N.HOOLYWOOD 's latest collection, marking its 20th anniversary, is a quiet and refined collection with a streamlined product line. The full details will be revealed at a promotion held at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6th floor, Men's Contemporary, from January 20th (Wed) to February 2nd (Tue).

Faced with a world drastically changed by the coronavirus, we asked designer Daisuke Obana about his current thoughts and the ideas behind his Spring/Summer 2021 collection.

I felt that in an environment where shows couldn't be held, there was no alternative creative solution.

N.HOOLYWOOD , which started in 2001 with a mix of remade vintage clothing and ready-to-wear, is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. However, perhaps due to the impact of the pandemic, its latest collection, Spring/Summer 2021, suspends the line that was previously called the collection line.

The brand focused solely on N.HOOLYWOOD TEST PRODUCT EXCHANGE SERVICE (hereinafter referred to as "Exchange"), a wardrobe collection with military-inspired elements, and N.HOOLYWOOD COMPILE (hereinafter referred to as "Compile"), a dress line that reflects contemporary trends. Both lines were presented not through shows, but through videos and lookbook images.

We asked designer Daisuke Obana about the true intentions behind this bold measure.


"To be honest, even when we held our Fall/Winter 2020 collection last February, I was thinking of abandoning the show format altogether. I had started wondering, 'What exactly is a collection anyway?'"

Despite the high calorie content of shows, I began to question who they were really for. I was losing sight of the meaning in the self-satisfaction of simply pursuing and presenting creations based on themes I felt were relevant, all for the sake of showing them to someone.

So I thought, "I want to do what I love, and I want to create clothes that can be worn every day. Compile has a theme and a framework of dress wear, but it's composed of details that we ourselves truly want to wear right now. For the Fall/Winter 2020 collection, we explored whether we could create a show with just Compile, and whether we could make it work without putting in any unnecessary effort just because it's a show. As a result, we created what I personally consider to be the most beautiful show I've ever made."

The serene and majestic runway show, which began with a live cello performance by Daiki Tsuneta of King Gnu and millennium parade, was the biggest experiment yet for Mr. Obana, who said he "stopped being picky about things about two years ago."


"I wasn't very good at collaborating with other people, but when I actually tried collaborating with Daiki, I think we created the most memorable and best show I've ever done. It was like a fishbone that had been stuck in the back of my throat suddenly came out. I realized, 'Oh, I can do anything!' (laughs)."

Immediately after that, the coronavirus pandemic hit. It was a huge advantage that we were able to gain this "realization" just before the pandemic. There's no doubt that it allowed us to honestly approach clothing production under these circumstances.

In other words, the reason this season's "collection" was presented solely through video and images is not because runway shows "couldn't be held" due to COVID-19, but rather because they deliberately "didn't" hold them.

A return to my roots, the military, and a culmination of my work.

Based on military wear, a staple of vintage clothing, N. Hollywood's collection line has evolved and deepened with each passing season, "deep diving" into core themes with Daisuke Obana's overwhelming knowledge and passion, and elevating them into a range of modern and wearable items.

However, after a recent, lighthearted shift in the creative process—a deliberate avoidance of "deep dive"—this season the brand as a whole meticulously re-examined the interpretation of each line. The conclusion they reached was to suspend the collection line for Spring/Summer 2021 and instead present their collections primarily through video streaming on The Exchange.

While it takes the form of wartime documentary footage, it completely lacks any fashion statement, narrative, or flashy presentation. It's simply a slideshow-like presentation, alternating between collages of diverse materials from different locations and eras, and images of wearable looks featuring models reminiscent of G.I. Joe.


"There's no special intention behind this, like it's not a fashion show or it's happening now. If I had to say something, it's that I couldn't take the inspirational trips I usually do. That's why I had plenty of time to work on it. And because of that, I was able to thoroughly review the vast amount of material I had accumulated, and that's how I arrived at this minimalist expression."

I made a conscious effort to carefully select and edit vintage clothing that had been lying dormant in my atelier, almost as if I were speaking to each piece individually. It felt like I was deepening my understanding of what I'm originally good at: really engaging with individual items. I also thought about the meaning of returning to my "roots" of military style at this 20th anniversary.

This work truly represents a return to his roots and a culmination of his work. Furthermore, there was a reason, according to Obana himself, that the work did not particularly emphasize the benefits that can be obtained by utilizing technology, such as the novelty of being digital or being presented in video format.

"We learned a great deal from the mistakes of various European brands (who had launched their collections earlier). It seemed like many brands were desperately trying to create 'substitutes' for their shows..."

A fashion show is like a musician's live performance. Even when watching the same show, different people see things from their own perspectives, or capture images from their own positions—they have different viewpoints than the official ones. That's what makes shows special.

If it's not a show where everyone in the venue can enjoy their own unique perspective, then his current conclusion is to choose look images that can be seen in the best possible way by people all over the world.


"I believe the ultimate goal of digitalization is to be able to express extremely complex things in an extremely simple way. The simpler the mechanism, the better. I don't like videos that rely too much on functionality; it's too much."

If it's ego regarding "facts," then they should actually sympathize.

Regarding this season's Exchange collection, Mr. Obana says, "For the first time in a while, we're focusing on individual pieces." He seriously engages with each item and detail, mashing up eras and countries. While it may seem unrelated, the way he creates a cohesive collection through connections in fabric texture and overall look is truly impressive.

However, from the vast and profound world of military wear, what items did Mr. Obana select for this season's Exchange collection? Mr. Obana himself introduced some of the key items.


"The pinkish-khaki camouflage pattern on this coat is probably from the British Special Forces in the 1940s. Unlike the US military, there are many records of European armies that are somewhat unreliable, so I say 'probably' (laughs). Lately, I've been deliberately trying not to 'dig too deep.' If I get too involved, sometimes the finished product is something I wouldn't want to wear even a millimeter of."

This pink camouflage is extremely rare and doesn't exist in the US military, but rather than focusing on that kind of "knowledge," we wanted to delve deeper into the "feeling" aspect, the simple fact that "the color is beautiful." Up until now, we've pursued "faithfulness" to vintage clothing, but we're a designer brand. Originality is essential. Using this textile as a base, we've also created a plain pinkish khaki and tried matching the colors. This adds breadth and depth to the collection, and makes it easier to coordinate outfits."

In addition, the collection includes a wide range of military items, such as cut-and-sew tops accented with vivid colored patches that are color-coded by size, inspired by U.S. military surplus, and training wear with the original logo, created as an homage to the U.S. Space Force which was established at the end of 2019. These items combine sophisticated design with functionality, resulting in a truly comprehensive collection.


"At its core, it's my desire to introduce military wear that has never seen the light of day to the world. Up until now, I've bought a lot of 'strong' items that make you think, 'How do you even wear this?' (laughs). I've made things with interesting details like that in the past, but this season, it's about 70% brute force. It might contradict what I said earlier, but my 'ego' is really coming through."

But the ego we've had until now has been more like the mood or feelings in my own brain. This season's ego, on things that exist as "facts," may be hard to understand or difficult to wear, but I think it's more likely to resonate with people as a hobby.

"Even if it's niche and doesn't sell, I just made it anyway. Exchange is a line where I can express my more nerdy and geeky side than my collection line. My geeky side is definitely vintage clothing and military wear."

Functional, wearable, and fashionable. These simple yet ultimate characteristics are the very essence of N. Hollywood, a brand that transcends time and lines.


Finally, when asked about the Fall/Winter 2021 collection, Mr. Obana simply smiled and said, "You'll have to wait and see."



Text: Junya Hasegawa (america)
Photograph: TAGAWA YUTARO (CEKAI)

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