In the spring of 2021, a new brand called CFCL was born. The person in charge of creating its concept, establishing and managing the organization, and handling everything from design to pattern making is Yusuke Takahashi, who has demonstrated his exceptional skills as a designer for ISSEY MIYAKE MEN for about six years.

The brand's first collection, consisting solely of knitwear, has immediately garnered rave reviews from buyers and the media, creating a buzz. We spoke with Takahashi, the key figure behind the brand, about its origins and his thoughts on "craftsmanship" in this new era.

We want to express the kind of clothing we aim to create as a team through our brand name.

Issey Miyake Men, which helped establish high fashion and fashion as a culture in Japan, sadly put an end to its long history with the Fall/Winter 2020-21 season.

Then, in the spring of 2021, Yusuke Takahashi, who had served as the designer for Issey Miyake Men for about six years starting in 2013, decided to go independent to pursue his ideal relationship between fashion and society, and launched his new brand, CFCL .

What kind of brand is CFCL ? Takahashi himself spoke about what led him to establish the brand independently, and the ideals and approach to fashion that CFCL embodies.

"I worked at Miyake Design Studio for 10 years and served as a designer for Issey Miyake Men for 6 years. The experience I gained on the highest stage, Paris Fashion Week, which I had admired since I was young, was invaluable."

However, the feeling of having to propose something new every season, or more specifically, the discomfort with the idea of a "theme for the show," was growing day by day. I came to feel that a show should be about presenting something because you have something you want to present.

I've always admired and resonated with Issei-san's philosophy and design principles, which always view fashion as a culture. However, I've also established my own style, and my desire to do things my own way has grown stronger. Since I've always thought about having my own brand someday if I'm going to be involved in fashion, I decided to take the plunge and go independent. The arrival of a new family member and the growing desire to contribute to society were also major factors."


Takahashi has successfully launched his own brand, but he did not adopt the format of a signature brand that prominently displays the designer name Yusuke Takahashi. When asked, he explained that the brand name CFCL stands for "Clothing For Contemporary Life"—in other words, the initials of the phrase "clothing for contemporary life."

"Designers name their brands after themselves because they create clothes that reflect their style and aesthetic sense. I don't want to create clothes to express my own aesthetic sense; I want to create clothes for the benefit of society."

I love architecture, and I've always been drawn to the names of firms like OMA, the office of the renowned architect Rem Koolhaas, and MoMA in New York. Those have a stronger "corporate feel," and are easier to recognize as logos and brands. I've always thought it wasn't good for the designer to be too prominent.


Because a designer can't make clothes alone. You need assistants, pattern makers, suppliers, factories, and so on to make clothing production possible, right? I wanted to emphasize that a brand isn't the designer's personal property, and I wanted to clarify what kind of brand it is and what it's for. That's why I thought we should use our slogan as the brand name instead of my own name. Plus, the "C" in "Clothing" can be interpreted in various ways, like creation, consulting, cafe, etc. It seems like we could do all sorts of things in the future. (laughs)

Sharp, sophisticated knitwear

So, what exactly does CFCL mean by "clothing for modern life"?


"Our collection includes basic items like shirts and pants that are gender-neutral, as well as skirts and dresses that flatter women. Everything is made from knitwear. By combining the comfort unique to knitwear with sophisticated and elegant designs, we've created a range of pieces suitable for various occasions, from relaxing at home to business meetings."

The color palette, primarily consisting of simple solid colors, is also designed with long-term wear in mind. Furthermore, it reflects the idea that clothing should not hinder the individual brilliance of those who choose CFCL , rather than simply belonging to an organization or brand.



"Our focus on the product is an antithesis to the existing manufacturing process where designers showcase their 'style.' Style has a major problem: it's easily imitated. Being a product brand, not a style brand, is CFCL 's identity and business strategy."

Certainly, if you create an original product with overwhelming quality, there's less worry about it being copied. That's why they chose to specialize in knitwear. However, there are many brands that specialize in knitwear. But Takahashi was confident he could establish a truly unique originality in the world of knitwear.

