saby is a new brand launched by designer Tetsuya Hashimoto in the Spring/Summer 2020 season. Ahead of a limited-time pop-up shop held at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store from 10:00 AM on Thursday, July 23rd to Wednesday, July 29th, Mitsukoshi Isetan staff spoke directly with Mr. Hashimoto about the brand's background and the items being offered. Beneath the surface lies the "unique Japanese sensibility" that Mr. Hashimoto has cherished.

Giving form to the Japanese sensibility that is akin to "wabi-sabi"

Matsuoka : SABAI started in the Spring/Summer 2020 season. What was the inspiration behind it?

Hashimoto : Originally, when we were exploring ways to collaborate with a factory that we had a long-standing relationship with, the starting point was the idea of how we could directly convey the factory's strengths to our customers.

That's a Matsuoka- style D to C (director to consumer) approach. What were the specialties of that factory?

Hashimoto: It's about "people."

Matsuoka ... "Person"?

Hashimoto : Yes! The president and all the craftsmen are very kind and do their work meticulously.

Matsuoka : I see...

I don't think people will understand what I mean (laughs). The people who make the clothes don't really understand what's going on with the wearers, do they?

I can learn about designer Matsuoka 's thoughts and feelings by talking to him directly through work or through the media.

Hashimoto: That's right. In fashion, it's always the designers who are in the spotlight, and people don't really think about those behind the scenes—the people who actually cut and sew the fabric, or even the people who make the fabric, spin the yarn, and dye it. I wanted to create a brand where the designer's role is to convey the feelings of those people to the people who wear the clothes.

Matsuoka , I'm starting to understand.

What does the brand name Matsuoka Saby mean?

Hashimoto: It's pronounced "Sabai," but if you read it as it is in English, it sounds like "Sabi(i)." It's exactly the "Sabi" from "Wabi-Sabi."

Matsuoka speaks Japanese, doesn't he?

The Hashimoto brand tag also has "Sabai" written in katakana.

Matsuoka : Oh, it says "Sabai" on this. I think there was a cap with this design, right?

You might not be able to read it at first glance, but it's written in katakana. I was subtly trying to make that clear.

I had a feeling that Matsuoka 's graphic design was something else, but the use of katakana gives it a very Japanese feel, and it has a great charm. I wonder if this is what they mean by wabi-sabi.

Hashimoto: It's often thought that the Japanese sense of "wabi-sabi" is difficult for foreigners to understand, but there are people who do understand it. For example, 'WET magazine,' which is also the work of the author of this book on wabi-sabi, Leonard Koren, is themed around Japanese baths, and he expresses his work using baths as a motif.

Matsuoka Western-style houses don't have Japanese-style baths, so I'm sure it's quite a surprise.

Hashimoto: That's right. I think it's a very unusual culture for them. But when they express it in their work, they don't just depict the bath itself, but rather skillfully express the image of water that derives from it, their lifestyle, and so on. When I thought about why that is, I realized that they have properly digested and sublimated the culture of bathing in their own way. I thought it was strange how they could make such a different culture their own, but when I thought about it, I realized that this is similar to how we Japanese people feel about Western clothing.

Matsuoka: Clothing styles differ from country to country, and there's something interesting about fashion in incorporating those different styles.

Hashimoto: My first encounter with fashion was at a vintage clothing store in Machida, not far from my hometown. I loved the American casual vintage clothes I found there, and I started buying them up until I became a designer. I think that's similar to how an artist might become interested in the Japanese culture of bathing and turn it into their own artwork.

Matsuoka : That's true, for Hashimoto-san, clothes are works of art.

Because it's Hashimoto , I want to express what Japanese people think about clothing, and the concept of Sabai is to convey the aesthetic sense that Japanese people cherish, the connections between people, and the invisible feelings and depths that are hidden from view.

Matsuoka: So that connects to what you were saying earlier about your feelings towards the factory, right?

The Hashimoto factory is located in Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture. Because of the local area's expertise in sewing thick fabrics like denim, we're focusing our brand's lineup primarily on bottoms. These items were designed within that environment.

Matsuoka, these wide-leg pants, right?

