The "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2021," which concluded with great success this autumn, has solidified the image of "Isetan as a shoe store." From Wednesday, November 17th Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building Men's Shoes, will be holding an even more "challenging" promotion. This event will focus solely on the shoe collection of Figvel, a fashion brand that proposes classic, high-quality, and timeless real clothes based on the concept of "new classic." In this sales area that gathers the world's finest shoes, what is the reason for deliberately promoting shoes from a "clothing store"? In a three-way discussion with Figvel designer Hideki Higashino, Figvel Production Control Shogo Kurokawa, and the mastermind behind the event, men's shoe buyer Sota Miyashita, we will explore their aims and highlights.

Who is Figbell, the band that champions "New Classic"?

Buyer Sota Miyashita (hereinafter, Miyashita): Today, I visited PROD tokyo in Nakameguro to speak with Mr. Higashino and Mr. Kurokawa about the Figbelle promotion at the men's shoe section on the first basement floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . This may be sudden, but could you tell us about the Figbelle brand from the perspective of the designer, Mr. Higashino?

Hideki Higashino, Figvel Designer (hereinafter, Higashino): I'm not very good at explaining things in words, but I try to answer in a simple way by saying, "It's really good everyday wear" (laughs). It's not formal wear, but it's the finest everyday wear, I guess... Broadly speaking, it's daily wear, but I think it's a brand that can be used for both dressy and casual occasions.

I think Miyashita 's style follows an old American aesthetic, but it can be worn in a refined and modern way. The sophisticated balance makes it easy to incorporate into contemporary Tokyo fashion, and I feel it truly embodies the brand's concept of "new classic." It's a brand I've loved and worn since my student days (laughs).

Higashino : Thank you (laughs). It's true that the main source of design inspiration is America, but actually, many of my designs are a mix of various elements. My tastes are all over the place; I like not only old things but also newer American styles, and I also like Europe. I guess you could say that there's an American classic at the core, and then I add European tastes and modernity to it. I'm always conscious of this "mixed feel."


Higashino: And what I value most is "balance." I think that the things that people find good or cool are often things that have a certain balance, so they naturally reach for them. I can't say this applies to everyone because it depends on their preferences, but... for a shirt, it could be the placement of the pockets, the choice of material, or the combination of colors. I feel that people are less likely to pick up things that look out of place. But I do like to disrupt the balance of things that are well-balanced as objects through the coordination of the outfit.

Shogo Kurokawa, Production Control (hereinafter, Kurokawa): I joined the company in 2015, but before that, I was in charge of buying Figvel at a select shop in Osaka. When I was in high school, I was introduced to Figvel at a select shop in my hometown of Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, and the first thing I saw was a distressed work-style denim jacket. I was told, "These are processed by hand, so each one has a different look," and I was shocked, thinking, "There are clothes like that!?" Since then, I've been interested in Figvel, and I wanted to know more and more about it as a user... Even when I was in Osaka, I only wore Figvel myself. I was allowed to wear clothes from other brands that we carried, on the condition that I would sell them properly (laughs).


Higashino: Nowadays, sophisticated designs are the mainstream, but when I first started the brand, I was really into workwear and developed a lot of processed items. Because I was young, I just kept going, digging into things I thought were cool and reflecting them in my collections. I never thought about making things that would sell, and I didn't know what would sell anyway (laughs). Making only things I like hasn't changed from then to now.

I was also happy that no one around me was wearing it. The people at the Matsuyama store flattered me by saying, "It's awesome that you're wearing Figvel at your age (high school student)," and I was really impressed (laughs).

Higashino : That's true, many of the people who wear Figbell might be those who like to stand out from the crowd.

The background of designer Hideki Higashino's creative process

Miyashita: By the way, Mr. Higashino, what were you doing before you started Figbell?

From around the age of 19, I worked for about six years at a shop called Hectic in Ura-Harajuku (a legendary select shop opened in 1994 by pro skater Yoshifumi Egawa and vintage clothing store Vintage King buyer Naotake Magara). I met the members of Hectic at a hangout spot, and I joined the company, and it was fun because work felt like an extension of play. It was an incredibly cool shop, not only for its selection of goods but also for its culture, and I was given the opportunity to work as a staff member, store manager, launch new stores, and eventually even plan clothing designs.

