Aquascutum , which celebrated its 170th anniversary in 2021, has evolved alongside the changing times, and its masterpiece is undoubtedly the trench coat.

Mr. Sato, store manager of Aquascutum on the 2nd floor of the main building of Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, and Mr. Iwamoto, men's clothing supervisor at Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, discussed the appeal of the trench coat, which has established itself as an icon alongside the brand's history.

What are the roots of Aquascutum brand, which remains immensely popular even today?

Iwamoto : First, could you tell us about the history of Aquascutum ?

Sato : It all began in 1851 when tailor John Emery opened a menswear shop on Regent Street in London. From its inception, the brand has been at the forefront of the industry thanks to its superior craftsmanship and technological innovation.

Two years after its founding, Emarie created the first waterproof wool fabric, which was then patented. This unique development gave rise to the brand name Aquascutum , which means "water shield" in Latin.

Later, the fabric's water-repellent and durable properties led to the British Army commissioning the production of trench coats and military uniforms. In 1897, the brand received a Royal Warrant from King Edward VII, and its name spread throughout the world.


Iwamoto : The history of the coats that your brand excels at began with a request from the British Army, right? What is the brand's philosophy and commitment to quality?

Sato : The brand's philosophy is ultimately encapsulated in the trench coat. The trench coat has been a masterpiece and an icon of Aquascutum for over 90 years, unchanged. When it comes to the trench coat, it's a policy the brand will not compromise on.


Iwamoto : So the brand's icon, which you've maintained for 90 years, has become the brand's policy, right? Is the trench coat also at the heart of your manufacturing process?

Sato : That's right. We always start our manufacturing process with a trench coat in mind. From there, it spreads, and for example, with blousons, we often add a D-ring on the belt or a gun patch, or incorporate a trench coat accent somewhere in the design.

The brand's journey alongside legendary actors and celebrities who were captivated by the trench coat.

Iwamoto : When you think of Aquascutum trench coats, Sean Connery and other great actors wear them so stylishly in movies, don't they? Because of that influence, I think it's a masterpiece that can be called "a man's dream."


Sato : That's right, the movie stars of yesteryear wore them with great style. They were loved not only in movies, but also by various great figures.
I've heard that when we received a Royal Warrant from Edward VII, he was very impressed with the strength and waterproof properties of Aquascutum fabric.

Furthermore, when Sir Edmund Hillary became the first person in the world to successfully climb Mount Everest in 1953, a windproof and durable fabric called "Wincol D711" was developed and adopted. While valuing the materials used in trench coats, they have always considered and incorporated such advanced materials into their manufacturing process.

Iwamoto : I believe your trench coats continue to be loved because you have consistently pursued excellence in craftsmanship while also always listening to and responding to the requests of many customers, without neglecting either aspect.

Exploring the trench coat, a masterpiece that transcends time and continues to be cherished in the modern era.

Iwamoto : Are most of Aquascutum 's current customers starting out with a trench coat?

Sato : That's right, many people start by purchasing a trench coat as their first entry point into the brand. They come to our store because they want to see Aquascutum trench coats in person. Trench coat enthusiasts are often connoisseurs, and they are very knowledgeable about the history and details. Of course, they are also very discerning, so we are thorough when it comes to manufacturing our products.


Iwamoto : So, it's a quality that will satisfy even the most discerning and enthusiastic customers, right?

Sato : That's right. Once customers like it, they often buy it in a different color, or they add another classic coat, like the Rover trench coat, to their collection. It becomes a lifelong relationship.

Iwamoto : I see. With other brands, customers are often people who buy suits or jackets, but that's a huge difference between your brand and others.

Sato : Some people start with suits, but there's a strong perception that " Aquascutum means coats," so they come in with a specific purpose in mind to buy a coat, and then they find a nice suit there too, and that's how it expands.

Iwamoto : Lately, I've noticed an increase in young people looking for trench coats.

Sato : We're seeing a significant increase in young people wearing our coats casually. Because it's a timeless, perfected design, if you like it, you won't need to buy a trendy coat every year.

To be honest, the price is on the higher side, but the after-sales service is excellent, so you can enjoy wearing your garment for a long time. The brand always keeps spares of accessories such as buttons, belts, and epaulets, so even if you lose an epaulet at the dry cleaner, for example, we have the necessary repair parts, so there's no need to worry.


Iwamoto : That's wonderful. So, young people would rather have something that costs 200,000 yen that they can wear for 20 years than something that costs 30,000 yen that they can no longer wear in a year.

Sato : Yes. And it's a timeless classic that never goes out of style.

What is Aquascutum aiming for as a guide to the future?

Iwamoto : As you approach your 170th anniversary, what direction are you aiming for?

Sato : This is just my personal opinion, but the COVID-19 pandemic has definitely changed our customers' lifestyles. We want to move away from our traditional, somewhat rigid image and increase the number of lighter items we offer.
However, no matter how much lifestyles change, the trench coat remains a timeless classic, and I want to continue sharing its appeal.

We believe our mission is to offer a more casual approach, or a new way of wearing a trench coat, to those who wear trench coats over their suits. We intend to continue evolving beyond our 170th anniversary, carefully considering these factors.


Iwamoto : So your mission is to preserve the important traditions while proposing new possibilities for the trench coat. As a brand, you've collaborated with brands like Supreme and The Rose of Versailles in the past, and you seem to be very good at approaching the new generation.

Nowadays, in addition to collaborations, you also cater to customers' personal needs, focusing on custom and made-to-order items, right?



Sato : That's right. With coat customization, you can attach patches or cutting sheets to your existing coats. We recommend this to people who own multiple coats or those who are looking to replace their worn-out coats. Customizing a coat that has aged nicely will make it a great addition to casual outfits, so we highly recommend it. We hope you'll enjoy customizing your old coats and creating a casual trench coat look.

Iwamoto : So you're offering various suggestions so that customers can enjoy their trench coats for a long time. Your custom coat orders are also very popular, aren't they?

Sato : Yes, we hold a coat ordering event every year during a set period.

Iwamoto : To what extent can it be custom-made?

Sato : First, you can choose the fabric, then the lining, and then the liner. Of course, we will make it to your size. In the case of a trench coat, the width is determined by your height, so we can make a custom order to fit your body type, whether you are well-built or tall. We also offer lining replacement for ready-made coats.

Iwamoto : There are so many ways to enjoy them. There's a project to add patches, you can order them made to your size from the start, and even though they're ready-made, you can choose the lining.


Sato : I don't think you often find a court where you can take that much time and effort to choose from a variety of options.

Iwamoto : So, for 170 years, you've been thinking about how to enjoy wearing trench coats and cherish them for a long time. I'm looking forward to what Aquascutum will do in the future.

• Aquascutum trench coat reference price

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  • Trench coat "KINGSWAY" (Masterpiece model) 220,000 yen (Made in the UK)
  • Trench coat pattern order: from 165,000 yen (made in Japan)
  - Patches and cutting sheets: Two types available - Free and ¥1,650

Photo & Text: NIHOMBASHI MITSUKOSHI MEN'S
Edited by: ISETAN MEN'S net