In recent years, it's not uncommon to see people wearing sandals when they visit Isetan Shinjuku during the summer months. In the past, casual sandals were reserved for beach or mountain resorts, or simply slipped on for short trips within a one-mile radius. However, in this new era of standards, sandals have risen in status and are now in the category of formal footwear, comparable to leather shoes and sneakers. It is in this new era of dress codes that TOKYO SANDAL was born. The designer is Katsuya Tokunaga. Let's introduce him along with his wild side—his disheveled hair tied back, and his love for riding a large motorcycle.

The first shoes I made were women's shoes.

"I made my first pair of shoes when I was a student. A friend of mine was putting on a fashion show and asked me to make some shoes for her. I was good with my hands, so I readily agreed. But I had no idea it would be this difficult..."


Since then, he has been captivated by shoemaking, has loved boots, and has continued to work as a shoe designer to this day.

I visited "The Boots Shop" in Asakusa with Miyashita, a shoe buyer at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . This shop houses the complete collection of shoe designer Katsuya Tokunaga. The corrugated iron exterior and the interior, overflowing with boots and leather goods, evoke the atmosphere of a warehouse in the Bronx, New York, an atmosphere personally directed by Tokunaga himself. A vintage Harley-Davidson ridden by a staff member and Tokunaga's beloved Vespa are parked in front of the shop, giving it a decidedly masculine feel. Yet, it's surprising to learn that his first creations were women's shoes.


Miyashita, was that in the mid-90s?

This was around the time when Tokunaga Antwerp 6 was gaining attention in Japan. Fashion was vibrant and exciting back then. I wasn't dressed like I am now either (laughs). When I started Rolling dub trio at the age of 27, I was initially making low-cut shoes, not boots.

Miyashita : Huh? Then why boots?

I've always liked Tokunaga motorcycles, but one day I decided to try making boots. Of course, I started referencing work boots from established brands. But then I realized there were a lot of processes that simply couldn't be done with Japanese technology. I could do something similar, but I wanted to get closer to the real thing, to recreate it, so I kept experimenting and refining it until I reached the pinnacle.

Rolling dub trio, which gained attention as a domestically produced boot brand by Miyashita and was featured in magazines, caught my interest, and I visited the store several times. I got the impression that the owner is quite particular and deeply involved in his work (laughs). I remember being a little surprised to see sandals in the store at that time.


Tokunaga's very first creation wasn't so much a sandal as a single-piece leather strap shoe. It was a model called "Heel Hold Slip-on" that could be worn all year round. The design used a strap with the leather at the heel folded outwards to fit the heel. I decided to seriously pursue sandals and launched my own brand, TOKYO SANDAL.

"TOKYO SANDAL" continues to evolve every day.

I believe Miyashita's shoes had thicker soles back then, too.

Tokunaga: I think it was about 3mm thick. Different tanned leathers are bonded together so that the sole itself acts as the shank (the core material embedded in the shoe's insole). The inspiration came from molded plywood used in butterfly chairs and skateboards. It's hard but flexible, so it rebounds and makes walking easier, and the arch of the foot is curved to support the arch. This technique is still being continued, with the recipe slightly changed each year.



Miyashita : People who usually wear boots don't wear sneakers in the summer, but flip-flops are too flimsy, so they became popular.

Tokunaga: I myself used to wear a certain famous brand of sandals, but I felt like I wanted something that fit my feet better. When I asked around, I realized that quite a few people around me felt that their sandals didn't fit well either. That's what inspired me to create something ergonomically designed to better suit the soles of Japanese feet.

Was Miyashita leather also domestically produced?

Tokunaga: That was the case at first. I even tried using Tochigi leather. But recently, not because I've been influenced by the keywords of the times like sustainable or ethical, but my awareness has shifted to a more flexible approach to manufacturing. I've used eco-leather for much of this collection.

Miyashita uses environmentally friendly manufacturing methods and promotes sustainability; this is the same leather used in Apple Watch straps. It's attracting attention all over the world right now.



Tokunaga soles are original designs, but some models also use Vibram soles.

Miyashita: This sole can be completely resoled, right?

Just like with Tokunaga leather shoes, I believe it's important to repair and wear sandals for a long time. Up until now, I didn't explain my work much, thinking it was enough if only those who understood it appreciated it, but from now on, I feel it's my mission to share it with others.

Finally, a Gurkha that has reached a level I am truly satisfied with.

Miyashita Tokyo Sandals is popular for its collection of sandals with Japanese elements, such as "setta," "tabi," "waraji," and "mizuhiki." Japan originally has a culture of wearing zori sandals, but it's interesting to see a "Japanese" taste incorporated into leather sandals.
When I thought of Tokunaga thong-type sandals, I immediately thought of straw sandals, so I actually bought a real pair, took them apart, and studied them. When I thought of slip-on sandals, I was reminded of those clinking sandals provided at the entrance of hot spring inns, so I even created a model called "Onsen Sandal." But I haven't particularly stuck to Japan. This time, Gurkha sandals will be featured at the Isetan pop-up.

Miyashita: This year, Gurkha has already started selling well at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building since before the summer, and it's incredibly popular.

Tokunaga: I've tried making Gurkha boots twice before, but I wasn't satisfied with the results, so I decided to try again this time. I've finally created a model that I'm happy with.

The Miyashita style is also beautiful. The toe stitching gives the toe a nice, three-dimensional shape.

Tokunaga : That's the point. With Gurkha boots, the leather on the toe area can be painful, right? When it comes to shoes, I want to eliminate as many uncomfortable elements as possible while wearing them.

The sole, featuring Miyashita 's original pattern, has a design that somewhat resembles the "three-tiered tortoise shell" pattern found in Japanese family crests. The metal fittings are also original, and the arch-supported sole is another key feature that makes them comfortable to wear. What's more, these Gurkha boots seem easy to incorporate into various outfits, which is a great advantage.


Tokunaga : That's something I've definitely considered. Personally, I don't want to wear shoes that are difficult to coordinate with my outfit, and I don't want my feet to look out of place.

Miyashita: The fact that it's a basic color is also a key point for its versatility. Isetan customers overwhelmingly prefer black leather sandals.


Tokunaga: One of our features is that we offer a wide range of sizes in the same design. We even have customers who come into the store as a couple, with the man buying the same model in black and the woman in white.

I think Miyashita Sandals have become quite popular and are now worn almost like leather shoes. The number of customers coming to department stores wearing sandals has increased dramatically. With this pop-up shop, I would like people who haven't known about Tokyo Sandals before to get to know the brand, and for those who are already familiar with it, I would like you to check out the new Gurkha sandals.


Akiko Tokunaga will also be launching a boot collection at Isetan. As a prelude to that, she will be unveiling cordovan boots at the shoe fair, so I hope you'll come and see them.

View TOKYO SANDAL at Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store