I enjoyed my job, but as the company grew and the number of employees increased, it became more structured and required a more formal organizational approach, becoming more like a typical, established company. I started to feel that this was a departure from the style I had envisioned for myself.
Without knowing whether it would be a brand or a shop, I started to feel like I wanted to do "something" on my own. I had been involved in clothing production until the end, so I thought that if I could give shape to my ideals there, I could experience the passion and joy I used to feel again, and that's how I became independent and launched my own original brand, Figvel.

It's amazing that Miyashita went independent at the age of 25.



Higashino: I wasn't thinking about it that dramatically; I was just young and didn't think ahead. I just kind of went with the flow and thought, "I'll just do it myself." I launched a brand and never even imagined it might fail. If you calmly ask me, "Could you do the same thing now?"...I'd have to think about it (laughs). Because I've learned so much. There was definitely a strength in not knowing things.

It's unique that you went from the skater-style Hectic to the completely different "new classic" Figbell. What was the reason for that?

Higashino: That was something that was said even back then. For our first exhibition, we invited buyers who had worked with us at Hectic, and everyone was surprised (laughs). Some said they liked the unexpectedness, while others said it was too unexpected and ended up not doing business with us. It was about half and half. That's because, even though I had left, I loved Hectic, so I thought there was no point or need to do something Hectic-like once I went independent. So I decided to take a completely different approach.

Higashino : So, I thought about what to do and decided to go back to the roots of my fashion: American vintage clothing. Actually, a distant relative of mine runs a vintage clothing store in my hometown of Akita, and when I was a high school student and first became interested in fashion, I used to hang out there all the time. Because I got into fashion through vintage clothing, I decided to pursue the good old American classics that gave me such a strong initial impulse.

Hectic's worldview, which mixed different styles and cultures such as skater, vintage, hip hop, and high fashion, was innovative and interesting. Perhaps Figvel's style of mixing "something" with American classics was inevitable.

The reason why this groundbreaking event is being held at ISETAN MEN'S

Kurokawa : Initially, we at PROD had two directly managed stores in Tokyo and Kanazawa, and we had business partners all over the country, so we never imagined we would be doing business with Isetan. Figvel is a niche brand in a sense, so we thought we were in the opposite position to a major shop like Isetan (laughs).
However, I had the opportunity to meet one of Ms. Miyashita's senior buyers in my private life, and I felt a strong connection with her on a sensibility level. So, I thought, "It would be great if we could work together on something someday." But, I never really envisioned introducing clothes... (laughs). So, I thought, how about shoes?

Miyashita , I know I'm being persistent (laughs), but ever since I was a student, I've loved American classic clothing and culture, and I've always been a big fan of Figvel. However, when I was looking at Figvel as the person in charge of men's contemporary on the 6th floor, I felt that it was a little too culturally charged to introduce to Isetan's customers. That's why I deliberately didn't ask to do business with them. So, the idea of focusing only on Figvel shoes, rather than clothing, was a real eye-opener for me.

Kurokawa and I had often talked about wanting to properly introduce shoes somewhere. We were looking for a place where we could show that shoes are just as good as clothes. So we approached ISETAN MEN'S with the idea of a project focused solely on shoes.

I heard from senior buyer Miyashita that Figvel was thinking of launching a shoe line, so I literally came running (laughs). Looking at their shoe collection again, I was struck by their incredible attention to detail in the production process, including the creation of original lasts. You can really feel their passion for shoes themselves. I was also impressed that they offer not only models that fit each season's collection, but also a solid range of classic styles.

Furthermore, I was personally very curious to see how Figvel shoes would be perceived by discerning customers looking for "something good," not by people who buy shoes at the same time as their clothes, but in the shoe department, especially in a shoe department that carries only high-end shoes like JOHN LOBB , Church's , and ALDEN .

Introducing only "shoes" from Miyashita's total fashion brand is a first for both Figvel and ISETAN MEN'S men's shoes. However, I strongly emphasized that "there is no better place to sell them than ISETAN MEN'S , especially in terms of measuring the effectiveness for the future!" (laughs). There are certainly tons of "specialized shoe brands." But Figvel shoes have a really great balance. I think they have an "atmosphere" that can only be expressed by a fashion brand, something that shoe brands can't achieve.

Figvel's unique commitment to shoes

Higashino: I think that's because our shoes are "awkward" as shoes (laughs). A professional shoe designer probably wouldn't make shoes with this balance. The craftsman I've been entrusting the work to has pointed it out to me many times, but it seems like something's off (laughs).

