Since 2019, customer interest has rapidly shifted from trends to more essential items. This reflects a desire to "use high-quality items for a long time." Therefore, we considered how to add the value needed today to the so-called classic shoes of each shoe brand. While this might simply mean creating new classics, we deliberately approached the project with the perspective of evolving the values that each company considers its "classic" style, and commissioned special edition models accordingly. (Tomoyasu Tabata, Men's Shoe Buyer Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F)

1. EDWARD GREEN

Elegant appeal or the practicality of city shoes?

One of the models that symbolizes the theme of this year's shoe exhibition's special order shoes—an update of a classic—is the "GLADSTONE," a design previously used in the top drawer and featuring the square-toe last No. 888. "For those who already own Chelsea boots, this is a new classic that is more formal and elegant. I feel that the 888 last fits the instep well and is well suited to Japanese feet," says buyer Tabata. Models featuring the brand's unique rubber sole "R-1" are also available.

2. GAZIANO & GIRLING

With a more authentic approach.

Adelaide's semi-brogue "ST. JAMES," which traditionally used an elegant square-toe last, has been specially commissioned using the round-toe GG06 last, which has been in use since the brand's founding. For the loafers, which feature the brand's iconic twist strap detail, the "AVIGNON" model, with its visible stitching on the moc toe section, was deliberately chosen instead of the "ANTIBES" model with its shadow skin stitching.

3. Crockett & Jones

Adapting to changing work styles.

"Our customers' work styles have changed. They're looking for leather shoes that are easy to pair with jeans or blazers, rather than suits, and that are also easy to put on and take off," says buyer Tabata. The lineup includes models that reflect the buyer's comments. Dainite soles have been chosen for the easy-to-wear ankle-length Chelsea boots and round-toe cordovan chukka boots.

4. Church's

Cordovan models are available again this time.

The bespoke models using shell cordovan from Horween Leather Company, which were a big hit at last year's shoe exhibition, are making a comeback this year. This year, classic models such as "Consul," "Diplomat," and "Westbury" are combined with cordovan using the No. 73 last. "The 73 last evokes Church's tradition, but I feel that its silhouette has a rather modern appeal," says buyer Tabata. They have an appeal that makes them suitable not only for tailored wear such as suits and jackets, but also for deliberately pairing with casual wear.

5. Enzo Bonafè

A U-tip shoe from Norwegian, with a distinctly Italian feel.

"The brand's signature item is the BERING, a U-tip shoe made using the Norwegian welt construction method. This time, the upper uses Horween cordovan with an embossed 'Russian Hatch' pattern, giving it a more rugged feel. On the other hand, the version using black calfskin features a Vibram tank sole to add volume and express a different kind of appeal," says buyer Tabata. In addition, another staple of the brand is the bit loafer.

6. Le Yucca's

Shoes where originality and craftsmanship meet.

This spring/summer season, Isetan Men's began carrying the brand of Italian-based shoe designer Yuka Murase. For the theme of evolving work styles, Murase chose a U-tip bootie with a low topline. It possesses a charming presence that somehow evokes comfort shoes. Made in Enzo Bonafe's workshop, it incorporates handcrafted details throughout.




The use of leather is reminiscent of Mr. Behmel's work.

This brand is based in Florence, Italy, and was founded by a shoemaker of the same name. After Mr. Bemer's death, his apprentices took over the workshop. This time, we've selected "Plain Derby" and "Chukka Boots" from the archive models of the 1990s. The upper is made of horsehide leather, and the addition of a rubber sole gives them a casual finish.

8. CARMINA

We offer shoes that are exclusively black.

This brand is made by a shoe manufacturer in Mallorca, Spain. They have a reputation for making sturdy shoes, mainly using the Goodyear welt construction method. This time, they are offering a lineup centered on black, which is quite different from the brand's previous image. "We are introducing black as a new standard color. And to suit modern lifestyles, we have chosen suede uppers that are easy to maintain and natural rubber soles," explains buyer Tabata.

9. BARKER

Trendy shoes inspired by our archives.

This is a long-established shoe manufacturer from Northamptonshire, England. This time, they have created a shoe based on a postman shoe, inspired by their archives. It features a thick, lightweight rubber sole made of Vibram's "Morflex" and uses Chromexcel leather from Horween Leather Company in the USA, giving it the toughness of a work shoe.

10. Tricker's

Adding a modern touch to classic shoes.

This shoe is a modern take on the brand's classic country shoe model, "Burton," reimagined as a new staple. The upper is made from Horween's Chromexcel leather, and the Ridgeway sole provides both practicality and a distinctive, thick-soled look. Interestingly, it also has a somewhat work shoe-like feel.

11. madras

Expressing a unique, alluring quality.

"While pursuing the beautiful colors and flowing silhouettes that this brand inherently possesses, we have also incorporated the functionality of Gore-Tex, another characteristic of the brand. I like that there is a somewhat sensual atmosphere to it," says buyer Tabata. The brand is well-known for its meticulous finishing work, including handcrafted details such as coloring and antique processing. In addition, this model incorporates Gore-Tex, ensuring comfortable wear even in summer or rainy weather.

12. Otsuka

Bringing classic style to modern footwear.

Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd. is one of Japan's leading and oldest shoe manufacturers. Buyer Tabata planned a special order shoe that perfectly represents the company. "We aimed to create a shoe that is a modified version of a model from 1872. For the typical buttoned boots (grandpa boots), we added a zipper on the inside to make them easier to put on and take off," says buyer Tabata. They also offer shoes that embody what it would be like if Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd., which has long handled brands such as Grenson, were to make authentic country boots.

13. Alden

Making longwing boots easier to wear.

The long wingtip is a representative style of American shoes, not just for this brand. The upper is made of Horween's shell cordovan, and the sole is made of crepe, resulting in a shoe with a somewhat hybrid, and therefore modern, presence. The last used is Alden's classic Barrie last.

14. SANDERS

Slip-on mudguards.

This long-established British shoe manufacturer also produces footwear for the military. They are known for their chukka boots with a "mudguard" that wraps crepe around the side of the sole, but this time they have released a slip-on version that also uses the mudguard. It has a unique presence, combining the ease of a house shoe with the toughness that makes it resistant to rain and other elements.

15. Berwick 1707

The second installment of our popular cordovan leather project.

This brand, from a shoe manufacturer in Almansa, Spain, has been gaining popularity in recent years. This time, it's the second installment of the "Cordovan Collection," which was well-received when it launched at Isetan Men's. The upper is made of cordovan leather from Argentina, and the sole uses oak bark from Rendenbach, Germany, which is processed in-house from the leather bends. It is carefully made using the Goodyear welted construction method.

Photograph: Takao Ohta
Text: Yukihiro Sugawara