Cornelian Taurus by Daisuke Iwanaga (hereinafter referred to as Cornelian Taurus) is a leather bag brand that exudes the pride of Made in Japan and unparalleled originality. Daisuke Iwanaga, who launched his own brand in 2007, leveraged his experience in planning for a major bag manufacturer and working as a shop staff member and buyer for an apparel company. As we explored his creative philosophy and commitment to his products, we began to see the secret to the brand's popularity, which is supported with a passion that rivals that of famous overseas brands.

From our hometown of Kobe, we create products that no one else can imitate, and share them with the world.

Daisuke Iwanaga, who worked in planning and sample production at a bag manufacturer and later as a shop staff member, buyer, and merchandiser at an apparel company, has cultivated a wide range of knowledge, experience, and customer awareness throughout his approximately seven-year career. Throughout that time, he has always held onto the vision of "unique craftsmanship," and he has been making custom-made bags, handling every step of the process himself, late at night after finishing his work as a company employee.

"If we're just going to create exactly what the user envisions, that's something a highly skilled craftsman should do. I thought that what someone with my career background should do is combine design and customization. I was still pretty bad at it back then, though (laughs)."

As a buyer, Mr. Iwanaga traveled the world and, the more he saw products from renowned brands, the more he felt the potential for craftsmanship that only Japanese people and only he could create. Then, at the age of 30, he made a firm decision to become independent.

What I considered in order to survive in this highly competitive world was to combine the unique individuality and sensibilities nurtured by the roots and formative experiences that only Iwanaga Daisuke possesses, with a highly concentrated creative process in which he handles everything from design to sample making by himself, and connect it to the essential aspects of creation that go beyond mere appearance.

"And also, it was about creating something original that no one else could imitate."

In 2007, Cornelian Taurus, a bag brand that Japan proudly presents to the world, was born. The reason it was based in Kobe is because it is Mr. Iwanaga's birthplace, and the landscape there had a great influence on his identity and aesthetic sense, as well as the presence of his father, a diver.

"Creating products with my family in the town where I was born was essential in pursuing our unique originality. Furthermore, Kobe is close to Himeji and Tatsuno, areas with a long tradition of leather production, and which still account for nearly 70% of Japan's domestic leather. While there are many bag brands in Japan, none were able to create products for the world from a location near a leather-producing region. We thought this could also become a unique characteristic of ours."

A natural and iconic "presence" that functions like a logo.

Daisuke Iwanaga himself draws the design sketches, creates the patterns, and even sews the samples before they are produced. We asked him why he insists on this consistent creative process.

"When I work alone, the 'concentration' of the image I have in my head before it materializes as a product is overwhelmingly higher. Sometimes, while sewing a sample, I'll think, 'Maybe this would be more interesting?' and make changes to the sewing method or the design itself. That's how I'm constantly increasing the 'concentration' of my creations."

Furthermore, a characteristic of my designs lies in the "subtle" curves inspired by nature. I'm strongly influenced by the natural landscapes I saw as a child, such as the sea and mountains. This is something that I simply can't convey to pattern makers through words alone..."

Cornelian Taurus products do not have a prominent logo. When asked why, Mr. Iwanaga replied as follows:

"A logo only makes sense when the brand has name recognition and value. We don't have that kind of name recognition yet, and having a logo doesn't look very good, does it? I wonder if there are any sculptures with a logo in a prominent place (laughs)."

For me, a bag is also a three-dimensional object, so I aim for it to have a presence that can serve as a logo. Even if it's just sitting on a shelf, if it has an aura about it, people will pick it up and it will make a difference. The way a bag slumps down when you put it on a table, or conversely, how it stands upright—those kinds of "movements," silhouettes, and shapes are things only I can create. I want people to feel it rather than just see it."

The logo is certainly inconspicuous. However, a design element that subtly symbolizes the brand can be seen on the bag's handle. It's a diamond-shaped "handle wrap" inspired by the hilt of a Japanese sword, embodying Japan and Japanese identity.

"We focused on the handle because, unlike clothing which has many points of contact with the skin, bags are almost entirely concentrated on the handle. We wanted to imbue this most important touchpoint with our Japanese icon, the soul of the brand, and the pride of the craftsman. Furthermore, we wanted to produce this part in-house in our own atelier, within our family, rather than outsourcing it. So we entrusted it to my father, a diver who introduced me to the charm of brass hardware."

There are three types of handles currently in use: one with a handle wrap on both sides, just like a sword handle; a completely original "single-sided handle wrap" that is an evolution of the "handle wrap"; and a "spiral wrap" that resembles the grip tape of a tennis racket, which is typical of Iwanaga, who was passionate about sports during his student days.

It is said that almost all of the production is handled by Mr. Iwanaga's own father. This is truly a creation that only Mr. Iwanaga could do, and it can be said to be a family business rooted in his identity.

"We think we're pretty handy, but my father is even more so. As men of the sea, we make and maintain almost everything ourselves, from fishing nets to fishing gear. You can't get by with mass-produced items in the ocean. My father loves making things, so he's happy to take on the job. I hope he continues this work even after he can no longer dive."

Sustainable leather products, given a new lease on life.

Cornelian Taurus will be releasing products in its Spring/Summer 2021 collection that, for the first time, reveal the origin of the raw hides used.

"We've been working on this for the past few years, and it's finally come to fruition... For the new season, we'll be releasing a series where the raw hides are produced in Hokkaido, tanned in Himeji, and processed and sewn in Tokyo. Hokkaido has low temperatures and is dry, so there are fewer insects, and as a result, it's easier to obtain hides with a clean surface. Because the surface is clean, it's easier to apply color, and we can use less oil than usual to bring out the good color development and lightness of the material. If there's too little oil, the leather loses its depth and resilience, so we're striking a delicate balance."

A new approach made possible by incorporating new materials. This added vibrant colors such as red and mustard to a color palette that had previously been dominated by dark colors.

"Knowing the exact origin of the materials allows for a more 'high-quality' creation. Since we engage in extremely meticulous and intense work from design to production, we wanted to understand the materials down to the smallest detail."

In Japan's industrial structure up until now, it was impossible to tell whether "domestically produced" leather came from Hokkaido or Kyushu. Even the tanners didn't know. But that's finally starting to change, thanks to the passage of time."

Although not widely known, leather is a by-product of meat production. This means that as long as we continue our meat-eating habits, raw hides will continue to be produced indefinitely. Leather, which makes efficient use of this valuable resource, is an extremely sustainable material.

"We hope that our activities will help many people understand that leather is a by-product of meat production and that animals are not killed specifically for their hides. However, if we focus too much on that aspect, we won't be able to create anything interesting, and people won't be able to view our products objectively."

When I first started my company, I did an internship for about a month at a tannery in Himeji City. My goal was to directly experience the know-how of leather making at the site where hides are transformed into leather. And someday, I would like to visit a slaughterhouse as well. I always want to be aware that we are making things by taking the lives of living creatures."

Where did you get that?

If you use a Cornelian Taurus bag, you'll undoubtedly get asked this question often. That's because, even though the brand name isn't immediately obvious, it exudes a vibrant and powerful aura whether you're carrying it or just leaving it out.

That bag truly possesses a life and a soul.