Since I'm not a shoe designer, I don't know the theory of shoemaking, which is why I make all sorts of free requests. For example, if I ask to move the position of the eyelets, I might be told, "It will rub against your foot and hurt," or "The balance will be off." When I had a shoe made from a single piece of leather, I received advice such as, "You should add a seam," or "This way, it will be easier to cut the leather." All of this is said with good intentions as a shoemaker, so I sometimes accept and change it, but there are also many things that I absolutely cannot compromise on. It's my commitment to using a single piece of leather and to achieving the best balance for myself. Since I've been working with this craftsman for a long time, he understands this, and thanks to that, there have been many models that have been born from the realization that, "Hey, it's actually possible if you try it."


Higashino : There are so many "amazing" clothes out there. Shoe brands are constantly releasing new and interesting shoes with innovative designs and ideas. So, whether it's clothes or shoes, I don't really have a strong desire to design something new; it's more like editing. I'm focused on how I can digest things I truly love and good things that have been around for a long time, and express them in my own way, in a way that's uniquely Figvel.

Miyashita : Among the many Figvel shoes, the "SERVICE SHOES," which is the only standard model, is truly based on "good things that have been around for a long time."

At the heart of Higashino's work is, of course, vintage. But even though I love the original service shoes issued by the U.S. Navy, I can't wear them because they hurt (laughs). They're made with a last designed for Americans, so they don't fit the feet of a typical Japanese person like me. These "SERVICE SHOES" are a remake of the service shoes I wanted to wear but couldn't, using a last that fits my own feet.

The balance of the ending seems different compared to Miyashita's original.

The key point of these shoes is that they 're American classics with a narrow silhouette and plain toe, but they fit well and are easy to wear. If we were just pursuing coolness in terms of shape, I think we could do a lot more. But if we did that, the balance when you wear them would be off. We first made them for the Spring/Summer 2012 collection, but because it's a design that anyone can wear anytime, we aimed to make them a staple and spent about two years updating them many times. We repeatedly improved the last, stitching, overall balance, shoelaces, etc., and the current model was "completed" in Spring/Summer 2014. At first, the position of the eyelets was completely different from what it is now, and the last was even slimmer and more three-dimensional. But I think there's no such thing as "completion." There are always a few things that I want to change. I guess this is something that will never end (laughs).

Miyashita , the products are manufactured in a domestic factory, right?

For my first pair of leather shoes, I commissioned a well-known factory in the industry. While their work was certainly "excellent" and neatly put together, I felt it wasn't quite what I was looking for. That's when I came across a factory in Saitama. I felt like I was creating something together with younger members, which I really appreciated.

However, that factory had to close down midway through production due to financial difficulties, and we were unable to take out any of the wooden molds, parts, or anything else. It was the Figbell staff at that factory who managed to recover everything and get the production back on track.

The members quickly gathered together, rented a small space in Asakusa, installed used machinery, and resumed production. They had also lost their previous work, so we asked them to continue working for us! Since then, for over 10 years, those members have been making Figbell shoes for us.

From standard items and continuing models to seasonal items and even exclusive pre-order models.

Kurokawa: This time, along with "SERVICE SHOES," I'd like to recommend "AVIATOR ZIP BOOTS." These boots first appeared in Fall/Winter 2018 in sheepskin material. However, we received feedback that "they're too warm and it's a shame that they can only be worn in winter," so from Fall/Winter 2019, nubuck without sheepskin was added, followed by horse leather in Fall/Winter 2020, and box calf in Fall/Winter 2021, which were added to the lineup of upper materials. Incidentally, in response to requests from female customers, we have also been offering women's sizes since last year, and they are just as popular as "SERVICE SHOES." They are becoming the "face" of the brand.



Higashino: This model was created with the image of old-fashioned outdoor boots and aviator boots in mind, focusing on ease of wear and warmth. It was born from the pursuit of creating a shoe that looks sharp at first glance, but is covered in sheepskin. I really dislike the bulkiness that is typical of sheepskin boots (laughs). If you wear these, people won't even think they're sheepskin boots. From there, a leather type that is easy to wear regardless of the season was developed, and I'm happy that it has become popular not only among men but also among women.

In addition to Kurokawa 's standard "SERVICE SHOES" and the continuing "AVIATOR ZIP BOOTS," we hope to introduce seasonal items and past archive pieces as well.

