2021.01.27 update

A must-see for those in their 30s and 50s! A buyer explains how to style the latest leather jackets.

Leather jackets have been gaining popularity for several years now. This trend seems likely to continue this spring, with a wide variety of spring leather jackets being released. Moreover, this leather boom seems to have some unique characteristics compared to previous ones. So, we asked Yamaura, the buyer for men's tailored clothing on the 5th floor of the Men Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building for tips on how to style the latest leather jackets for different age groups.

Popular dress-up leather is thin and comes in natural colors that suit all ages.


"With office casual attire and remote work being encouraged, and suits becoming less appealing, leather jackets are gaining popularity. It's not the heavy leather of the past, but lighter, easy-to-wear styles. Short-length blouson-type jackets, such as single rider jackets, are popular, and Italian brands like EMMETI and Cinquanta are particularly well-received."
Emmeti jacket (top) ¥132,000 View product
Left Cinquanta Jacket ¥129,800 View Product
Right Cinquanta Jacket ¥151,800 View Product
□Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

The brands EMMETI and Cinquanta, mentioned by buyer Yamaura, are both brands from Tuscany, Italy, a region known for producing high-quality leather. These are factory brands that are produced by specialized leather factories that have honed their skills as factories for luxury fashion houses, allowing them to offer high-quality leather comparable to that of high-end brands at affordable prices.

"It's not made of heavy, thick calfskin like the old-fashioned rider jackets. It's mainly made of soft leather such as lambskin and goatskin. When you try it on, it feels very light. It doesn't take years of wear to break it in; it fits your body right from the start, and of course, it will become more comfortable the more you wear it, making you want to cherish it for a long time." (Yamaura)

While it may look like a biker jacket at first glance, the way people style leather nowadays is completely different from the old image. Instead of going for a "slightly rebellious" look with a T-shirt, jeans, and sunglasses, a sophisticated casual look with a high-quality knit and slacks suits the modern man better. Yamamura analyzes that the mainstream style is one where people wear leather freely, almost as if it were a tailored jacket. Therefore, what is significantly different from traditional leather is that the same leather is now popular with a wide range of age groups.


"Previously, different styles were desired for leather gear aimed at younger people and leather gear aimed at middle-aged and older individuals. However, perhaps because the perception of leather has changed, the same leather gear is now being purchased by everyone from young businessmen in their 30s to executives in their 50s. Of course, there seem to be some differences in coordination, but I think this trend stems from a new appreciation for leather." (Yamaura)

Flight jackets like the A-2 and B-3, and rider jackets adorned with zippers and studs—once aspirational items that were symbols of masculinity—have become smart tops that anyone can wear. The new trend in leather jackets is that they have undergone a major transformation from "men's gear" to "fashion items." So, let's continue with an introduction to popular leather items and have buyer Yamaura explain the key points of coordinating a single leather jacket in different eras.


Buyer Yamaura explains! New leather items to incorporate this spring & recommended outfits for each generation.


Leather outfit 1.
The "JURI" by EMMETI was the catalyst for the popularity of Italian leather.


Emmeti Jacket ¥132,000 View Product
□Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

EMMETI is a brand that can be said to have ignited the current leather boom. Among their products, this "JURI" model is a prime example. It has a single rider's jacket style with a stand-up collar, but the cuffs have snap buttons instead of zippers, giving it a light and easy-to-wear blouson-like design. The goat leather is lightweight, yet the slight nap gives it an elegant touch. The light beige color of the suede is a trendy color this season, and the metal parts are gold to match, giving it a premium feel.

[Young Fashion]

Emmeti Jacket ¥132,000 View Product
Settefili Cashmere Cardigan ¥49,500
Settefili Cashmere Skipper Polo Shirt: ¥36,300
Ambrosi Pants ¥121,000 View Product
□Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

This clean and simple leather jacket would be perfect for office casual wear. So, I tried layering it over a knit ensemble, which is popular for remote work. This suede blouson is more casual yet sophisticated than a tailored jacket, and I think it would work well in the office as is.

I paired it with seersucker pants. The combination of leather and seersucker might seem unusual, but I think you can see just how lightweight the leather is, as it goes well with pants this light.


As a side note, the knit ensemble is a special order model for ISETAN MEN'S . The knit and cardigan are available in a range of basic colors. The lineup includes a slightly retro skipper polo shirt and cardigan, all in the same color.

[Adult Coordination]

Emmeti Jacket ¥132,000 View Product
Giannetto shirt: 27,500 yen
Seven-fold neckerchief: 9,900 yen; Tangent trousers: 33,000 yen
□Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

Even with the same leather, those in their middle age and above often wear it as casual weekend wear. The key is the color scheme. The beige and white combination creates an elegant image that suits adults. Cotton broadcloth and linen shirts also go well with this modern leather jacket.

Wide-leg pants are a must-have item this season. Based on British military Gurkha pants, these trousers feature a classic tailoring, and even with their wide fit, the creases give them a refined look. Wearing them beltless is recommended for a classic look, but I would recommend elegant leather shoes rather than sneakers for your footwear.


The item tied around the neck is a band-shaped neckerchief called a charpina. When a scarf feels a bit too bulky, simply wrapping it around the neckerchief once creates a stylish look.


