There is probably no other brand to which the concept of "POST JAPONISM" resonates as well as. ALMOSTBLACK is a brand that continues to express something entirely new and "strong" by mashing up refined Japanese aesthetics and global culture with its own unique modern sensibility. We interviewed its designer, Shunta Nakajima, to hear about this season's collection, which shows further evolution, the connection between fashion and art (culture) behind it, and his thoughts on the artists Kazuo and Fujiko Shiraga, whom the brand will feature for two seasons starting in Autumn/Winter 2021.




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Cutting-edge creations that showcase Japanese culture and aesthetics to the world.

After studying at Esmod Japon's Paris campus, Shunta Nakajima spent approximately two years and four seasons honing his skills at Raf Simons' elite atelier. Upon returning to Japan, he had a fateful encounter with Masaki Kawase, who had steadily built his career in the country, and together they established Almostblack in 2015.

Subsequently, the company transitioned to a division of labor, with Nakajima in charge of the conceptual Almostblack brand and Kawase in charge of the practical and timeless product Almostblack brand. Nakajima continues to pursue his unique creations that seamlessly connect fashion, street style, and art (culture).

The reason Nakajima decided to pursue a career in fashion was none other than seeing a runway show by Raf Simons, who would later become his mentor, on television.


"It's like a fusion of couture and streetwear. I was shocked by the collection, which maintained a punk spirit while being elegant and fashionable. At that time (late 1990s), Tom Ford was at the height of his career (known for his glamorous and sexy designs)."

I chose Esmod (as a place of study) because they had a Paris study program. I thought, "If I'm going to do fashion, it has to be Paris!" It was a rather simplistic idea (laughs). In Paris, I wanted to absorb as much as I could, so I watched a lot of runway shows. You have to convey everything you want to say in a show that's only 15 minutes long. And the world of fashion, where sales are almost entirely decided in that short time, was incredibly stimulating. I had hoped to work under Raf Simons in Antwerp after graduation, and I was really lucky to get in.

With "POST JAPONISM" as the concept of his creations, Nakajima and Almostblack have collaborated with renowned artists and their works, including Isamu Noguchi, a leading sculptor of the 20th century, and Kosei Matsui, a ceramic artist designated as a Living National Treasure. It seems that his strong awareness of Japan and his efforts to fuse fashion and art have been greatly influenced by his experiences studying in Paris and working with Raf Simons in Antwerp.

"Everyone I met in Europe loved their home country and hometown. Yet, I realized I didn't understand Japanese culture at all. The reason I hit it off with Kawase after returning to Japan was because we shared the same idea of wanting to create something that reflects our Japanese DNA, using traditional Japanese crafts and art as themes. We both shared the desire to show the world that we are Japanese and that there are wonderful artists in Japan."

According to Mr. Nakajima, in ancient Japan, a deep navy blue color, "almost black," known as "kabukuro," was considered noble and was highly valued as an auspicious color associated with victory. That's why he named the brand Almost Black, as it's "close" to that color. He also explains that the design is based not on the traditional Western golden ratio (1:1.618), but on the silver ratio (1:1.414), which is the standard of traditional Japanese beauty.

"The sizes of tatami mats and paper, Hello Kitty, and even the Google logo—they're all actually based on the silver ratio. That's why they're easy to see, familiar, and stylish. That's where we decided to start our manufacturing process."

For Nakajima, born in 1982, traditional Japonism, inspired by kimonos, ukiyo-e prints, and Kabuki, was never something familiar. Rather, he felt that anime, Ura-Harajuku culture, and artists like Kazuo Shiraga represented a modern and authentic unique Japanese culture.


"The Japan we grew up in and the fashion we love have their roots in Japanese culture that followed 'Japonism.' I'm interested in traditional Japanese clothing like kimonos, but I haven't actually worn them myself. I think they've become something niche that doesn't fit in with many Japanese people in this day and age."

How can I translate the "Japanese-ness" that I love so much into clothes that I myself want to wear, clothes that are cool? What kind of new Japanese clothing will emerge, shaping the ideas of Japan's proud artists through the filter of Almostblack? We believe that expressing this in a simple and easy-to-understand way is what 'POST JAPONISM' means to us.