Higashino: I think we've made over 20 different styles of shoes so far, and we have such a wide variety of shoes that people sometimes say we don't look like a typical fashion brand. Initially, we didn't intend to make so many, but as we started thinking things like, "It would be cool to have a work boot like this this season," in line with each season's theme, the number of shoes increased before we knew it (laughs).

Miyashita: Also, for this event, we were able to create the "SIDE-GORE BOOTS," which will be available exclusively at ISETAN MEN'S , so please look forward to them.

The reason we requested side-gore boots is because the demand for side-gore boots has been steadily increasing in the market this year. Perhaps the "real" end of the sneaker boom is in sight, and when people who have only worn sneakers decide to wear leather shoes, side-gore boots are a sure bet because they have a street style and are easy to put on and take off. In fact, this year, leather shoes, especially side-gore boots, are selling very well. It was a really long winter, though (laughs). Figvel already offers side-gore boots in a variety of materials, so our initial plan was to request them in Horween's shell cordovan, which gives them a special feel.

However , cordovan is delicate and cannot withstand the crimping process (shaping the upper leather) which is essential for side-gore boots. That's when I came up with the idea of using Weinheimer's box calf leather.

Miyashita : So, Weinheimer is the company that inherited the "original" box calf leather production method from the prestigious German tannery, Carl Freudenberg, right?

Among what's broadly called box calf leather, this one is truly special; even though it's black, the shade is completely different from other blacks. It has a certain depth to it, an industrial, or perhaps German feel to it (laughs). But it's a bit too dressy and a bit too expensive for our inline collection... I thought it would be absolutely fantastic, though. The "SIDE-GORE BOOTS" have a rugged, undressy last, so I thought that putting this leather on the upper would actually create a good balance.

Weinheimer is a small company, but they are an amazing tannery that has everything meticulously planned, right down to the details of the final polishing. They send us recipes that tell us exactly how many minutes of buffing are needed to achieve a certain shine on a particular type of leather.

If you're a customer of Miyashita ISETAN MEN'S , even if Figvel is a brand you've never seen before, you'll surely feel that it offers value far exceeding its price.

The finishing of the welt by Higashino is completely different from that of the inline shoes that we have been continuously developing since the Fall/Winter 2018 collection. Personally, I like this type of finish, but it involves a lot of complicated work that our usual factory can't handle. Because the quantity is limited, we are doing something special that we don't normally do. We are planning to have the finishing done at a different factory. The sole also uses oak bark sole bends from Rendenbach, a German company (tannin-tanned leather specifically for soles extracted from oak bark), and I think it will be a dressy yet everyday shoe that combines the refined image of ISETAN MEN'S customers with Figvel's classic style.

I believe there are many customers looking for Miyashita side-gore boots, so in addition to these Weinheimer box calf boots, I've also decided to order a custom version in Horween's roughout leather (reverse leather).

Higashino roughout leather is a material we often use in our shoes, but this is the first time we're using it on side-gore boots. I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out, as it will have a different look than usual. It's a tough material that ages beautifully, so we've paired it with a Dainite sole from Harboro Rubber. Both styles are available in black only. Although they are both black side-gore boots, they give completely different impressions, yet each should have a perfect balance.

A world that expands through "dialogue" with shoes that embody culture

Miyashita : Lastly, could you tell us your honest feelings right now regarding this event?

Although it's only for Higashino Shoes, this is an opportunity for Isetan customers to experience the Figvel brand for the first time. I'm really looking forward to seeing how customers who know all about good shoes will react when we introduce a fashion brand's shoes in the shoe department.

These shoes are a little different from the high-end overseas brands, so please feel free to drop by with a casual "I'll just take a look" attitude. I'm sure you'll be satisfied not only with the design but also with the comfort once you try them on. I would be even happier if the shoes sparked your interest in the Figvel brand, the clothing collection, and PROD tokyo itself.


Miyashita: I see this event as an opportunity for customers to experience the difference between what a shoe-specialist brand aims for in terms of "good shoes" and what a fashion brand with a cultural background aims for in terms of "good shoes." That's why I want to introduce Figvel's culture, values, and themes, rather than just showing them shoes. I think that purchasing a product after understanding the brand's background can become a new shopping style for customers.

"If a shoe has a theme like that, how can I incorporate it into my outfit?" By taking an interest in the brand's cultural aspects, we can engage in a new kind of "dialogue" with shoes that we haven't experienced before. This leads to a deeper appreciation of shoes as an item. I hope that many people will come to know that there are many different ways to enjoy shoes.

View Figbell products at Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store