned out ideally. He wanted to pair a regular collar with a printed tie with a thin interlining, so he consulted with us in detail, but he was surprised that it fit so well and looked this good on the first try.

Izumi Masami, this is the quintessential dress shirt.

The Kawada fabric has a nice feel and is soft to the touch, so I'm very satisfied.

Izumi: "A suit, shirt, and knit tie complete the American traditional look."

Ms. Izumi Suda, how about a custom-made shirt from Makers Shirt Kamakura?

I ordered a shirt to go with my suit from Izumi Tailor Kade, and it's exactly as I imagined. It has the classic, relaxed fit I wanted, and the seersucker material is perfect for this time of year because it doesn't cling to the skin. I wish there were ready-made shirts like this!

Kawada: The "Sport" collar that I recommended also had a nice roll, so it was the right choice.

Looking at Izumi Suda's V-zone alone, she has a Woody Allen-esque vibe.

The shirt and knit tie add just the right amount of playfulness, softening the overall feel of the Izumi suit.

We discussed the charm of Shinjuku at the famous Shinjuku restaurant "Shinjuku Ramburu".

Izumi Makers Shirts Kamakura Shinjuku 3-chome store and Isetan are neighbors, but Shinjuku is an interesting city where the atmosphere and scenery change as you walk around. Actually, I've been going to Shinjuku since high school, so I've been commuting here for about 13 years now.

Kawada has been there for 13 years! Wow. Do you like Shinjuku?

I like Izumi because it has everything. The west exit is a business district, but the 3rd district and Kabukicho are chaotic shopping areas, the area around the Kamakura Shirts store is a bit like Marunouchi, and if you go towards the Imperial Garden, there are hardly any people and it's full of greenery. I don't like orderly cities like Marunouchi, so Shinjuku is calming for me.

Suda: I'm not a big fan of Shinjuku because it's so crowded, but I love movies, so I like to go there to watch a movie and then stop by Isetan on my way home (laughs). Shinjuku is a really deep, gritty town, like something out of a Kadokawa movie.

Kawada: I like traditional coffee shops and cafes, so I come here on my days off too. Shinjuku is my workplace, but there are all sorts of people here, and that chaotic feeling creates the unique atmosphere of the city.

Suda: Maybe I just don't know the charm of Shinjuku, so please take me somewhere interesting next time.

There are many unique and delicious restaurants in the Izumi Gyoen area, so you should definitely go!

Three shirts, each reflecting individual tastes and preferences. What does the future hold for custom orders?

Kawada: Now that the COVID-19 pandemic has subsided, I hope the trend of ordering custom-made shirts after ordering custom-made suits will take off.

Because the number of people who wear Suda suits has become limited, I think that those people will become a core group, eventually opting for custom-made suits and pursuing their own unique tastes.

I want Izumi- Shinjuku to be a town where those kinds of dedicated people can enjoy ordering custom-made items as a "cool adult hobby."

Kawada: Because Shinjuku is a place with such a diverse population, I hope that even more people will enjoy dressing up in formal attire.

Izumi : The shift from the era of mass production and mass consumption to made-to-order clothing that pays attention to the traceability of fabrics and sewing is also related to sustainability, and I believe that the awareness will change to "sustainability means cherishing and wearing a garment that you have an emotional attachment to for a long time."

Suda: Indeed, we always prioritize "orders that are satisfactory."

Izumi: Let's wear the shirts we made this time for a long time.

• Filming cooperation
  
  Maker's Shirt Kamakura MEN'S Shinjuku Store
  1F, Shinjuku 3-1-26, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
  TEL 03-5362-0340
  Opening hours: 11:00 AM to 8:00 PM
  
  Classic Songs & Coffee Shinjuku Ramble
  3-31-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
  TEL 03-3352-3361
  Opening hours: 9:30 AM - 6:00 PM (Last order 5:00 PM)
  Closed on New Year's Day

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Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa
Text: Makoto Kajii

＊All prices include tax.
*Masks are removed only during filming.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

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