Mr. Nakajima says he wasn't an art lover from a young age, but gradually developed a fondness for art because museums and other art galleries were readily available to him. However, during his student days, he created clothing based on the works of the Chapman brothers, Jake and Dinos, and was influenced by Raf Simons, who incorporates various elements other than fashion, such as art and architecture, into his image boards. For him, a creative style of fashion linked to art may be extremely natural and logical.

Artworks and artistic fashion created through perfect synergy.

Almostblack's theme for Fall/Winter 2021 is "A-Un." This term originates from the concept of "A-Un no Kokyu" (perfect synchronization of breathing) in Esoteric Buddhism, which represents the beginning and end of the universe, and describes two people acting in perfect harmony, even their breathing. The inspiration for this theme came from Kazuo and Fujiko Shiraga, a husband and wife team of leading Japanese artists.

Kazuo Shiraga was born in Hyogo Prefecture in 1924. He established a technique called "foot painting," in which he would hold onto a rope suspended from the ceiling and use his feet like a brush to paint. Many of his works were created with the support of his wife, Fujiko, who was also an artist, and were produced through a truly unspoken understanding between them.




"Almostblack started being carried at ISETAN MEN'S , and we were also interviewed there during the Fall/Winter 2016 season. At that time, the collection was themed around 'Gutai (Art Association),' and Kazuo Shiraga, whom we are featuring this season, was a central member of 'Gutai.' This must be fate, too (laughs)."

Ms. Nakajima originally started with a pure desire, like a consumer, to wear the works of her favorite artist, Kazuo Shiraga. However, whether by chance or fate, she stumbled upon an exhibition by Fujiko Shiraga, Kazuo Shiraga's wife, while on a business trip to Amagasaki.


"At first I didn't know who she was, but the surname Shiraga caught my attention... and it turned out she was Kazuo's wife, and she had been working with him on projects all along, supporting him. What's more, before that, she had apparently been working independently for about two years."

This collaborative relationship between husband and wife is wonderful; my wife handles the graphics and I do the design, which felt very similar to our own creative process. And since it wouldn't have been possible without Fujiko's support, I thought it wouldn't be right to focus solely on Kazuo.

So I asked the person in charge of this exhibition about the existence of the Shiraga couple's son, and I decided to ask them for a collaboration.

"I really wanted to use your works in my own collection, so I first wrote a letter, and later I went to meet you in person and spent a full two hours eloquently conveying my feelings."

Mr. Nakajima was so impressed by the works created with such perfect synergy by the extraordinary artist couple Kazuo and Fujiko Shiraga, that he felt a strong connection to the artists' background and relationship, which led him to request a collaboration. Regarding the commercial use of Shiraga's works, he jokes, "It's the first time in the world that we've done this, and even now I don't understand why they agreed (laughs)." However, the fact that this unprecedented and epoch-making project was realized is undoubtedly due to the trust placed in Nakajima's creations and the passionate feelings he conveyed.

"I like the printed T-shirts and other items sold in museum shops and often buy them, but for some reason there weren't any featuring Shiraga's work, and I really wanted one. As for the collaboration with Isamu Noguchi's work, people in the museum industry in Japan actually told me, 'Absolutely impossible! It's not going to happen!!' (laughs). But I couldn't give up, so I contacted the copyright manager in New York and conveyed my enthusiasm, and they said, 'Great, let's do it!'"

Even after obtaining permission to use the copyright, we still have to get permission from the artists and museums that own the works, so it's really a lot of work. Next season, which will continue to feature the Shiraga couple, the negotiations will be even more difficult. (laughs)

Nakajima's sincere approach of featuring the same artist for two seasons a year, to prevent them from being quickly consumed in the fast-paced fashion industry, may be one of the factors that makes it easier for him to gain the understanding of the artists.

While Kazuo Shiraga is known for his energetic and fierce red work, this season's selection from his archives features quiet, achromatic pieces. Along with similarly serene works by Fujiko, a total of five pieces are featured.



"Kazuo-san apparently said that he 'likes strange things that use red' in his own work, but there are also 'quiet and strong' pieces that are similar to Fujiko-san's work. For this autumn/winter season, we linked the couple's works with the keyword 'quiet and strong' and used selected pieces. Next season, on the other hand, we've selected only colorful pieces that are more suitable for spring/summer."

