Amidst the unprecedented pandemic, the Spring/Summer 2021 Paris and Milan collections were presented on digital platforms for the first time in history. While everyone struggled with this new approach, one brand that received particularly high praise was WHITEMOUNTAINEERING, which has now established itself as one of Japan's leading brands. What led to the collaboration with Rhizomatiks' Daito Manabe, and what is the full picture of BLK, which has made a complete comeback after a full 10 years? Ahead of the opening of the much-anticipated pop-up store, we spoke with designer Yosuke Aizawa himself.

The importance of pattern making in three-dimensional clothing.

We have long struggled with the challenge of integrating fashion, a physical product, with digital technology. Unexpectedly, the emergence of the COVID-19 virus has brought about a remarkable innovation in digital fashion.

At the forefront of this movement is Yosuke Aizawa, designer of White Mountaineering, who is also known for his collaborations with European companies. At Paris Fashion Week, where all shows were streamed online, he teamed up with Daito Manabe of Rhizomatiks, a world leader in technology-driven entertainment. It is still fresh in our memory that they presented a digital fashion show style unlike anything ever seen before, and received high praise both domestically and internationally.

"Through my work in Europe with brands like Lardini, I actually felt a sense of urgency about holding a Spring/Summer 2021 collection show from a very early stage. Separately, having already presented 12 collections in Paris as White Mountaineering, I felt it was time to rethink the 'product creation for runway shows' approach from scratch. Both as a brand and as an individual, I felt we should be creating something more personal, something that I myself would want to wear."

I myself wear almost exclusively black clothes, and as I've gotten older, I've had more opportunities to wear jackets with lapels. That's why I decided to reconstruct BLK, the all-black line that was born as White Mountaineering's high-spec line, under a new concept called Black Layer Knowledge, and to present it by visualizing the pattern-making process, which cannot be conveyed in a regular runway show."

Even the collaboration with Daito Manabe, which often gets all the attention, wasn't necessarily "started with Rhizomatiks."

"We had a clear vision of wanting to express the pattern-making process—how a garment is created from a single piece of fabric—through animation, and we had solidified the ideas and storyboards quite a bit with our usual team at the company. The thrill of garment making lies in turning 2D into 3D. However, connecting fragmented ideas into a story proved surprisingly difficult, and there were technical hurdles that we simply couldn't overcome. That's why we decided to consult with Daido-kun, who is the same age as us and whom we have always respected."

He regularly wears White Mountaineering clothes, and I even designed the uniforms for Rhizomatiks, so we understand each other very well. There's no miscommunication, so to speak. That's why I was able to entrust the project to them, and no matter how talented someone other than Daido-kun might be, it wouldn't have been possible."

Alongside its appeal as a product, it possesses the significant "value" of contributing to society.

In the digital fashion show, parts cut from flat textiles were assembled into a new collection of three-dimensional clothing from White Mountaineering, including BLK, and the images of models wearing and walking in the garments were visualized. However, Aizawa says that the concept of the main line will not change. He will set a theme each season and "continue to explore my experience as a designer and my encounter with the outdoors."

In response, the new BLK stated, "We want to combine unique and innovative materials with our own creativity to create universal and technical wear that anyone can wear."


Unlike the previous BLK, which pursued professional-grade outdoor specifications and boosted performance to the point of destroying the brand's image, the new BLK is more like a spin-off label. What we focus on is clothing that can be worn daily, regardless of the season, summer or winter. Black clothes that you want to wear every day.

"With black clothes, you can easily get away with anything if you make them simply. And since I'm not the type of designer who creates 'sculptural objects,' I re-examined the process of how a single piece of fabric becomes a garment, and thoroughly pursued ease of movement and practicality through pattern making and sizing."

While still composed entirely of black as before, what kind of "black" is the rebooted "daily" BLK brand, with its new concept of "Black Layer Knowledge," focusing on?

"As someone who comes from the textile design department, deciding what kind of black to use is a fundamental aspect. It's important to have a concrete image of what kind of black you want to create."

I think there are two types of black: "reddish black" and "bluish black." "Bluish black" is what we call charcoal black. If you dilute it, it becomes more and more grayish. In contrast, "reddish black" is a highly concentrated black, a complex blend of red, yellow, and other colors. I want to express the interesting layering possibilities that come from combining these two types of black. I want people to enjoy layering black, which can have completely different expressions depending on the dye and the material."

With BLK, Aizawa is embarking on another new endeavor: to transform clothing into a communication tool between brands and users, and between people.

"All BLK products have information printed on the back lining, such as the material, composition, and pattern data. When you buy food, everyone is interested in information about the producer and production background, right? In the same way, we wanted to pack information into our products that could serve as a communication tool between us and our customers. There's also the fun of solving the puzzle to figure out which parts are used in which areas."

This new initiative is said to be rooted in Mr. Aizawa's own thoughts on sustainability, which has become the new norm in the fashion industry.

"If it's just a cool black garment, it might be consumed and then forgotten. But I thought that if people have knowledge about the product, that knowledge could accumulate as affection. If, as a result, it can be cherished and worn for a long time, then I think it can be considered sustainable clothing."

I don't like over-explaining things (laughs), but the important thing is how much information we can provide. It's definitely better if the "feelings" we want to convey to our customers are clearly expressed in the form of the box, shopping bag, and sub-buttons. I think that paying attention to seemingly insignificant details is what will be required in the coming era."

BLK's tops don't feature existing patterns like sets or raglan sleeves. Each piece utilizes a unique pattern with generous shoulders and flowing lines that don't restrict arm movement, resulting in exceptional range of motion and comfort. This would be perfect for cycling, driving, or working on a computer. The pants also featured innovative patterns, some without visible side seams or armpit seams.

"By wearing black clothing with a unique or even quirky design, I'm balancing my creative challenge with the functional reality of it all. I have a strong desire to break the standard and elevate it into technical wear."

The accumulation of "knowledge of layering black" will undoubtedly deepen and expand with each passing season. The products, always created with the same concept, complement each other perfectly, and there is plenty of room for personalization depending on the wearer. A truly remarkable "spin-off" label has emerged that steadily evolves your wardrobe with each new item, while continuously increasing its precision and perfection. Its full scope will be revealed at the Isetan Men's pop-up store, ahead of the rest of the world.

Photo: Yutaro Tagawa
Text: Junya Hasegawa

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＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.