Minoru Hashimoto: These pants are actually inspired by "hakama" (traditional Japanese trousers).

Matsuoka wide-leg pants are currently popular among young people, but these wide-leg pants, based on hakama (traditional Japanese trousers), are simple yet convey a sense of Japanese aesthetics and attention to detail.

Even though I say that, I don't intend to emphasize the "hakama" aspect too much. However, I think you can feel the hakama-like quality in the way the deep pleats are made and the way the waist stands up by attaching the belt loops low.

These pants embody the meticulous calculations that Mr. Matsuoka and Mr. Hashimoto have put into them.

Hashimoto kimonos are completely different from Western clothing. Kimonos are worn by wrapping them around the body, while jackets and shirts are fastened with buttons and sweaters are pulled over the head. But the only exception is the "hakama," which is the same shape as "pants" and is worn by putting your legs through it.

Matsuoka: Hearing that kind of story changes my perspective on these pants.

Hashimoto : I'm not a very talkative person myself, so I hope that the person who wears these pants will feel free to express themselves through them.

Sabai pants inspired by "hakama"

Matsuoka: This time, the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store is featuring Sabai pants. Could you tell us about each of them?

TUCK BAGGY 11.5oz ICE BLUE DENIME - LIMITED -

Hashimoto 's original denim pants are available in limited quantities. Although they are made from 11.5oz denim, the use of loosely twisted yarn gives them a surprisingly light feel for denim.
Matsuoka's dress pants seem to strike a good balance between dress pants and casual pants.

Hashimoto: This texture is unique to the Bingo region, which is also a production area for Japanese denim that is highly regarded worldwide. It has a double-faced design with off-white and ice blue. Paying attention to details that aren't visible is also very Japanese, I think.

Matsuoka: These white denim jeans have a slightly different look than regular white denim.

TUCK BAGGY HARD TWISTED YARN CLOTH - LIMITED COL -

Matsuoka, this is the same model, right? What material is it made of?

Hashimoto: Japan's textile technology is amazing. Even though it's cotton, they use highly twisted yarn, so it has a wool-like feel, right?

Matsuoka : It's soft and drapes beautifully. Plus, it has an elegant sheen, giving these casual pants a sophisticated, grown-up feel.

Hashimoto: This material uses the same pattern as the white denim we showed earlier, but it will be available in three colors: black, white, and camel, and will be sold by order.

Matsuoka: These are the pants you prepared for us today. They were made with the image of hakama in mind, so the hem is wide, but surprisingly, it balances perfectly with the shoes. The cut-off style is also a unique SABAI touch and shows attention to detail.

BIG CHINO Dickies x Saby

Matsuoka , one more thing, are these Dickies pants?

Hashimoto : Yes, I wondered what would happen if we commissioned Dickies, a staple of American casual wear, to take SABAI's classic big denim style and make it happen, so I brought it to life.

Matsuoka , these pants are unusual. They don't have side seams.

Hashimoto : Oh, did you notice? Normally, pants are made from four panels, and the leg section is made by sewing together two pieces. These pants are made by folding a single piece of fabric and sewing it together in the middle.

Matsuoka 's outfit doesn't have a waistband or a belt.

By creating a hip line similar to that of Hashimoto trousers through the pattern, we've incorporated dressy elements into a casual material. By making the hip area more compact, the back also looks neat and streamlined.

Matsuoka's minimalist approach to manufacturing, such as eliminating side seams and creating a one-piece waistline, is innovative and groundbreaking in the world of casual wear.

Hashimoto: Thank you. I think Japanese people are good at the aesthetics of subtraction rather than adding things in a cluttered way.

Matsuoka: I think this collection is more than just a trendy pair of wide-leg pants; it has a serene sensibility, or rather, you can feel a certain attitude towards craftsmanship in it.

Hashimoto: Personally, I prefer basic and simple clothes that have a distinctive brand identity, rather than trendy or mass-produced items.

Matsuoka : During the recent period of self-isolation, I was tidying up my house and realized that I, too, have long loved simple clothes that convey the designer's passion. I hope that Hashimoto's feelings will reach many people.

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