'MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S' Vol.2 | A comprehensive explanation of the special order items born from this miraculous collaboration!
Following up on our previous feature on the collaboration items between BEAMS F's Nishiguchi and ISETAN MEN'S Inaba , we spoke with Kazuhiko Muto, director of BEAMS original label Brilla per il gusto, and Masaki Taniguchi, buyer for ISETAN MEN'S .
However, this is only a small part of the lineup. The full lineup will be announced at a later date. Stay tuned!
- (Right) Kazuhiko Muto
BEAMSBrilla per il gusto Director
Since 1992, he has been a buyer for the Beams dress department, and since 2003, he has been the director of the original label Brilla per il gusto. He tackles the timeless theme of "clothes that make men attractive," and directs product collections with a focus on natural and stylish looks.
Instagram► @kazuhiko.muto
(Left) Masaki TaniguchiIsetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing Buyer
Having previously served as an assistant buyer and shop manager in the clothing category at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , he assumed his current position in April. While grounded in classic styles, he constantly explores "clothing that the next generation of sophisticated men can wear," and works to create a shop that incorporates trends and new sensibilities.
Instagram► @masa_tt
MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S
View the list of custom-made products
A special collaboration collection infused with the passion of both parties!
EMMETI
8 Color Variations of the Popular Model "JURI" - Rider Jacket
*MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S Special Edition □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1F Promotion / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store
EMMETI 's single rider jacket EMMETI "JURI," is their most popular model.
Taniguchi is supported by many influencers.
Actually , I had Beams modify the shoulder construction of my Mutou suit specifically.
Taniguchi: I didn't know you could make such a custom order!
By adopting the same three-dimensional shoulder design as the Muto jacket, comfort has been improved.
Taniguchi: This time, we've lined up the "JURI" in eight different colored suede options.
Muto: Previously, when we released beautiful colors like white and royal blue for Brilla per il gusto, our customers were very happy, so this time, we chose a range of colors that aren't commonly found on the market but that we thought would be nice to have.
This color palette is unlike anything we've ever carried at ISETAN MEN'S , but it's a lineup that you might actually be able to pull off by pairing it with your existing denim.
In these times when it 's easy to feel down, I want people to wear clothes they can enjoy.
AUBERGE
French denim jacket inspired by fashion icons.
*MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S Special Edition □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1F Promotion / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store
Muto: This is a denim jacket that I had Mr. Manabu Kobayashi of AUBERGE recreate for me.
That's what a certain French artist, Taniguchi , was wearing, right? (laughs)
Muto, a legendary ladies' man who was said to be indifferent to clothing, wore tight-fitting garments, but these have been remade to fit in today's fashion. The denim color is a European blue that the French would likely appreciate. The embroidery on the back has also been reproduced with remarkable realism.
I didn't even know the brand of the original source material for Taniguchi's work.
Kobayashi, the designer behind Muto , is a vintage enthusiast and has even lived in Paris. According to Kobayashi, it might have been a mass-produced item from somewhere.
In the portraits that remain of Taniguchi , he wears it with great style. It's the kind of outfit that makes you want to try it yourself.
This is an item that I myself have always wanted to wear. That's why I have such a deep attachment to it.
YCHAI/Ikai
A new slim-fit denim model with a bleached color.
*MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S Special Edition □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1F Promotion / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store
While the "Robusto" is the standard model associated with Ikai Taniguchi, this is the new "Panatella" model.
Muto: The model I'm wearing right now is exactly that. It's a new straight silhouette with a slimmer thigh area than the Robusto. This might be easier for people over 40 to get used to.
While wide silhouettes are trending, the silhouettes that customers actually prefer are surprisingly often slimmer.
Muto: And then there's this bleached color. Right now, I'm really into light-colored denim like this.
Taniguchi Ikai's color variations were limited to rigid and one-wash, but we have now commissioned this new color as a special order.
Muto: This is a common occurrence in the industry, but sometimes a manufacturer who likes the result will make it a regular item from the next season onwards (laughs).
Taniguchi: This color will also be joining the standard color lineup starting next season.
Muto Italian denim goes incredibly well with jackets! This bleached color can be paired like white denim, and it's literally sexy, wouldn't you say?
Giabs Archivio
A set that's too good to be just casual wear for short outings.
