2021.02.04 update

A men's department buyer explains! How to choose the right length for your slacks without making a mistake.

When buying pants, many people probably get advice from store staff about the inseam length during fitting, but how many people actually know their ideal inseam length? Recently, Mitsukoshi Isetan Online has also introduced a service that allows you to have pants hemmed to a specified length when purchasing them online, so knowing the perfect pant length in advance allows you to shop with confidence anytime, anywhere.


So, this time, we asked Mr. Yamaura, buyer for men's tailored clothing on the 5th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building to explain the basics of choosing the right inseam length and the key points to consider when making your selection.

  1. Here's something you should know again: Key points for choosing the right inseam length for slacks.
  2. Things you should know about inseams! There are three basic lengths.
    1. 1. One buffer
    2. 2. Half cushion
    3. 3. No cushioning
    4. 4. Hem shape you'd also like to know
  3. Now that you understand the key points about length, the next step is to find out your correct inseam length!
    1. 1. Procedure for measuring yourself
    2. 2. Points to note when getting measured during a fitting at the store


Here's something you should know again: Key points for choosing the right inseam length for slacks.


"Determining the right inseam length for slacks is actually quite a difficult problem. It involves a complex interplay of factors such as fitting, style, and coordination. When in doubt, consider how to create the most stylish silhouette for those slacks, and you'll likely find the optimal solution. We often hear customers say, 'Just the usual length!' in stores, but it varies greatly depending on the model and even the material, so we recommend trying them on, even if it's a hassle. We'll start by covering some basic knowledge, so please refer to this when purchasing pants online." (Yamaura)

Things you should know about inseams! There are three basic lengths.

Basically, there are three types of hem lengths: "one cushion," "half cushion," and "no cushion." Here, we'll explain the characteristics of each length and the key points for styling them together.

1. One buffer

Tangent Pants ¥28,600 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing

"One-cushion" refers to the length at which the hem of a suit jacket touches the top of the shoe, creating a single fold. This style conceals the socks and is suitable for a wide range of occasions, from business to formal. It's ideal for trousers with a generally relaxed silhouette. Trousers with a hem width of 20cm or more are recommended.

2. Half cushion

PT Torino Pants ¥40,700 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing

The most versatile and recommended length is "half-cushion." This length is suitable for a wide range of pants, from regular fit to slim silhouettes. The hem touches the tip of the shoe just enough to avoid bunching. Compared to a full cushion, it gives a neater impression and is a popular length. It is suitable for pants with a regular fit to slim silhouettes. The recommended hem width is 18-19.5cm.


3. No cushioning

PT Torino Pants ¥37,400 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing

This shorter length allows the trouser hems to avoid touching the shoes, revealing the socks. It creates a neater, more casual look than a half-cushion hem. On the other hand, it's not very suitable for more formal business settings or formal occasions. This length is best suited for slim-fitting trousers. The recommended hem width is 17-18.5cm.


4. Hem shape you'd also like to know


What are the key points to consider when choosing between a single and a double room?

While single cuffs are essential for formal wear such as morning suits and tuxedos, the hems of general suits and trousers are generally left to the wearer's discretion. Single cuffs are a good match for slim-fitting trousers or trousers that taper from the knee down, giving a neat and tidy impression. Double cuffs, on the other hand, give a slightly more casual impression. Double cuffs are a better match for trousers with a relaxed silhouette or for those who usually choose bulky shoes. The width of the cuff is generally said to be between 3.5cm and 4.0cm. If you are unsure, 4.0cm is recommended as it is versatile and can be worn with a variety of silhouettes and shoe types.

Now that you understand the key points about length, the next step is to find out your correct inseam length!

Once you understand the key points for hemming, the next step is to find out "the perfect length for you." Measuring your own pants, having a store employee measure them, or knowing the best length for your pants will give you peace of mind when shopping in stores or online. Here, we'll explain the points to measure for each.


1. Procedure for measuring yourself


[STEP1] Preparation


First, prepare a measuring tape and lay your pants flat on a clean, flat surface. A measuring tape that can measure about 100cm is generally sufficient. Make sure that both legs of the pants are parallel and overlapping.

[STEP 2] Confirmation

Next, roll up one leg of your pants up to the crotch seam. The crotch seam of your pants is the seam in the middle of the crotch.

[STEP 3] Measurement

Using that as a guide, measure straight and neatly along the seam down to the bottom hem of the pants.

[Other points] Hem width

Measuring the width of the hem will also help you determine the correct length for your pants. Measure parallel to the hemline. Recommended lengths for different hem widths are also listed in the explanation above, so please refer to them.


2. Points to note when getting measured during a fitting at the store

When having your pants hemmed to your ideal inseam length in a store, there are actually some points to pay attention to during the fitting. The most important is to have the inseam measured while wearing the pants and adjusting them to the correct waist position. If this isn't done correctly, even if the inseam was measured properly, you might find that the finished pants feel "a little too short? Or too long?" when you actually try them on.
The correct waist position is, first and foremost, the position where you normally wear pants. If you haven't paid much attention to it before and are unsure of the correct waist position, the general rule is to align it with your hip bones, so make sure to secure it firmly and fit it in the correct posture.


[This episode's commentator]
Yuki Yamaura is a buyer for men's tailored clothing on the 5th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . He joined the Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building in 2006 and has long overseen the massive clothing department at ISETAN MEN'S . He continues to buy items that can only be purchased here, including bespoke suits, trend selections, and artisan pieces.


Photo: Tatsuya Ozawa

*All prices include tax.

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Tailored Clothing, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
For inquiries via email, please click here.