Reflecting on my Italian travels at the 17th milestone | A buyer's "personal" favorite stories - "Before I knew it, I'd been using them all this time" vol.2
Everyone has something they've loved and continued to use for a long time. That item holds a complex interplay of various emotions: their own feelings, the feelings of the person who gave it to them, and the feelings of the creator. Even the buyers at Mitsukoshi Isetan have their own deeply meaningful, personal favorites.
"My Personal Favorite Stories" - Part 2 features Tomohiro Watanabe, a buyer on the 4th and 5th floors Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building who is in his 17th year with the company and has experience traveling abroad as an alpine skier during his junior high school days. He talks about his favorite items.
Masterpieces that embody your own unique sense of style, cultivated in Italy.
"Since joining the company, I've rotated through various departments every two years, including suits, men's shoes, accessories, and dress shirts & ties. However, from 2013, I was stationed at the Milan office for six years. So, my longest tenure was in Italy. At the Milan office, we handled not only men's clothing but also food and interior goods, so I visited various manufacturers and factories throughout Italy. Through interacting with locals, I've developed a solid Italian sense of style, and I'm now able to accurately choose what suits me.""Italian businessmen are not just the frivolous types portrayed in the Japanese media; many are intelligent and dignified. They range from stylish fashion industry professionals to intellectually affluent individuals who wear suits to work."
Watanabe's sense of style, honed through his calm interactions with Italians, reflects his intelligent approach to selecting items that blend seamlessly with the local culture while maintaining his Japanese identity.
<RING JACKET> Suit
When I actually wore Ring Jacket to the factory in Naples and the showroom in Milan, I received many compliments from the locals. Japanese people tend to underestimate Japanese brands, but I want more people to know that there are globally recognized brands like Ring Jacket, and I want more people to wear them.
<LUIGI BORRELLI> Dress Shirt
Luigi Borrelli is the most popular shirtmaker (camiceria) at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . It's an excellent shirt brand that can propose trends, often featuring exclusive fabrics available only at Borrelli each season. The details, such as the high collar stand, are distinctly Neapolitan, and while many shirtmakers utilize a lot of handwork, Borrelli's shirts possess a unique charm and character that sets them apart.
Many Borrelli shirts have collar styles that look great with or without a tie, but the most popular is the semi-wide collar "Luciano." When I was stationed in Milan, there was a Borrelli showroom right in front of my office, and I became close with the owner, Fabio. I clearly remember Fabio saying, "The collar style is the most important thing about a shirt." In fact, this collar style is characterized by its perfectly balanced and exquisite collar opening, and apparently other manufacturers can't replicate it even if they copy the pattern.
<FRANCO BASSI> Necktie
Visiting overseas factories and looking at old archives is a valuable learning experience for me as a buyer. By seeing what kind of factories are in operation and who is making the products, I can gain a deeper understanding of the brand's philosophy and passion for craftsmanship. I always want to convey the passion of each brand that I learn there to my customers.
I also had the opportunity to visit the Franco Bassi factory in Como, Northern Italy. Looking at the tie fabric records from 40 years ago, I found many black-based tie fabrics, which are currently trending, and it was interesting to see how the fashion of that time is being revived today. This is a one-of-a-kind vintage piece selected from deadstock fabrics from that era. The unique ribbed weave and crisp texture of the fabric go very well with my favorite Neapolitan style of dressing.
<MUNGAI> Pocket Square
These days, many people wear suits without ties, but when I wear a suit, I try to always wear a tie and pocket square. When I wear a jacket, I always wear a pocket square even if I'm not wearing a tie. Mungai has a factory on the outskirts of Florence, where craftsmen hand-stitch the edges of each pocket square one by one.
By sewing by hand instead of using a sewing machine, the stitches are soft, and the edges of the handkerchief gently open up even when folded. This one has hand embroidery on the edge. Because it's handmade, each one has its own unique character, and you can feel the passion of the maker in it. Apparently, factories are now facing a shortage of skilled workers, but I hope this technique will not disappear.
〈EDWARD GREEN〉 Straight Tip
□Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, B1 Floor, Men's Shoes / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store *Photos are of the person's personal belongings
Edward Green's classic straight-tip shoes are a timeless classic that transcends trends. They're suitable for any occasion, from work to formal events, and they hold many fond memories of being worn all over the world. I bought them 10 years ago when I was still in charge of men's shoes, after hearing that "good shoes can last 10 years" and wanting to put that to the test.
I only did simple maintenance on them, but they definitely lasted over 10 years. Goodyear welted shoes are a bit stiff when you first buy them, so I kept them at the office and wore them for short periods every day. After about six months, the soles molded nicely to the shape of my feet. Once they were in shape, they felt like they were hugging my feet. That's when I learned that you have to "break in" your shoes.
I wear a lot of Italian clothing brands, but I often wear British shoes. Italian shoes have beautiful colors and leather, and their forms are often uniquely designed, but British shoes are neat, smart, and beautifully classic, giving off a serious impression. There's no place where you can't wear Edward Green shoes. I think they're a pair of shoes every man should own.
<COLUMBUS> Classic Shoe Trees
□Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, B1 Floor, Men's Shoes / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store *Photos are of the person's personal belongings
When I travel abroad for business, I always bring two or three pairs of leather shoes, and shoe trees are essential to prevent them from getting crushed in my suitcase. However, I try not to bring the shoe trees that come with the suitcase or the American cedar ones that have insect-repellent properties, as they are too heavy and could exceed the weight limit of my suitcase. So, for travel, I use the classic shoe trees from Columbus.
These shoe trees are made from poplar wood, so they're very lightweight and incredibly useful when I'm taking my shoes with me on business trips. I recommend them to my friends, colleagues, and clients. High-end shoes often come with shoe trees, but not all shoes are like that, so if you're going to buy them separately, I highly recommend these.
MONTBLANC ballpoint pen
Businesspeople overseas are very particular about their pens, and many cherish them as something they'll keep for a lifetime. If they pick up a cheap ballpoint pen when signing something or writing something, they'll immediately switch to their own. They also have a culture of sending thank-you letters, suggesting they place great importance on the meaning of writing by hand.
This Montblanc was a gift from my high school classmates when they threw a farewell party for me after I was assigned to Milan. I was touched that it had my initials engraved on it, but I was even more moved when I found out they bought it at Isetan Shinjuku.
Since then, I've made it a habit to keep a pen in my pocket while working. I was also deeply moved when I saw a real Montblanc pen while on vacation in Chamonix to go snowboarding during my time stationed in Milan. It's light and easy to hold, and the writing experience is superb. I do a lot of work using smartphones and computers, but when I'm taking notes or signing documents, I feel like I'm standing a little more upright.
Santa Maria Novella Eau de Cologne
□Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, 8th Floor, ISETAN Men's Residence
When you visit famous shops abroad, the ateliers of long-established tailors, or the lounges of historic hotels, you'll often find potpourri with a wonderful fragrance. It's clear that they place great importance on the relationship between space and scent. I also keep potpourri at home, and I find the natural scent very soothing.
I've always liked fragrances, but when I came across Santa Maria Novella's "Potpourri" scent, I knew this was it! It's refreshing and invigorating, so when I put it on before going to work, it seems to sharpen my mind. Since it's an eau de cologne, the scent doesn't last very long, but I can put it in an atomizer and carry it around with me. I also use it to refresh myself during work.
Related Article ► A Buyer's "Personal" Favorite Stories - "Before I Knew It, I'd Been Using Them Forever" Vol. 1: Tomoyasu Tabata's Shoe History
Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
*All prices include tax.
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