"Generally, knitwear has a cozy image associated with handcrafted items and relaxation. Even at Bunka Fashion Graduate University, where I studied art after university, fashion-oriented students weren't very interested in knitwear, and I got the impression that most of the student works involving knitwear had a cozy design."

Furthermore, there are actually only a handful of brands that offer knitwear that can be worn in categories like fashion and dresses. Sharp, sophisticated knitwear that can be worn to meetings and dinners is something very new in the world. I thought there was an opportunity here, both creatively and commercially."


CFCL offers knitwear that fits into every aspect of today's diverse lifestyle. The mock neck, which conceals the neckline at just the right height, creates an elegant look. The permanent crease lines on the sleeves maintain a sharp, structured impression, and other details that combine design and practicality are also highly compelling.

And at the heart of this craftsmanship is the computer knitting technology known as whole garment, which Takahashi had been interested in since his student days and which also contributed to him winning the Soen Award.

Making the future of clothing, centered around whole garment technology.

Whole Garment is a technology that allows knitwear to be produced in a nearly finished state simply by setting the yarn and design program in a computer-controlled knitting machine. Because it does not require any sewing processes such as joining the body and sleeves, it offers a high degree of design freedom and dramatically reduces time, effort, and cost. Furthermore, it is a revolutionary technology that eliminates cut waste.

Takahashi had been interested in this technology since his student days and felt it had great potential.

"I was studying textiles and art at a four-year university, and I started attending Bunka Fashion College's open college in my fourth year, so I had hardly acquired any fashion skills like sewing or pattern making. At Bunka, sewing quality was also a factor in evaluation, so I often got scolded. I was labeled as a 'student who can't sew' (laughs)."

It was during a lecture that I learned about computer knitting. The machines exist, but fashion enthusiasts don't knit, and nobody uses them. Plus, since the product is made without sewing, the professor can't evaluate the sewing quality (laughs). I thought that was incredibly interesting and would lead to overwhelming originality."

The winning piece that led Takahashi to join Miyake Design Studio, which also won the Soen Award, was based on the idea of combining computer knitting with fishing line. "I had been nurturing this idea for a long time, thinking that I would use this technology as my weapon when I one day launched my own brand," says Takahashi. While it might seem that he was behind the other students at the start, in reality, he was far ahead of them. After more than 10 years, that hidden idea has culminated beautifully in the brand CFCL .


"Whole garment knitting has no seams, so it's lightweight and comfortable to wear. Plus, because it's just a simple process of knitting yarn, it shortens knitting time and reduces costs. It's a production method that allows you to easily showcase your originality and also generate profits."

Unless you add processing like printing or embroidery, there are no transportation costs between factories, nor are there any carbon dioxide emissions. When you actually wear the garment, it's wrinkle-resistant and easy to care for, even machine-washable. CFCL 's designs start from this kind of "background."

The advantages of the whole garment production process, such as eliminating cutting waste and minimizing movement, perfectly align with Mr. Takahashi's desire to create clothing for society and contribute to it.


"If we were to produce in a foreign country and transport it all the way to Japan, it would take time and money to transport, and it wouldn't be eco-friendly because it would consume fuel. But with whole garment technology, as long as you have the machine, yarn, and program, anyone can operate it and produce the exact same product. In other words, there's no need to produce in a foreign country where labor costs are cheap. We also need to face our responsibility as producers to boost the local economy, so CFCL is completely made in Japan."

A sustainable society includes not only the natural environment but also the working environment. I see the future of manufacturing in whole garment technology.


CFCL uses recycled polyester in all of its products. Although there are few options and many constraints regarding recycled materials, Takahashi remains positive, saying, "These limitations have actually made it easier to design."

"We live in an era where stylish clothes aren't necessarily good clothes. Even if they look the same, the story behind them is crucial. It's not just about designing; total creation is essential, including company management, building relationships with suppliers and employees, and logistics. And that's something you can't do while belonging to an organization."

Whether it's Greta Thunberg or Black Lives Matter, it's now possible for individuals to change the world. You can start small and make a big difference. That's why I think being independent is actually our strength.

To coincide with this promotion, Isetan Shinjuku will be releasing exclusive colors of the "GARTER HALF SLEEVE T" and "GARTER LONG SLEEVE T".