The key to a successful business suit is "the correct silhouette and well-balanced design." When walking down the street, if you observe how other businessmen are wearing their suits, you'll notice that surprisingly many people aren't wearing them well—their jacket collars are sagging and the neckline is loose, the sleeves and jacket length are wrong, or their trousers are baggy. As the saying goes, "Learn from others' mistakes," so try on your own business suit and check the size in front of a mirror.

In this article, Iwami, a category specialist at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building will explain the key points of suit fitting from the perspective of "vertical and horizontal measurements," highlighting the pros and cons.

Are your suits fitting you properly and giving you a good look?

The way we wear suits is being re-evaluated these days. With the diversification of work styles, it's all the more important to look sharp in a suit when it's appropriate for the occasion. The most important thing when it comes to wearing a suit properly is not the coordination, but whether the size fits your body correctly. No matter how famous the brand of suit or how expensive it is, if the silhouette doesn't suit your body type, it will be a disappointment. It's a real shame to give a sloppy impression just because the size doesn't fit, even if the design and coordination are perfect.

This time, we'll explain the basics of how to check your suit size yourself, so be sure to keep these points in mind to check if the size of your current suit fits your body shape, and use this as a reference when choosing a size when purchasing a new suit.

Part 1: What are the "vertical" and "horizontal" dimensions of a jacket?

The key points for fitting a jacket are the "vertical measurements" of length and sleeve length, and the "horizontal measurements" of shoulder width, chest circumference, and waist circumference.

Length (vertical measurement)

When viewed from the front, the length should reach from the tip of your thumb to the base of your thumb. When viewed from the back, it should just cover your hips.

Sleeve length (vertical measurement)

When you lower your arms and look at it from the front, having about 1-1.5 cm of the shirt peeking out from the sleeves creates a well-balanced look.

Shoulder width (horizontal measurement)

Check that the jacket sits properly on your shoulders and that the collar isn't slipping. Shoulder seams that are tucked inward or dropped outward are unacceptable. Also, if the jacket is too large, the neckline will gap and look sloppy.

Chest circumference (width)

The collar (lapels) should be clinging to the chest and not floating.

Waist circumference (width)

This jacket has a three-button design with a rolled lapel. First, when you fasten the middle button, check for any "pull creases" that appear on either side of the fastened button. If there are creases that look like the jacket is being pulled taut, it's too tight; if there are no creases at all, it's too loose. When the jacket buttons are fastened, there should be enough room between the jacket and the shirt to fit a fist, which will create a nice silhouette overall.

When fitting a suit, the most important point is the "waist area," which affects both the jacket and the trousers. When a customer requests our assistance, the first thing we ask is their waist size, and when we meet, we also check their waist area to recommend the suit with the best fit.

Part 2. What are the "length" and "width" dimensions of slacks?

The key points for fitting trousers are the "vertical measurements" of the inseam and double cuff width, and the "horizontal measurements" of the waist, hips, thigh width, and hem width.

Inseam (length)

While there are various types of suits, for a proper suit style, we recommend trousers with a one-cushion or half-cushion length.

Double width "vertical dimension"

For a formal look, opt for single cuffs, but for business attire or occasions where you frequently go out, choose double cuffs. The standard cuff width is 4-4.5 cm. Shorter individuals should choose a narrower cuff, while taller or larger individuals should choose a wider cuff to create a more flattering silhouette.

Waist and hip "horizontal measurement"

When buying suit trousers or pants for a set, you should first try on the same size as the jacket, but the key is the hip fit. While the waist can be altered to some extent, the hips are difficult to alter, so the best size is one that fits your hips nicely and without wrinkles.

Width across the bridge ("horizontal measurement")

The thigh width refers to the width of the trousers at the base of the leg (below the hips), and it represents the fit from below the hips to the thighs. If you choose trousers because you like slim-fitting pants, but your thighs are too tight, the silhouette won't look good. The same applies if you wear a size that's too loose.

When it comes to business suits, the balance between the jacket and trousers is crucial. If the sizes don't fit properly, it can give the impression of being sloppy and not knowing how to dress well, which is something any adult man should avoid. Also, choosing an oversized suit simply because you want to wear it comfortably is a big mistake, so when buying a suit, it's essential to always listen to the salesperson's advice and wear the correct size.

While business attire is becoming more casual, a classic suit with a tie is the standard, and for a more casual look paired with a polo shirt or T-shirt, an active suit made from functional materials like jersey fabric is a good option. At Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , we will guide you in choosing the right suit and size for your purpose.


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