The appeal of jeans is endless. Originally work clothes for miners on the American West Coast in the 19th century, jeans became a symbol of youth and rebellion in the 20th century, and have become a staple fashion item. Originally, denim referred to the fabric itself, and jeans referred to pants made from denim fabric. Now, jeans are simply called denim, and they have become a genderless item that transcends trends, age, and nationality, never going out of style. Denim is incorporated into everything from street casual to designer fashion, and is even used in suits and wedding dresses.

Denim can be styled in countless ways, and even established brands are constantly being updated to keep up with the times. In fact, even old denim is highly sought after as vintage pieces, which is unique to denim. So, from among the many denim options available, Taisuke Asano, Assistant Merchandiser at Men's Contemporary on the 6th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , has picked out five pairs of denim that you should be wearing right now. These selections are based on his own personal experience of wearing them, so they should serve as a guide when choosing your next pair of denim.

I. DENHAM: The number one best-selling denim with excellent processing and silhouette.

Founded in 2008 in Amsterdam, Netherlands by denim craftsman Jason Denham, Denham is renowned for its realistic aging and patina processing techniques.

"Although the brand has a short history, it is currently one of the most dynamic denim brands. Among them, the MADE IN JAPAN DENIM is the brand's top-of-the-line collection and enjoys extremely high popularity in Japan. There is a wide variety of styles, from dark washes to heavily washed models, and the distressing is done by hand by craftsmen one by one, so no two pieces are exactly alike. Everything is a once-in-a-lifetime encounter. It is a collection of masterpieces that resonate with Denham's deep love for denim and the sensibilities of Japanese craftsmen who are particular about their work," says Asano.

The icon for Denham is a pair of scissors.

"The reason we use the essential tools of a tailor as a symbol is because founder Jason Denham's career began in the workshop of designer Joe Casely-Hayford, who studied on Savile Row. I feel that the silhouette and fit reflect the tailoring techniques that are derived from tailoring," says Asano.
The brand's signature model, "RAZOR," features a moderately slim fit that gradually tapers from the hips down.

"I understood why this is the number one most popular denim brand right now after trying them on. The distressed finish is very striking, but the silhouette is actually very beautiful. It really gives off that authentic denim feel, it's comfortable to wear, and you can feel the spirit of someone who has truly dedicated themselves to denim, not just the design," says Asano.

II. <REPLAY> An active Paris Saint-Germain model

Replay, an Italian casual brand with a strong denim presence since the 1980s, has fans all over the world and remains at the forefront of Italian premium denim. Last year, it made headlines when it signed an official denim partnership agreement with Paris Saint-Germain.

"The news that Replay, which had previously used Neymar as its ambassador, had officially collaborated with the team caused a stir around the world, and we were able to hold a pop-up event at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . The brand's icon is its incredibly stretchy Hyperflex stretch denim, but in recent years it has evolved even further with the more sustainable Hyperflex Bio and the even more stretchy Hyperflex Plus," says Asano.

This elasticity is what makes Replay's Hyperflex Stretch Denim so special.

"Stretch denim, now a staple, is something this brand has been working on since its founding, making them pioneers in the field. They are also actively developing the latest stretch denim, but the triangular logo on the pocket edge has remained unchanged since the 1980s, so I think many older people are familiar with it," says Asano.


These light blue washed denim jeans are characterized by their lightness and ease of movement, even when worn in a tight fit.

"The highly elastic Hyperflex stretch material feels incredibly comfortable and easy to move in, almost like it's clinging to your body. This wallet cord is a symbol of Paris Saint-Germain. I used to play futsal, but I feel like I could easily play soccer in these," says Asano.

III. <DIESEL> Leg-lengthening denim jeans favored by repeat customers

Founded in 1978 by Renzo Rosso and Adriano Goldschmied, the fashion brand established a solid position when it began focusing on denim in 1985. In the 1990s, it leveraged that position to become a leading collection brand.