From simply printing artwork to switching fabrics to match the patterns of the pieces, and by skillfully combining various techniques, this breathtaking collection is a must-see, where clothing is elevated beyond mere canvases to become wearable art that brilliantly fuses fashion and art.

"Instead of simply incorporating it as a graphic, we consciously collaborated with the Shiraga couple through clothing, expressing Fujiko's signature torn and pasted-together washi paper style through fabric splicing and paneling. At the same time, we were also inspired by the culture of punk fans, who often attach patches of their favorite artists to the back of their jackets."

The collaborative items feature woven labels bearing the credits for the works of the Shiraga couple. It seems that this reflects Mr. Nakajima's deep respect for the artists and their work, as well as his passionate desire for more people to learn about the Shiraga couple themselves.

A T-shirt featuring a graphic representation of "Aun" (a Japanese concept of harmony and harmony) will also be available exclusively at ISETAN MEN'S

Almostblack's latest collection, themed "A-Un," is a collaboration with Kazuo and Fujiko Shiraga. A T-shirt featuring the original graphic used in the lookbook will be released as a limited-edition item, available only at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 2F, Men's Creators section, and the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.

"Regarding the graphics that Almostblack handles, I always just convey the image, and I leave it up to my wife to decide exactly where and how to express it. This floral graphic, which is inspired by the concept of 'Aun' (a harmonious interplay between two people), was of course created by my wife."

The paper, printed with peonies on the front and Japanese andromeda (Pieris japonica) on the back, twists to create a design that makes the two appear as one. Apparently, peonies were Kazuo's favorite flower and Japanese andromeda were Fujiko's favorite, and we've superimposed our own existence as a couple onto them."

On the back, there is an English "critique" of the collection by Yuzuru Murakami, a writer specializing in art and photography. This could be seen as an evaluation from the art world of this season's Almostblack collection and the collaboration between the Shiraga couple and the Nakajima couple.

"In the art world, there's a culture where a work only becomes worthy of evaluation after it's been criticized and articulated. I felt that this kind of criticism doesn't exist in fashion, which is why I asked Murakami to do it. She has a deep understanding of fashion. I felt that she was able to take a bird's-eye view of the entire collection, and also pay close attention to the creators and the process of making things."

Furthermore, by comparing the work to that of a certain historical literary giant, the remarkable "perfect synergy" between the Shiraga couple was highlighted, and the challenge of expressing their work as a fashion statement was also appreciated. Men's fashion has a culture of "deep dive," so I think it would become even more interesting if this kind of fashion criticism were established.

In recent times, art has become more accessible, and the gap between fashion and art is said to be smaller than ever before. However, even Nakajima expresses concern, saying, "If you can't create something strong, you won't survive."


"Art continues to be incredibly popular in Japan, to the point where it's sometimes called a 'bubble,' and I've come to realize once again how well clothing and art complement each other. I was particularly impressed by the works of Kazuo and Fujiko Shiraga, and I'd be delighted if more people could get to know them through this opportunity. However, Kazuo's works are actually quite mainstream in the art world; they're traded for hundreds of millions of yen."

I often buy museum T-shirts, so I think both the simplicity of those photo T-shirts and the coolness of fashion are necessary. As you can probably tell from this explanation, users also place importance on whether something is simply cool or not. Especially overseas, there is a lot of overlap between people who buy art and people who buy clothes. In that sense, I want to go abroad more and more. Because of COVID-19, I've only been able to hold one exhibition in Paris so far.

Almostblack, whose new collection will be available at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store, shared their honest thoughts with us.

"We feel a strong sense of gratitude to ISETAN MEN'S , including our customers, for helping us grow. We're just so thankful (laughs). The buyers gave us a lot of criticism, but behind it all was their love for clothes and their love for us. There's no one else who would tell us difficult things so frankly, so we were very grateful."

ISETAN MEN'S is a store with some of the most discerning customers in the world. Amidst a wide array of amazing clothing from around the globe, we strive to create garments that stand out. We have no choice but to continue doing so and keep working hard."

The Almostblack Fall/Winter 2021 collection, a collaboration with the Shiraga couple, is catchy and photogenic, and will undoubtedly shine brightly in the online store. However, the meticulous attention to detail and the intricate, delicate techniques employed in its expression are something you'll really want to experience firsthand.





View ALMOSTBLACK products at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.
Text: Junya Hasegawa (america)
Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa

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