Oversized, relaxed and on-trend, yet possessing a unique sense of tension. 〈stein/Stein〉 is a brand launched by designer Kiichiro Asakawa in the Fall/Winter 2016-17 season. It has already gained immense popularity among fashion connoisseurs and is now being carried by high-end international select shops. From the Spring/Summer 2021 season, the brand will have its own rack on the 6th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building in the Men's Contemporary section.

In this interview, Mr. Asakawa shared his philosophy on clothing design and discussed various aspects of his upcoming collection.

View Stein products at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.

I seek clothes that make the wearer stand out.

—First, could you tell us about the concept when you launched the business? I understand it started with your own select shop, "carol."

When I started "carol," I lined up a bunch of vintage Levi's jeans and let customers try them on, then customized the silhouette and details. I've always loved vintage clothing, and I've always enjoyed deconstructing what are considered masterpieces to understand how they're made.

I would take them apart, look at fabric and thread sample books, and think about how to make them fit the image of the person who would wear them, from the overall look to the finer details like the stitching. It wouldn't be what you'd call design, but that's what I was doing.

—I heard that the Stein collection also started with pants.

I've just put in a lot of work, so I've accumulated quite a bit of knowledge about pants. That's why when I started Stein, I started with just three types of pants. I did that for two seasons, the spring/summer and autumn/winter of 2016. From there, I gradually started making shirts and sweatshirts, and then released outerwear in the following autumn/winter season. So it really was a gradual process.

—What thoughts did you put into the brand name?

It's a common name among people of German descent, for example, Einstein, Lichtenstein, Neuschwanstein, etc. The suffix "stein" is added to the name. It's the part of a family name like "○○○stein".
I love the feeling of being close to a name, something that is both ordinary and special, like a family name that has a long history in that family or region. My brand also embodies the wish that the clothes I create will become special to the person who wears them, and that the clothes will become a part of them.

—"carol" is also located in a back alley, not on the main street. I sense a similar philosophy there as well.

To put it into words, it's something quiet yet powerful. This applies to the clothes we create, the visual image, and even the way we run our store. We've carefully selected our sales channels to ensure that our customers can properly understand our worldview. Basically, we only carry Stein products at stores where the owners and buyers are trustworthy and where we believe our products will be handled with care. Also, we do not sell our products online. We want our customers to be able to see the products in person when they visit our store, so that we can convey the actual feel of the fabric, the silhouette, and the overall atmosphere.

—The experience of wearing clothes isn't just about "wearing" them. I think that buying clothes in a store should be re-evaluated, especially now that e-commerce has become so popular.

For customers, having a favorite store, familiar staff members, and the entire experience, including the purchase itself, is part of the "experience." Perhaps I feel this way even more strongly because I've worked in sales for so long. That's why I still try to be at the "carol" store as much as possible. I want to be able to convey what I want to communicate clearly, and that's something I want to do in terms of product creation as well; I want to deliver our products to customers with care.

Based on men's clothing, the masculine elements are stripped away.

—Are there any designers or other artists who have influenced you?

Originally, I was heavily influenced by the kind of clothing with a sense of atmosphere and background, like that of Martin Margiela in the 90s. Also, Celine during Phoebe Philo's time there. I've also been inspired by Helmut Newton's photographs.

—Indeed, the worldviews of the people whose names have been mentioned seem to be a blend of calmness, tension, and strength. How do you actually go about putting together a collection?


In the beginning, I would set a theme first and then start making clothes from there. But for the past year, I've adopted a style where I start working on something and then, as I go along, I give shape to what I'm feeling and what I want to express. The core parts of what I truly love haven't changed that much. It's more like a matrix of images, where I think, "This item goes on the left side, this item goes closer to the middle," based on my hobbies, interests, and simply the clothes I want to wear right now. It's a more introspective approach, I guess. The collection itself also takes shape gradually.

—Stein's clothing often features oversized items. What aspects do you prioritize when designing them?

I have absolutely no intention of creating oversized clothing simply because it's trendy. As I mentioned earlier, it's more of a result of pursuing clothing that possesses a sense of atmosphere, such as stillness or strength. Also, even though it's oversized, I pay particular attention to pattern making. The same goes for the silhouette; I aim to create clothing that exudes power, such as the beauty of how it drapes vertically when worn, and the shadows created by the fabric's drape. Something that is relaxed yet has a strong sense of tension. Of course, I think everyone has their own preferred size.

—You always use both male and female models in your brand visuals. What is the intention behind this?

We entrust the pattern making to someone with a background in menswear. Basically, we base our production on menswear, but then we strip away the masculine elements to create a gender-neutral design. The same applies to age. Therefore, we feature models of various genders and ages.

—The visual styling is also very impressive.

Actually, sometimes I work backward from the image of a look that comes to mind and then create the items. I imagine the space, a model wearing the items, and then I bring the silhouette, details, and styling to life exactly as I imagined. I imagine things like, "If I shoot from this angle, this detail will stand out..." or "If I layer that coat on top of this coat, a new look will be created..." and that's how the silhouette and details come together. The same goes for overlapping slight differences in material texture. And when I actually go to the shoot and capture a look that exceeds my expectations, I'm truly happy.

—What kind of collection will you have for the upcoming spring/summer season?

I've expressed the upcoming spring/summer collection with the word "RE:PART." While I'll continue to hold onto the parts I love and the parts I want to express, I'll repeat things, go full circle and come back again. Even if I'm making the same thing, as time passes and I go through it several times, it becomes something different from before. It's like how a movie I saw five years ago looks different when I watch it again now. I cherish that feeling.

--This will be the first time we're properly introducing your products at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building .

I've been a frequent visitor to Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building for a long time; it's a place where people who love clothes from all over the world gather. So, I was really happy when they approached me. I hope that customers who visit Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building will happen to notice something in our items, and that we'll be able to convey even a little bit of our worldview.

—Finally, could you tell us about your future plans?

I personally think that focusing on one thing and pursuing it to the fullest suits me best. I just like to do things steadily and diligently. If possible, I'd like to continue making clothes until I'm an old man. Quietly, strong clothes. I hope to continue making clothes slowly and for a long time, while searching for new ways of expression.

View Stein products at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.