Leather outfit 2.
Cinquanta's collared leather jacket makes good use of masculinity.



Cinquanta Jacket ¥129,800 View Product
□Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

Cinquanta is a brand from a factory that has previously produced leather goods for high-end fashion houses. They have established routes to supply high-quality leather, so the quality of their materials is undeniable. This particular blouson is made of goat suede, but it incorporates rugged rider-style details such as zippers on the pockets and cuffs, and a side belt at the waist, adding a touch of masculinity. The overall slim and compact fit creates a modern silhouette.

[Young Fashion]

Cinquanta Jacket ¥129,800 View Product
Settefili cashmere knit: ¥42,900; Tangent trousers: ¥28,600
□Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

The suede texture and beige color give it a slightly rugged feel, so I paired it with a red skipper knit sweater underneath and khaki military pants for the bottoms. By creating a slightly stronger look, I think I was able to highlight the masculine feel of the suede leather.

Brown beige pairs well with red and khaki. This color combination is useful to remember when expressing the masculine feel of workwear and military styles. By matching the tones or intensity of the colors, you can create a harmonious and harmonious combination.


While younger generations might associate leather and military pants with street style, this season's ISETAN MEN'S collection focuses on sophistication and playfulness, suggesting ways to wear masculine items with class. Wearing a collared knit sweater underneath would be ideal for creating a refined look.

[Adult Coordination]

Cinquanta Jacket ¥129,800 View Product
Seven-fold neckerchief: 9,900 yen
Giannetto shirt: 27,500 yen
Ambrosi Pants ¥121,000 View Product
□Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

The basic color scheme for wearing brown and beige is a gradient. Therefore, I've suggested a color combination that's easy for middle-aged people to wear, by pairing a blouson with a linen shirt in a similar color. I think the casualness of the brown and the elegance of the material are a good match.


These trousers are the classic gray slacks everyone owns, but the silhouette is a relaxed, tapered fit with a classic feel. The mohair blend gives them a slight sheen, adding a touch of sophisticated elegance.

For footwear, I've chosen suede slip-ons to balance the top. Try wearing them barefoot, like an Italian, when spring arrives. Here, as before, I've tied a charpina inside. It's lighter than a scarf and makes a perfect accent for spring.


Leather outfit #3.
A simple and modern look with Cinquanta's leather rider jacket.

Cinquanta Jacket ¥151,800 View Product
□Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

With its minimalist design, it doesn't look like a biker jacket, but rather a modern, streetwear look. Made from thin, lightweight lamb nappa leather, it can be easily thrown on, and the nuanced color, a blend of gray and beige, is an elegant shade also known as greige. It can be worn in a masculine, biker-style way, or as a light jacket, making it a versatile leather piece suitable for all occasions.

[Young Fashion]

Cinquanta Jacket ¥151,800 View Product
Settefili Cashmere Knit ¥30,800 Tramarossa by Alessandro Squarzi Denim Pants ¥42,900 *Scheduled to be on sale in early April □Isetan Shinjuku Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

Younger people could simply pair it with denim. In this case, dark indigo blue denim is preferable, and for the inner layer, a fine-gauge crewneck knit would be better than a T-shirt or cut-and-sew top. For footwear, elegant tassel loafers would be a good choice.

Because of its simple styling, the quality of the leather is crucial. Smooth lamb nappa leather is soft and conforms to the body, so there's no need to break it in; it's comfortable to wear from day one, which is another attractive feature.


The Tramarossa denim paired here is a collaboration model with Alessandro Squarzi, a fashion director famous for his Italian fashion street style photos, and uses Japanese-made denim. It features a straight silhouette inspired by Levi's 501s and is an ISETAN MEN'S exclusive.

[Adult Coordination]

Cinquanta Jacket ¥151,800 View Product
Sevenfold tie: 30,800 yen
Vanacore shirt ¥29,700
Marco Cerrato Pants ¥176,000 View Product
□Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

For example, simply switching your suit jacket to leather can create a sophisticated yet playful new office casual look. Modern biker jackets are different from the heavy calfskin ones that middle-aged men wore in their youth; they can be worn more casually. For instance, they look great worn over a shirt and tie business attire as a substitute for a tailored jacket.


The striped shirt has a regular collar, and the tie also features the same light blue color, but the addition of gray as the third color connects the leather and the dress shirt. The gray slacks have box pleats and a relaxed fit around the hips, creating a beautiful tapered silhouette.

If this kind of styling, which could be called office leather within the category of dressy leather, becomes recognized as a new business style for the future, then I think men's fashion still has a lot of potential and will become even more interesting.

[This episode's commentator]
Yuki Yamaura ● Buyer in charge of men's tailored clothing on the 5th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . He is able to stock many items that "can only be bought at ISETAN MEN'S no matter where you look in the world" because of his extensive experience in overseas purchasing and the high level of trust he has earned from factories and tailors, especially in Italy. He oversees the entire 5th floor and ensures that the product lineup is consistent with the season's theme.

Tailored Clothing Instagram is here



Photo: SUZUKI SHIMPEI
Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda

*All prices include tax.

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Tailored Clothing, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
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