2020.10.28 update

[Interview] A unique set-up that no one else will have. The designer of <Sabai> thoroughly explains the new custom-made outfit.


Saby, which held a pop-up shop on the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store in July to take orders for pants, will be holding another limited-time pop-up event starting October 31st (Saturday). They will be taking orders for jackets specially made for this event, as well as a denim series that is a joint project between Osaka select shop "rroomm" and Isetan.

This is our second interview with SABAI designer Mr. Hashimoto. In this Q&A format, we asked him about the brand, the response to our previous interview, his thoughts on this event, and his commitment to the new collection. Please enjoy this interview along with the special looks created in collaboration with SABAI and the Men's Creators section on the 2nd floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building which were specially shot for this event.



■PROFILE■


Tetsuya Hashimoto


Designer of 〈saby/サバイ〉. A former designer of 〈bukht/ブフト〉, he became independent last year and launched his own brand 〈saby/サバイ〉 this spring. The collection expresses the Japanese aesthetic sense that finds profound richness in the new character and tranquility that comes from aging.


We also encourage you to read the interview we conducted with Mr. Hashimoto during the previous event, where we asked him in-depth about the "unique Japanese sensibility" that he cherishes and which forms the foundation of his brand.
Related Article ► [Interview] SABAI designer explains wide pants inspired by "hakama"


  1. What is the sensational new brand <saby>?
  2. This time, Isetan's theme was "exciting." Setup for a joint project by three companies.
  3. Mr. Hashimoto explains: What items will be featured in the highly anticipated second POPUP?
  4. lastly···

What is the sensational new brand <saby>?


--Could you tell us about your brand concept again?

"Our concept is to create things that allow people to rediscover the Japanese sense of beauty and sensibility that they may have forgotten."

—Could you tell us about the themes for the Fall/Winter 2020 and Spring/Summer 2021 collections?
"The theme for Fall/Winter 2020 was 'stem,' meaning the trunk of a tree, and we created a collection that conveys the core of the brand. For Spring/Summer 2120, the theme was 'day by day,' meaning everyday life, and we created high-quality daily wear that will broaden the brand's scope."

—What are your roots and what are you conscious of?

"As I mentioned in the previous interview , my focus in men's fashion is on traditional styles and the essence of thought. I'm always conscious of taking the Japanese aesthetic of spontaneous deliberateness and interpreting it in a modern way. Also, I want to create a brand with a wide range that can link with various cultures, without being confined to the axis of fashion."


This time, Isetan's theme was "exciting." Setup for a joint project by three companies.

--What was the response to the last event (a pop-up shop held at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store in July of this year)?
"It's unusual for a department store to pick up a brand that's just been launched and is relatively unknown. The customers who saw it, and everyone involved with the brand, seemed to really enjoy it."

—What were your thoughts after the last event?

"I believe we were able to carefully communicate one thing, rather than just making a superficial effort. By continuing these kinds of initiatives on an ongoing basis, rather than just as a one-off, we were able to meet new customers and deepen our connection with the customers who support our brand on a regular basis."

—What is the theme of this pop-up event?
"The theme, simply put, is excitement. (laughs) Isetan gave us the task of creating a set of SABAI's Tuck Baggy pants, so Isetan, rroomm/room, and SABAI worked together on this project."

"rroomm/Room" is a select shop in Umeda, Osaka.
Left) Manager Takuhiro Yasuda, Right) This season's items from <Sabai> displayed in the "Room" store.


—What was the reason for collaborating with the three companies on this project
?
"Room has been carrying our products since the launch of SABAI, and they are one of the stores that have a good understanding of the brand and convey its appeal to many customers. We asked them to participate because we believe that working with Room and their manager, Yasuda, who have a better understanding of what's happening on the ground, will improve the quality of our items."

That's the main reason, but I was also simply excited about the idea of a department store and an independent shop working together on something. In a way, it felt like a survival project. (laughs) I was talking with the Isetan buyer team about how we wanted to create a project that would create a chemical reaction between the three companies, so that everyone, whether they knew each other or not, would be satisfied.


—Could you tell us what the highlights of this event are?

"The Tuck Baggy pants were designed with inspiration from hakama (traditional Japanese trousers), and the top is basically a long version of a samue (traditional Japanese work clothing) called a hangi, but that wouldn't be very creative. I always thought of it as a set-up = pants + jacket, so I thought about what kind of jacket would suit the atmosphere of the <Sabai> Tuck Baggy pants? It was quite a challenge, but I think I managed to express it in a good way."


Mr. Hashimoto explains: What items will be featured in the highly anticipated second POPUP?

This pop-up store will feature a jacket to complement the classic pleated baggy jeans that men's creators have been requesting, a denim set-up available exclusively at ISETAN MEN'S and "Room" stores, and a limited quantity of leather pants.


JACKETS&TUCK BAGGY HARD TWISTED YARN CLOTH


1B JACKETS "HARD TWISTED YARN CLOTH" ¥44,000 * View made-to-order items

TUCK BAGGY "HARD TWISTED YARN CLOTH" ¥26,400 * View made-to-order items
□Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store / Sales scheduled to begin at 10:00 AM on Saturday, October 31st. *This product can be tried on only during the event period at the Men's Creators section on the 2nd floor of the Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building .