Pants 41,800 yen View product
*MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S Special Edition □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1F Promotion / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store
Taniguchi: This casual set-up is currently very popular. When you think of a set-up with a parka, you might imagine it as casual wear for short outings, but this one is designed to be a fairly proper outfit for going out.
Muto: It's still difficult right now, but I'm imagining a parka set that you can wear on the train and go out to at night.
There was talk of using Taniguchi cashmere jersey, but we chose a high-quality wool jersey material so that it would be easy to wear every day. The pants model is "Masaccio."
The muto color is black. I figured if you're going to wear it as a set, it has to be all black. We paid a lot of attention to the details as well.
Taniguchi : Yes, the drawstring at the waist is made of braided cord, and the metal parts at the end and the zipper are all gunmetal. We couldn't find the right color, so we had to go to great lengths to get it made just right.
A different kind of casual wear for adults, unlike the jerseys from Muto Sportswear.
GRENFELL
A classic British stand collar jacket, showcasing its lining.
*MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S Special Edition □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1F Promotion / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store
Muto Grenfell holds an order event every year and is a central presence as a coat brand at Beams F.
It's a popular brand at Taniguchi Isetan.
The Muto model is a special order "Belted Campbell" from Beams F. They deliberately didn't use Grenfell cloth.
Taniguchi : Yes, after consulting with Mr. Nishiguchi, the director of Beams F, we decided to use a functional material that can be worn all year round.
The fact that it's a muted black color is also very F-like, or rather, masculine, isn't it?
For Taniguchi fashion users, black is definitely the most familiar choice.
What really makes it feel like Isetan is the lining. Black Watch!
The Taniguchi lining is removable, making it suitable for three seasons and allowing it to be worn for business use as well.
If it were me, I'd wear a crewneck sweater over jeans as a jacket. I'd wear Weston sneakers to give it a Parisian feel.
VALSTAR
Valstarino leather with a subdued sweetness
*MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S Special Edition □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1F Promotion / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store
Muto: This Valstarino is also based on a model specially ordered using Beams' original pattern.
Taniguchi: The width is a little loose, and I think it's a silhouette that fits well with today's times.
The key point is that at first glance, you wouldn't recognize it as a Valstar. Just the fact that it's made of genuine leather gives it an incredible allure.
Taniguchi sheepskin leather is soft and lightweight, making it easy to wear. At the same time, it has a nice, rugged, masculine feel to it.
Muto, short-length blousons are trending right now, so wouldn't that fit perfectly?
Taniguchi : It's an item that's on-trend, yet easy to add to your existing wardrobe.
Mutoh leather blousons are timeless items, so you can wear them regardless of trends.
DRUMOHR
BEAMS' popular striped cashmere knit released in their favorite colors.
*MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S Special Edition □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1F Promotion / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store
Taniguchi: This is an item that really highlights the difference between Beams and ISETAN MEN'S .
At Muto Beams, this black and brown striped pattern is a very popular color combination.
Taniguchi: I think we were able to showcase the unique style of Beams and ISETAN MEN'S in this kind of setting.
Muto: This year is a great year for stripes, so I'm sure there will be people at Isetan who will want to try wearing this color combination.
Taniguchi also uses pure cashmere for the material, giving it a luxurious feel. I learned a lot about new sensibilities.
The muto black x brown combination would go well with a brown jacket, or a white jacket like the one I'm wearing today. I'd like to try pairing the navy x royal blue with a navy blazer with gold buttons.
I can picture Taniguchi in my mind . Next spring, I'd like to try incorporating black and brown stripes into ISETAN MEN'S collection.
During the event, the directors of BEAMS F and Brilla per il gusto will be at the ISETAN MEN'S storefront to assist customers (Saturday, October 9th, 1 PM - 8 PM). An Instagram Live session is also planned!
→Information is also updated regularly on ISETAN MEN'S and Men's Tailored Clothing's Instagram accounts!
- October 13th (Wed) - October 19th (Tue) Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing
- Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store will begin selling some items from 10:00 AM on Wednesday, October 13th.
Related article ► 'MR_BEAMS meets ISETAN MEN'S'
Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa
Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
*All prices include tax.
*The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.
*Some errors were found in the text, and it has now been corrected. October 1, 2021
For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
For inquiries via email, please click here.
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