"While its position as an Italian denim brand is unshakeable, it has also launched Diesel Black Gold, and is now known more as a luxury fashion house than just a denim brand. Perhaps the brand's greatest achievement is proposing a new sporty and modern style by branding its active-movement denim made from stretch denim material as jogger jeans. The strong distressing and fading give it a masculine feel, and the processing techniques used to create a heavily faded look also give it a sense of originality," says Asano.

The combination of stretchy denim and heavy distressing and damage processing is what defines Diesel.

"Diesel is a brand with a large number of repeat customers who say they only wear Diesel denim. It's fair to say that Diesel established the equation of Italian denim = stretch. The dark indigo blue color also gives it a masculine impression that you won't find anywhere else," (Asano).

The silhouette and heavy distressing, typical of Italian denim, exude a masculine charm.

"The fabric has a special weave, so it feels soft against the skin. As it's said to have a visual effect of making your legs look longer and slimmer, the silhouette when you wear them is also exceptionally beautiful. The hem is about 15cm wide, so it gives a very skinny impression, but as the name 'Jog' suggests, it's comfortable enough to wear for a run, and it's easy to see why there are so many repeat customers," says Asano.

IV. <APC> French denim that you can enjoy "breaking in".

As a French casual brand, A.P.C. is popular with both men and women for its simple and comfortable collections. Its denim is highly regarded not only among the brand's fans but also among core denim enthusiasts.

"They have shops in Daikanyama and Harajuku, and their elegant appearance makes them a stylish brand overall. But these jeans are far more impressive than they look. The rigid model fades the more you wear them, developing a unique character that's all your own. In this age of processed denim, you can experience the joy of 'nurturing' your jeans, something that's often forgotten. The silhouette is based on a straight cut with a taper from the knee down, making them easy for anyone to wear, and with French casual style trending now, they're becoming popular again," says Asano.

These minimalist jeans eliminate the brand tags and leather patches that are typically found on denim.

"There are no design features to speak of, but the one and only thing that makes A.P.C. denim unique is that it comes with washing instructions. Of the four washing methods, the most advanced is to soak it in seawater and then rub it repeatedly on the sand. The instructions are written in four languages," says Asano.
These slim-straight jeans, with their versatile design, are suitable for people of all ages and genders. The deep color of the rigid denim looks chic at first, but as it fades, it would suit a more casual street style.

"This model is called the 'Petit New Standard,' and it's slightly slimmer and higher-waisted than the New Standard. I recommend pairing it with a jacket and button-down shirt, or with just a white T-shirt or knit sweater for a normcore look," says Asano.

V. Wear the original and classic LEVI'S® jeans.

The quintessential and original. The Levi's 501®, a flagship model that has shaped the history of denim, was born in 1890 with the establishment of lot numbers. The 1947 model pictured (above) is the first model to feature the "arcuate stitch," which was the first to be used to produce jeans with two needles.

"These 501®XX jeans are based on the 1947 model, commonly known as the '47 model. The silhouette is authentic American denim, but it has a slightly slimmer, more modern fit. They are a bright indigo blue with a one-wash finish, but they have been treated to suppress surface fuzz, giving them a soft feel while retaining the look of rigid denim. In today's trendy American traditional style, I think the 501® is the only denim that can be worn with a navy blazer," says Asano.

The reason why typical denim back pockets have stitching patterns is because they are modeled after Levi's' "arcuate stitching." The two-horse patch on the back of the waistband is famously made of paper, but until the 1950s, it was actually made of leather.

"This is a reproduction model from that era, so it has a leather patch attached. The red tab has 'LEVIS' and the letter 'E' in all caps, which is familiar to denim fans," says Asano.


In today's world where slim and tapered silhouettes are the mainstream for bottoms, this straight silhouette feels refreshingly new. With a good amount of width below the knee, this is the quintessential denim style.

"Even though they're not stretch denim, these jeans are comfortable to wear without any stress. The denim silhouette goes well with any outfit, but they're especially great with a navy blazer. I think a navy blazer, white T-shirt, and Levi's jeans is actually quite fashionable and French-inspired right now," says Asano.

Photograph: Yuichi Tajima
Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda

＊All prices include tax.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

For inquiries, please contact: Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6th Floor (Men's Contemporary); Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 7th Floor (Men's Authentic).
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