— Please tell us about the special features of the tucked baggy pants, which are synonymous with SABAI.
"As I mentioned in the previous interview, simply put, it's the strength of our sewing. Our factory is skilled at sewing casual items like denim. By using that factory to create dressier items like trousers, we're able to create a unique look."

—What were your thoughts when Isetan asked you to create a jacket for them?
"I've always wanted to create something like this, but I just couldn't come up with the idea. I'm grateful to Isetan for giving me the push I needed."

—What influenced you or what were your inspirations when creating the album cover?
"We focused on making the most of the unique feel of the Tuck Buggy."

—Could you tell us about your particular approach to patterns?
"We worked closely with the pattern maker to minimize the number of parts and seams, and to create a beautiful silhouette using only darts."

—Could you tell us about the attention to detail?
"Like with the Tuck Buggy, I think it's about subtracting details and finding the right balance."

—What are the characteristics of this material?
"These fabrics are made domestically and represent the culmination of Japan's proud technology, resulting in a high-quality product. 'HARD TWISTED YARN CLOTH' uses highly twisted yarn, and despite using thick 20/2 cotton double-ply yarn, it has an amazing drape."

—Could you tell us how to enjoy this setup?
"The jacket has a slightly longer length, giving it a relaxed, coverall-like feel, so you can wear it casually, or depending on how you coordinate it, you can create a suit-like look. Its versatile design allows for a variety of styling options. For those who want to have even more fun, I recommend checking out the denim set-up I'll introduce next."


TUCK BAGGY 11.5oz ICE BLUE/YELLOW DENIM


(Left) 1B JACKETS "11.5oz ICE BLUE DENIM" ¥44,000 * See made-to-order items
TUCK BAGGY "11.5oz ICE BLUE DENIM" ¥26,400 * View made-to-order items
□Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store / Sales scheduled to begin at 10:00 AM on Saturday, October 31st. *This product can be tried on only during the event period at the Men's Creators section on the 2nd floor of the Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building .


(Right) TUCK BAGGY "11.5oz YELLOW DENIM" *Sold only at "LOOM"


—What are the advantages of denim material?
"It's a medium-weight fabric at 11.5 oz, but it's woven with loosely twisted yarn, making it very comfortable to wear. Above all, the use of different colored threads for the warp and weft gives it a distinctive, deep color."

—What are the characteristics of this material?
"Like the 'HARD TWISTED YARN CLOTH,' this material is also made in Japan, and it boasts an excellent balance between its soft texture due to the loose twist and its reassuringly substantial feel."

—How do you see the difference in style between this and the HARD TWISTED YARN CLOTH setup?
"The highly twisted cotton fabric has a beautiful drape similar to wool, giving it elements of a dressy fabric, while the denim fabric was chosen for its beautiful color while maintaining a casual feel, so I think it's well-balanced."

1B JACKETS “11.5oz ICE BLUE DENIM”・TUCK BAGGY “11.5oz ICE BLUE DENIM”
*Available only at Mitsukoshi Isetan. *This item can be tried on only during the event period at the Men's Creators section on the 2nd floor of the Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building .


—What are the key points when styling this outfit?
"You could also try pairing it with a vintage printed T-shirt as an inner layer for a more casual look. Don't feel obligated to wear the whole set; I encourage you to try the pants on their own first."

—What kind of style do you think is in line with this season's trends?
"Wearing a high-neck or turtleneck as an inner layer is a great way to feel like it."


PANTS Washable synthetic lamb skin


SUPER BIG PANTS "Washable synthetic lamb skin" ¥30,800 *Limited quantity item. View details.
□Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store / Sales scheduled to begin at 10:00 AM on Saturday, October 31st.

lastly···

—What message do you want to convey through these items?
"It's not a typical tailor's job, but rather a casual sewing style. However, the way they've managed to create such a captivating piece using fabric and pattern is a testament to the meticulousness unique to Japanese craftsmanship. The price point, which is something you wouldn't find at a tailor, is also a major draw."

—What kind of clothes would you like to create in the future?
"Well... Rather than creating clothes with a different design or collection concept each time, I want to create highly refined designs and items based on what I value."

—What are your thoughts on this series?
"I feel pressure to keep improving it with each installment, but this time too, it turned out great, and I really enjoyed working on it. Please look forward to the next one!"

View the 〈saby/サバイ〉 product list at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.

Event Information
<Sabai> Pop-up
  • Venue: Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store
Model: Gabi (Waste Management Inc.)
Photograph: TAGAWA YUTARO (CEKAI)/ISETAN MEN'S net
Text: ISETAN MEN'S net

*All prices include tax.
*For inquiries about the featured items, you can also contact the Creators section on the 2nd floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building via LINE. Please feel free to contact us with any questions. → Add us as a friend here

For inquiries, please contact: Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 2nd Floor, Men's Creators, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
For inquiries via email, please click here.